What about the classic White Suit?

[Matt Crunk]

It may be the wrong time of year to pose this question, but can anyone share some info on the classic white suit? As both a Southerner and a growing connoisseur of vintage suits I'd sure like to add one to my wardrobe at some point. What should I look for?

I'm thinking Mark Twain, Leon Redbone, or the image of the classic old southern gentleman here - certainly not Travolta in Saturday Night Fever or the Miami Vice look.

I remember Esquire magazine did an article some years back about the classic white suit. I wish I could find and re-read it.

Mr. Deckard, your input?

-MC

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm not Mr. Deckard, but I can help.


First of all, in the old days, white suits were not really white. (The only men who wore truly white suits were orderlies and Pullman porters.) So-called "white suits" were in fact cream-colored.


Second, these suits were made in different fabrics: I've seen vintage ones that were made of silk, of linen (including Irish linen), of ribbed cotton, of lightweight cotton, of Palm Beach Cloth (a cotton/mohair blend), of wool twill, of rayon twill, and even of flannel.


Styles were both single and double-breasted, in two-piece or in three-piece, with belted backs or plain backs.


So ... look for cream suits in the fabrics and styles mentioned above.

.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

I think they look great! I'm still waiting for someone to commission this suit from me. I love everything about it:

I love the North African linen look too. Perfect for the summer months!

Kind regards,
Magnoli

 

[Senator Jack]

Modern Italian take on Classic White Suit. You can't see it in the pic, but it's pinstripe.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'm far from an Expert Marc. i just know what I see. I haven't seen a stark white vintage though Cream and oatmeal and bone seam to have been the norm. I agree on leaving the white for the shirt. There are a few white Ralph Lauren suits which are beltbacked and white. He puts them out every so often.

Type in Palm Beach suit on the forum search and you'll see collections of off white suits.

Some wool flannel some linen some made of cotton, though all cool.

If you ask Tom Wolfe it is always time for a white suit.

 

[The Wingnut]

This one isn't white, it's definitely the cream that Marc speaks of. It's also a very unusual herringbone Palm Beach fabric. Never seen any other like it, although I've heard rumors of other herringbone PB suits. The fabric is almost a gauze, and the slightest breeze goes right through it.

 

[Matt Deckard]

That is beautiful...

I wish more men dressed like that durring the summer.

I think this summer black was the big hit with the linen crowd and super 120's suits were all around.

They made summer wools back then, though they were heavier than most of the winter wools we have today. It's sad.

 

[Orgetorix]

I think this summer black was the big hit with the linen crowd and super 120's suits were all around.

They made summer wools back then, though they were heavier than most of the winter wools we have today. It's sad.

Seersucker has been big here in DC the last couple of years. I've been wearing it for a while (before J Crew started selling it like hotcakes ), and a friend of mine who's a reporter for the Washington Times interviewed me for a story on the phenomenon.

It'd be nice to see some greater variety in summer suits beyond just seersucker and the "poplin" cotton/nastyester blends that are readily available. I'd love to have a classic cream/white suit, but I think I'd just stand out like a sore thumb.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

that's a great suit, wingnut. I have a scan from apparel arts that contained swatches of the herringbone material. Will try to find it.

Here's a similar one in the standard palm beach fabric. Again, not pure white, but whiter than my other palm beach which is solidly into the yellow-ish cream category ...

bk

 

[Wild Root]

BK, that's pretty much like the one I have! I have a late 30's or early 40's "Palm Beach" that I'm needing to clean... the pants need to be let out too. But, it has the lower patch pockets and the upper welted breast pocket. I can't wait till I can wear mine! I did wear the coat to the Sea Side Ball a few months ago... you can see me wear it with blue/gray pants and a straw boater in that thread.

I've heard many different styles of fabric mentioned but, what about Gabardine??? I've seen cream colored suits made of Gabardine and also wool flannel! Yes, wool flannel was a cool soft comfortable fabric then... I have a nice pair of National Recovery Act 1933-35 pants with side straps and button fly.

Here's a few ad's of different fabric and colors "Palm Beach" offered...

 

[herringbonekid]

awesome suits BK and Wingnut. i'm having a jealousy-rush.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I've heard many different styles of fabric mentioned but, what about Gabardine??? I've seen cream colored suits made of Gabardine and also wool flannel! Yes, wool flannel was a cool soft comfortable fabric then... I have a nice pair of National Recovery Act 1933-35 pants with side straps and button fly.

Well, hopefully i'll remember this thread when i buy the one i have agreed to buy: SB, belt back, white gabardine.

I'm exceited. Must contact that chap again, make sure he knows i haven't forgotten about that suit ...

bk

 

[Orgetorix]

What is Palm Beach fabric?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A secret mix of rayon, linen and mohair. The actual constituent percentages were never unveiled, to my knowledge.

bk

 

[JamesT1]

I've heard many different styles of fabric mentioned but, what about Gabardine???

My guess would be this is because gabardine is not breathable, and as white suits tend to be more common in warm climates and such, it is rather rare to find a white gabardine suit these days.

Also, didn't the protagonist in the Great Gatsby wear a white flannel suit to one of Gatsby's parties?

 

[Matt Deckard]

Gabardine breaths okay, and it is wool. It's an old summer favorite. I wear the gab shirts to keep warm and the gab trousers to keep cool.

 

[Wild Root]

My guess would be this is because gabardine is not breathable, and as white suits tend to be more common in warm climates and such, it is rather rare to find a white gabardine suit these days.

Also, didn't the protagonist in the Great Gatsby wear a white flannel suit to one of Gatsby's parties?

Sorry but, no... Gabardine is very breathable... if, it's vintage from the 30's to the 50's. 100% wool or wool/rayon gab aren't as breathable but, they do breath. I know because I own ivory gabardine pants... I've seen gabardine suits from the 40's. They were also mentioned in Sears catalogs of the period. It was used in spring mostly because it was cool to wear due to the light color that reflected the sun light and also, it didn't wrinkle up as bad as linen.

Wool flannel was very popular in the 20's and 30's... even into the 40's. I recall seeing a very nice photo of Rudolph Valentino wearing an ivory flannel DB suit... it was amazing!

For the record, the kinds of fabric that don't breath contain Polyester and other like fabrics or blends.

=WR=

 

[JamesT1]

My apologies, I am not quite sure what fabric I was thinking of...

James

 

[Dixon Cannon]

John Lennon's Classic White 'Abbey Road' suit...

http://www.juliensauctions.com/auctions/Autumn-2005-Auction/lot179.html

-dixon cannon

 

[Tony in Tarzana]