Which Suits Here are 1920s Period-Accurate?

[Marc Chevalier]

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This is a rhetorical question, since I already know the answer. Still, I put it to you: which two of the three business suits below are early to mid 1920s period-accurate, and why?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Even if you're not sure, give it a guess. If you've been avidly reading the "Suits" section of the Lounge, then your guess will probably be right.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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*Hint*

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Damn I wish I would know what you are aiming at. Can't see the shoulders of the Buscemi suit but the other two are about right for 1920s methinks. No heavy padding like in the 30s.

The lapel roll of the Buscemi suit is goin too far down for 1920s and would need a smaller V?

 

[Undertow]

Wow - this reveals how badly I need to touch up on my era-identification. I see [*edit: someone] has responded, so I'll dip my toes in. Shout me down when I'm wrong, and PLEASE let me know where I falter.

I say the two brown suits.

Left suit: the higher button placement, as well as the larger gorge seem indicative, although the single straight pocket may be wrong. It looks like there are three buttons, but I can't tell as the lapel seems rolled over the top button. This suit seems fairly generic, and perhaps that's why it's NOT mid-20's.

Right suit: shawl lapels on the waistcoat, triangular cut at the bottom; relatively narrow lapels compared to the thirties. I can't see his shoulders to see how pronounced they are.

It seems to me that the suit in the middle has lapels that are too large for that era.

Alright, destroy me.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Good! One of you is half right, and the other is 100% right. Thoughtful analyses in both instances. Anyone else care to weigh in? Don't be shy!

 

[HoundstoothLuke]

Definitely the one second from the left.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Definitely the one second from the left.

The double-breasted one?

 

[Chasseur]

The two on the left are the authentic ones, and not Buscemi's one.

His does not "look" right, some things that stand out to me:
Low button placement, the low gorge (also the gorge and collar on that jacket never looked right to me in the show for the time period but I could be wrong), the looseness of it in both body and sleaves (most 1920s suit I've seen in photos are pretty form fitting with little padding), the low and loose waistcoat which particularly at the bottom looks to just hang off him, and I've never understood why they pin his flower to the front of the lapel like prom date instead of having it through a buttonaire hole.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The double breasted one is newer or 1920s? What do you mean?


Hurry up- I wanna know! I am no expert on 1920s fashion and want to learn more.

Maybe the waistcoat buttons on Buscemis suit are spaced to far apart from each other too and it apears to be longer than the other waistcoat. To be honest my first thought was: The main character gets the flashy repros...more room for mistakes. I'll stay with my guess.


Edit: Missed chasseurs posting. I agree.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The two on the left are the authentic ones, and not Buscemi's one.

His does not "look" right, somethings that stand out to me:
Low button placement, the low gorge (also the gorge and collar on that jacket never looked right to me in the show for the time period but I could be wrong), the looseness of it in both body and sleaves (most 1920s suit I've seen in photos are pretty form fitting with little padding), the low and loose waistcoat which particularly at the bottom looks to just hang off him, and I've never understodd why they pin his flower to the front of the lapel like prom date instead of having it through a buttonaire hole.

Bullseye on all points.


The hint I provided: a 1920 photo portrait of James Cox, the Democratic nominee for president that year; and a 1920 campaign photo of Franklin D. Roosevelt, Cox's running mate that year. Note Roosevelt's 'six-on-three' double-breasted suit.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Maybe the waistcoat buttons on Buscemis suit are spaced to far apart from each other too and it appears to be longer than the other waistcoat.

Buscemi's waistcoat is too long; that's the biggest giveaway. Though the photo doesn't show it, his suit's shoulders are also too wide, and his jacket's sleeves are too loose.

 

[Chasseur]

Bullseye on all points

Thanks Marc, you and some of the other Loungers here have really helped my limited knowledge set in the past two years (and made my credit card company very happy...).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Thanks Marc, you and some of the other Loungers here have really helped my limited knowledge set in the past two years ...

:eusa_clap

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Another of Buscemi's suits from the show. A modern costume suit; like all the other ones worn by Nucky, it has too-wide shoulders and too-wide sleeves for the era. The jacket's ticket pocket is period-correct: Franklin D. Roosevelt's late 'teens suit had one, too.

 

[Undertow]

Argh, I let an assumption sway me! Like Flat Foot mentioned, I assumed the costumers would have had the good sense to be ultra-correct with the lead character's wardrobe. Fool! lol

Sorry Marc, I couldn't see the picture you posted. Blasted work computer blocks everything.

First place I looked was the gorge on the lapels, but I couldn't see the suit on the left thanks to the carnation, and without a good shot of the shoulders, I drew my eyes to the waistcoat. I should have known that there were shawl lapels on waistcoats even through the thirties!

Do tell how the DB was correct to the area? Or is it that DB's haven't changed much? Was it just the button placement?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Argh, I let an assumption sway me! Like Flat Foot mentioned, I assumed the costumers would have had the good sense to be ultra-correct with the lead character's wardrobe. Fool! lol

In most U.S. productions, the lead male character's costumes are among the least period-accurate.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Yes, but why? Is a soft shoulder more difficult to make for a tailor? Did they want to make him appear more manly?


I also want to correct myself on the first posting. The lower V is not always a sign for a newer suit but the lower "gorge" (as mentioned by chasseur) is.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes, but why? Is a soft shoulder more difficult to make for a tailor? Did they want to make him appear more manly?

It's a congruence of factors: the ego of the star actor playing the role, and/or the costume designer's desire to put his or her 'unique and creative mark' on the outfit's design, and/or the intention to convey the character's personality (strong, submissive, etc.) via the outfit -- even at the expense of period-authenticity.

 

[herringbonekid]

This suit seems fairly generic, and perhaps that's why it's NOT mid-20's.

although the suit on the left looks fairly generic, it's also pretty accurate because there were, let's be honest, some fairly boring suits amid all the belt backs that we get so excited about. these 'conservative' styles are from Sears catalogue spring-summer 1923 (my own scans, thanks)