Vintage versus modern ´quality´

[The Wiser Hatter]

The bluegrass green Campdraft is actually a little heavier than I wanted; I ordered the heritage-grade hat and I'm hoping that one is thinner and lighter.

Tom

My heritage grade Campdraft is not lighter or thinner. That award goes to my vintage Broso

 

[gtdean48]

The ArtLite from VS is the closest modern felt to the vintage models that I have come across. I know Winchester has stopped running that weight of blanks.

 

[m0nk]

I'd just like to chime in with a similar frustration and eventual outcome; I was searching for a moderately priced, vintage-looking open-crown fedora in a lighter weight felt and with a wider ribbon, 2.5" brim, something that could withstand a decent rain shower (it rains quite a bit here anymore), but came up empty.

As has been mentioned, this is a personal preference, and although I can get an Akubra or some other durable solution to tide me over, it just wasn't the hat I had envisioned. There really isn't that hat out there that we all see ourselves wearing unless we go the custom route. The abundance of head-wear isn't what it was 80 years ago, and likely will never be again, so we have somewhat slim pickins. This is just the age we live in and all I can do is accept that and save my pennies for that hat. Of course, if I win the Powerball, I'll have quite a few different versions of that hat.

 

[VetPsychWars]

I didn't address rain in my previous post, but I'm glad you did.

While I expect any hat I own to endure a light shower, I try to not wear the lighter ones when it's going to be raining more than light. I have a Stetson 4X western that I can wear, in a neutral color, and also a Boonie hat. The Akubra is also a choice I can make. If the forecast is for rain, more than about 40% chance, I leave the Borsalinos and Stetson Open Road hats at home.

Tom

 

[carouselvic]

Borsalino

 

[Mr Vim]

My personal opinion is that bigger companies such as Stetson are producing a product of moderate quality where as back in the golden era of the hat, that spelt your doom in the industry.

I prefer my hats to have a little more heft to them but at the same time be flexible enough to have the right snap to the brim and the right slant of the rake. Modern, mass produced hats feel too stiff and unimaginative.

Having said all this, do I own modern, mass produced hats? Of course I do! My first fedora was from JJ Hat Center and as I have grown so has my taste in my hats changed. Do I wear it that often, nope. I like my vintage ones the better.

As for hats from different countries, I have a Failsworth from the UK, lightweight but tough and she takes rain like a beaut.

 

[scottyrocks]

High fructose corn syrup, cocoa, dehydrated milk, xanthan gum, artificial vanilla, salt, preservatives? Sounds delish!

From wiki:

'Egg cream purists and fans of the original early 20th-century formulation of U-Bet seek out the Kosher For Passover version of the syrup. In order to maintain its kosher certification from Kay Kosher Supervision during the Passover holiday, U-Bet is made before Passover with refined sugar instead of the high-fructose corn syrup sweetener base that is used the rest of the year.'

 

[Sam Craig]

It doesn't bother me to fall in with MB at ALL.

I have tried modern Stetsons, a Biltmore and Dobbs and the ONLY hats I am currently impressed with after wearing for a while has been Akubras.

I've put a bit of wear on mine now and I like them better than ever.
The only challenge I see is how to keep from wearing them out.

This past summer I got on board with the Akubras and I started working with Wichita Hat Works to replace sweats and doll up several of my vintage hats ... the price for buying vintage is crazy now.

Both of those options beat about everything I see on the market today. I am even keeping my eyes open for vintage felts that have to be rebuilt larger, because WHW can accomplish that, and the cost is worth it if I get into the hat cheap enough.

When a run of the mill poor fur felt is costing a hundred bucks, I can afford to get a lot of work done to a vintage hat when I luck into one around here.

Sam

PS ... DANG it hurts to admit Monbla is right. Dagnabit, MB!

 

[danofarlington]

As for choice in the store, it's a given that any store can only stock so much. You get a small to medium size selection and that's it. Sadly most of the hat retailers I used to visit, had tastes different than mine in men's dress hats. Then when I discovered Internet hat retailing, the choice problem was solved. I've bought most of my hats on the Internet--either retailers or E Bay, even a custom--and it works well. As to quality of the felt, well the custom hat makers of course are best. But I don't worry too much about modern production quality versus vintage. It's style that I am after more than felt quality--unless I buy a custom--so I go for the modern styles. Thankfully hat buyers have a huge range of choice nowadays. It makes hat searching fun.

 

[Duper]

The ArtLite from VS is the closest modern felt to the vintage models that I have come across. I know Winchester has stopped running that weight of blanks.

