I'm not familiar with the Knopf (just taken a look at the website), so couldn't comment on fit, but some interesting details.
John will respond to e-mail (or PM through VLJF) if you want to communicate directly.
Have you considered the Dubow contracts? John has really nailed these well too.
The Doni works well on a longer torso/taller wearer (although I had one and I'm only 5'8") and is very comfortable, but goat is the only option from John. John Jeter (CBI) has a couple of GW Werbers and these look great, especially the '36 with its detailing. The HH is lighter in colour (period...
Joel, I'm a big fan of the two early Perry contracts (less enamoured with the 1756), but I wouldn't call it fitted as a pattern. It's generally quite short and boxy (as an original), which is partly why it works for me. A different matter if you're having it tailored of course, but if you're...
Until last year, I had a similarly sized Links Irvin (posted elsewhere on this site, http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35313-ALL-ORIGINAL-Irvin-RAF-type-Jackets-Loving-that-Wolf-in-sheeps-clothing!/page61&highlight=dr+H+links+irvin), but had no problems with tight shoulders.
It was a...
I've also owned multiples of the Perry in horse (or at least I'd thought so until Gary's book was published...) and goat.
Perry Sportswear 23377 (size 44)
Weight = 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz)
Shoulder width = 47.5 cm
Pit-to-pit = 59 cm
Front length = 58 cm
Back length = 67 cm (including collar stand)...
There is a Bill Kelso Dubow 1755 A-2 for sale in seal sz44 on the VLJF currently. $625 Posted in lower 48 (not my jacket).
The 44 measures as follows:
Pit to pit 23.5"
Top of shoulders across back is 18"
Top of sleeve to end of knit is 25.5"
Bottom of collar down back to bottom of knit...
John is a very skilled jacket maker and I encourage you to check out his wares in Seattle. If I were in the US and dealing in $ I'd buy from him more often.
Past experience has shown me that I need to lose around an inch from the sleeves of a prototype/test jacket to make them sit right.
There's a telling passage in Gary Eastman's new book on the A-2, in which he shows original source material detailing the shortcomings of capeskin and putting the case for more robust materials (initially horsehide, then latterly goatskin and steerhide) to be used in the construction of the A-2...
Yes, Baron, John's jackets are usually tailored to your dimensions/taste (mine is a test jacket), but I'm a little longer in the torso/short in the leg so the pattern sits a little higher on me.
The cape is the one aspect of the jacket that I'd change Joel (in an ideal world) as I was also very skeptical when I handled the samples.
It's better when made up and lined and doesn't feel frail, but is inferior to the thicker 2008/2009 cape that John used, although thicker than the Italian...
Yes, typically down with a couple of buttons undone, although the knit it is thick enough to sit upright and can be fastened in cold/wet weather. The collar knit was originally designed to be a snug fit in a draughty open cockpit, but on the ground was worn with uniform/shirt/tie.
Thanks Fanch - that's John in the images so the fit of the test jacket is 100%.
For me it's 95% (I need to have the sleeves tailored slightly to fit my shorter arms), but otherwise it fits equally well.
This is the fourth GW A-1 jacket that I've owned (along with three ELC A-1s) and, although...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.