I pretty much agree with you but I think the problem is the #5 Talon is seen as di rigueur by a lot of repro buyers (which is why the JP brands also use it for all 50s designs even though all of these companies are using heavier leather than the originals.)
Aero actually tried to switch to...
FWIW when I was in front of Alan and Damon trying on a jacket with that kind of bunching in the back, which is more or less accepted on TFL for that sort of gripped front fit, they said it doesn't look good or fit right. (I'd thought it looked fine, but I trust them as the experts; they get it...
If it was just about the one piece back, we'd see the other one piece back Schotts of this configuration hang like this. They don't.
Look at Tony or Guppy's 689H.
When I was at the Schott factory, I met and befriended a guy who was short with a 32 or 34 inch chest. He couldn't find anything marked in his size, so I handed him a couple of Schott Japan (I could tell by the label) jackets in size 38.
They were a tight fit. :D
Why are so many people jumping ahead and buying Japanese market jackets? They pretty much never fit properly (or at least according to the tag that they're marked). I think this is at least a size too small.
You'd be well served by one of the mainline equivalents.
Because larger zippers are ahistorical for this kind of jacket and Aero takes that side of things very seriously. It's true that jackets of that time period were usually not made in heavy leather, but if you choose the Universal it will be more than strong enough.
They won't give you a bigger zipper, which you already know, so why demand that and antagonise them?
Just ask them to use the Universal zipper, which won't have any issues.
The fundamental thing is this. Original #5 zippers were simply the zippers of the time, of the highest "tech" of the...
They didn't start it at all, but that post is from 6 years ago in fairness when a lot of things seemed somewhat shrouded in mystery.
The repro leather stuff in Japan was set off by what Aero (then Transatlantic Clothing) was doing in the 80s; something like 90% of their sales were direct to...
Are they a forum sponsor?
If you like that sort of casual shirt, I got Hawaiian shirts from the same supplier used on Magnum PI for like $50 a pop, made in Hawaii, from a store there online.
EDIT: Looks like they're $60 now. Still a great value and great product.
A note of advice. I downsized...
The finishing touches that Don is talking about = made to measure.
Making a pattern for the customer/product = bespoke/custom.
Either way Johnson will get you what you need.
Yes, that's what I was referring to. And since you speak Japanese and go there often, you'll have access to a wider selection. (Some of these tailors have English-speaking assistants or speak English themselves, but many don't. And while some make trips to Hong Kong and other places in Asia for...
I would say they’re less “fancy” perhaps than the current RMC but I think they’re better in every other respect, chiefly patterning.
That said I would urge you even as an Asian-American (speaking as one myself) to not assume that the Japanese brands patterns are inherently better for an Asian...
Can't speak to either brand because the guy is in Japan.
I've seen Japan-market Schotts in size "38" that are a tight fit on a skinny short guy with a 34 chest. No idea if Vanson Japan gets to determine its own size labeling too.
Makes sense though because if you're close in size to the patterns they already have for that, then it's just a matter of your mods for pockets or other little details.
If they haven't made your size before in a given design (let alone a custom design) or the changes is more than a little nip...
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