This is a No. 1 Quality refurbishment by Bob at Black Sheep Hatworks. Original sweat was trashed. 6" open crown, 3.5" brim, about 3" after the curl. Haven't found a match in the Miller -Stockman catalogs for the model name. Very moldable felt with that great black tone that these old hats have...
Huh. That's an odd duck.
The most notable 7x hats are the Clear Beaver hats, but this hat doesn't carry that designation. This hat looks more 70s or maybe 60s.
the box is mismatched, happens all the time at hat shops.
Check out Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovation:
https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma/page/74/mode/2up
but basically it advises a naptha bath, letting it dry, only brushing in the direction of the nap, and dampening and ironing with the nap.
This is an older German velour body that was very kindly gifted to me by @Garrett.
I finally got around to refurbing it. Blocked up from 6 7/8 to size 7 on a #52 which was more or less the original profile, and reflanged with a #33 flange.
Hard to photograph the true color and the hat also...
New set pics have been floating around (production had paused for a bit due to Ford sustaining a shoulder injury). Definitely a more tone on tone band.
Thanks Jesse. I picked up a handful of silks a while back and this was probably the nicest one.
Well, I suspect naptha might have gotten this hat cleaner. It's just that woolite was more conducive to my San Francisco apartment. I mulled over trying a naptha bath at work where I have loads of...
....umm, so, no, I was not under the impression that you were going to leave it at 6" open crown. My point is that 6" is not common a height for a fedora style hat.
Have no idea what you mean by "more steamed in." But as I mentioned above, another factor in why vintage hats look the way they do...
6" is pretty tall for a fedora style hat unless you're a person of above average proportions. Many mid century western style hats started 6" open crown.
There is theoretically a 6" open crown soft felt hat out there, but it's probably a pre-war vintage hat which would be inadvisable to modify...
So here's the hat from post #429. I don't know if the earlier pictures really convey how dirty this hat was. Whoever owned this hat originally was a heavy sweater and wore this hat a lot. The sweatband had the extra vinyl (?) strip behind the sweatband and the liner had a plastic tip liner...
Thanks gents! Hopefully will wrap this up over the rest of the weekend.
Wearing my FEPSA beaver hat in Cypress. Stopped by Golden Gate Western Wear/Knudsen hats to pick up a horsehair band for my incoming refurbed Stetson.
Pardon my un intentional aggressive-stare eyes...
Just put a new sweatband in this 7xCB. I didn't even have time to tack the 2ply band, but was so pleased with the 5min crease I got this morning that I had to wear it. More details to come when the hat is finished finished. It's older than I...
Scientific Hat Finishing references a "penetrating brush" for cleaning and velours. Anybody know what made a penetrating brush different? Is there a modern equivalent?
Sure, why not? It's a semi-dress hat (for the purposes of this discussion, a Campdraft is basically an OR).
I mean, maybe you don't want to take fashion advice from a guy who prefers not to wear suits, but I've done it. Probably not the best with a black suit, but I thought this look was good...
From my sample size of exactly three FEPSA bodies, I can say this; the first, the cypress body with 'special pounce 1200' did not need any additional pouncing and I blocked it as is. The moonshine felt could maybe benefit from a pass with a high grit, but I left it as is (can always go back...
If money is no object, go get yourself set up at Optimo, they'll help you choose a hat to suit your face and the Chicago weather.
If on the other hand, you don't feel like dropping $1k+ plus on a hat, check out Akubra hats. They're obviously not quite as finely appointed as a luxury Optimo, but...
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