Hi gtdean, How do you rate the felt in the OZ Squatters? I think you own one and I know they list them as superfine on the EA site. Do you think they are actually lighter, thinner, less stiff?

 

[dogrocketp]

The only "modern" hat I have is an Optimo Dillinger. The fit and finish are superb, but that was before I learned about Art Fawcett and other modern makers. IF you can squeak out the money, the new custom is definitely the way to go. Had I known about them in the beginning, I would probably have 3 or 4 custom hats, and 1 or 2 vintage.........my Lee Homburg and "Dobbs Gay Prince" (in 4 colors). I think most of the FL people like vintage hats, because of the style and quality. That was then, and this is now, and never the twain shall meet.

 

[gtdean48]

Hi gtdean, How do you rate the felt in the OZ Squatters? I think you own one and I know they list them as superfine on the EA site. Do you think they are actually lighter, thinner, less stiff?

I had a superfine Squatter. It is a lighter & thinner than the Imperial, closer to the vintage Royal Stetson OR I've had. It is not a flexible like the beaver ArtLite tho. I'd love to have a Campdraft in Superfine now that I have a Heritage one as well.

 

[davers]

Hey Gang! I've been combing the Bay for over a week now, and I don't know if I'm ever going to find a nice vintage Stetson Stratoliner, and/or Roadster in my melon size of 7 1/2. So, I found a few new ones that I could buy. However, I was wondering about quality? I've read a few posts on this forum that said the quality of the older hats can't be beat. I was curious as if that pertained to the Stetsons as well? And, since I've never held a vintage Stetson, would I even know or care that the quality wasn't as good as the older ones?

Thanks for any input!

Dave

 

[winter_joe]

Since I've owned both the new ones are nice and good looking but they have low tapered crowns and I wouldn't suggest taking them in the rain. They can get a little wet, but if they get really wet they'll shrink and wap on you. And there are quality control issues with modern ones as I've never owned a modern stetson with the sweatband stitched on centered or the bash put in right. The older ones are better by far, so if you happen to find an older one in your size either here on the classifieds or on the bay or etsy get them if you can!

 

[davers]

Thanks! I guess I'll keep my eyes peeled for a vintage!

Since I've owned both the new ones are nice and good looking but they have low tapered crowns and I wouldn't suggest taking them in the rain. They can get a little wet, but if they get really wet they'll shrink and wap on you. And there are quality control issues with modern ones as I've never owned a modern stetson with the sweatband stitched on centered or the bash put in right. The older ones are better by far, so if you happen to find an older one in your size either here on the classifieds or on the bay or etsy get them if you can!

 

[DJH]

I think most people would agree that the quality of Stetson hats gets better as we go back in time, but it is a very sweeping statement.

As with other hat makers, Stetson made a wide range of hats at different quality levels and prices - the cheapo rabbit felt Royal Stetsons, through to the natural beaver 7XCB and 100s.

As you would imagine, there are a ton of good threads on the subject of Stetson quality on the Lounge - here is one you might find to be of interest: Stetson Quality Experiment

 

[davers]

So, what about getting a new Stetson hat in a better quality felt? I found this Stetson Stratoliner in "Royal Quality", which I believe is their lowest quality. http://www.delmonicohatter.com/product/TF221024STROB.htm#.UB0rZ2t5mSM
A google didn't turn up the Stratoliner in a better quality, Sovereign for example. Do they just not do that anymore? Do you have to get a different style hat to get better quality? My Stetson Firenze is Sovereign, and it's brand new.

Dave

 

[TomS]

So, what about getting a new Stetson hat in a better quality felt? I found this Stetson Stratoliner in "Royal Quality", which I believe is their lowest quality. http://www.delmonicohatter.com/product/TF221024STROB.htm#.UB0rZ2t5mSM
A google didn't turn up the Stratoliner in a better quality, Sovereign for example. Do they just not do that anymore? Do you have to get a different style hat to get better quality? My Stetson Firenze is Sovereign, and it's brand new.

Dave

There is a regular here that works at Delmonicos. He might chime in here...

 

[jbucklin]

Having owned both a new Stratoliner and a Firenze in the past, I'd say the Firenze was much better quality and held its shape better than the Stratoliner--- by far.

 

[gtdean48]

.... Do they just not do that anymore? Do you have to get a different style hat to get better quality? My Stetson Firenze is Sovereign, and it's brand new.

Dave

HatCo does not offer Stetson models in the tiered quality levels like they used.
I recall the last model was the Open Road which you could get in 4X & 10X but have only recently seen the 4X.
Road Master was offered in Sovereign where new Strat is Royal Stetson.
HTH