Western brim curl

[Dinerman]

I have a '50s Stetson 7X clear beaver western- tall crown, wide brim, that needs some work and I'm looking to get it completely rebuilt. The hat has enough felt to do the work I'm looking for. It's got a raw edge currently, and the sweatband completely disintegrated shortly after I got it.

Does anyone know a hatter who can put a curl in a brim like on Douglas's boss raw edge and block the crown tall and straight?

Ideally I'd like to have it rebuilt into something close to this style.

Also- if you have an idea, can you post a pic of the sweatband used by that particular shop- I'm a bit picky about the quality of sweatbands- one of the reasons I don't wear any off-the-shelf modern hats.

 

[Dinerman]

The hat in question is on the far right.

 

[barrowjh]

Buckaroo Hatters

I think that is called a full kettle curl brim, and most any hatter that specializes in western hats should be able to do that for you. My first choice (closest to me) would be Mike Moore of Buckaroo Hatters.

 

[Lefty]

I think ScottF had TonyB do something similar with a 3x recently.

 

[rlk]

I think ScottF had TonyB do something similar with a 3x recently.

I had Optimo do that with a 3X a few months ago.

 

[Lefty]

I'm glad you posted that, because I couldn't figure out why my searches were going nowhere.

 

[Dinerman]

I had Optimo do that with a 3X a few months ago.

That's what I'm looking for. Was it the standard pricing?

 

[rlk]

That's what I'm looking for. Was it the standard pricing?

I kept the original sweatband and liner so I think it was a C & B plus the ribbon. I'm not sure about the brim curl.

 

[CRH]

Here are some variations on the tool used for such a brim curl.

 

[ScottF]

I think ScottF had TonyB do something similar with a 3x recently.

Actually, that hat already had a brim curl. I re-blocked and 'fixed' the curl, then Tony added a ribbon and sweatband.

That brim curl on Douglas' hat is a 'kettle finish' raw edge - a technique that was done by hand. To me, the difference between Douglas' brim and a modern curled brim is obvious, but I would be interested to hear Robert's opinion since I think he's handled 'kettle finish' curls as well as Optimo's work.

 

[rlk]

Actually, that hat already had a brim curl. I re-blocked and 'fixed' the curl, then Tony added a ribbon and sweatband.

That brim curl on Douglas' hat is a 'kettle finish' raw edge - a technique that was done by hand. To me, the difference between Douglas' brim and a modern curled brim is obvious, but I would be interested to hear Robert's opinion since I think he's handled 'kettle finish' curls as well as Optimo's work.

I agree that the difference is apparent to the critical eye. The 1950's 3X was a bit thicker and stiffer(less so than recent ones) than the pre-'40's hats and the curl isn't quite the same shape(but reasonably close in overall effect). I suspect the 7X would be similar in that regard. I suppose I could hand manipulate it with steam to open the edge of the curl a bit more if I wanted to put in the time.

 

[RBH]

Talk to Mike, he can do it.

 

[Dinerman]

I agree that the difference is apparent to the critical eye. The 1950's 3X was a bit thicker and stiffer(less so than recent ones) than the pre-'40's hats and the curl isn't quite the same shape(but reasonably close in overall effect). I suspect the 7X would be similar in that regard. I suppose I could hand manipulate it with steam to open the edge of the curl a bit more if I wanted to put in the time.

This particular 7x is extremely thin, even by dress hat standards, but has a lot of stiffener in it. I have another 7x western, almost the same dimensions which is a thick western weight, but still has the same hand to it. Do you think the thinner felt would result in a better product?

 

[rlk]

This particular 7x is extremely thin, even by dress hat standards, but has a lot of stiffener in it. I have another 7x western, almost the same dimensions which is a thick western weight, but still has the same hand to it. Do you think the thinner felt would result in a better product?

If its thin and stiff you will find it is easily manipulated when moistened with Alcohol(and sets up quite quickly).

 

[tonyb]

If its thin and stiff you will find it is easily manipulated when moistened with Alcohol(and sets up quite quickly).

Yup.

It may go without saying, but I'll say it anyway -- wear rubber gloves.