here's that denim jacket I recreated in leather for the Mrs. Started out with an oxblood steerhide, then gave it a seal redye, then a light "antiquing". Should look killer over time as the oxblood peeks thru as it wears.
I get lots of "eye rolls" myself....:rolleyes:
only had the "no way in hell" over a couple hats, so just snuck them out under my shirt & put them on after were out & there's nothing she can do about it!
I rarely make a jacket that doesn't have a customer added "convenience option", eg: inside pocket etc. I try to keep things as close to original as possible in relation to design, stitching etc. but don't feel that it detracts any when sizing changes are made. Currently, I'm making a jacket...
get some tailors chalk. It's available anywhere that has a sewing section. regular chalk is fine, but I find that when using regular chalk, if I mark more than a couple steps ahead, its usually gone when i get to that part.
http://www.joann.com/dritz-tailor-chalk-refill-white/1049832.html
I made the Mrs. a leather copy of a denim short jacket. After Christmas when things settle down a bit, I have a hide I've been saving to make myself a B-2.
we've kept the windows up at night for the past 3 evenings. It's given me a chance to get all of my outside stuff done before it gets cold, leaves, gutters, yard etc.
All three look nice, but voted for the Vicenza based on the fact that the grain pattern on that one resembled the pattern on the sheepskin sample. I'm very anal about details & textures blending together & just like the look of those two together.
I'll have to look at the two originals I have...
I'm no expert on dating civvy jackets, but looks late 40's -50's to me. to my eye, stuff in the mid-late 60's thru the 70's just had a different "look" to it
you guys need to check out the RiRi "symmetrical" zips. They have a #6 & #8 that look good as an "in between" for the #5 & #10. I just installed some #8's in a jacket & the things look bulletproof. they are pricey, but well worth the price for a jacket where period correct authenticity isn't a...
yes, with a machine. you just need enough room to get the leather & patch in the machine with the liner out of the way. not hard at all. I'll see if I have any pics that might help explain better & shoot you a PM.
you wouldn't have to remove the complete lining, it could be done with one side along a zipper opened up. would take a little situating of the liner to move it out of the way when sewing patches on, but wouldn't be that big of an issue to do. I recently put shoulder & chest patches on a repro...
Yes, will change measurements to suit your needs/wants. I've always been a big fan of goat. Over decades, it seems to outlast the other types. Just look at how many original M-422a's there are that are still classified as "everday wearers" vs. the horsehide A-2's.
Just finished up the first Willis & Geiger patterned AN-J-3 made from the French goatskin. I did some special dye/wash work on this to try & get it looking as close to my original W&G M-422a as possible & think I hit it pretty close. I did deviate from the rayon liner on this one to a...
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