Vintage Suits Reproductions

[Two Types]

Thank You all for even commenting on this thread, i hope it does not die. BTW, can anybody fill me on why they stop producing heavier cloths.

The desire for heavier cloths diminished as houses became better insulated and heated. And economics - less wool means more profit. And fashion. And the need for wool to be able to compete with man-made fabrics. And probably a million other factors that an economist could explain.

 

[Two Types]

i don't like the term reproductions when it comes to suits, because i think a reproduction will only ever be a pale imitation of something better.

What phrase would you use? How about 'vintage inspired'? Or does that just make a suit sound like it has borrowed the approximate styling? What about 'copy'? That suggests that you accept that you cannot recreate the cloth and construction completely, but that you are attempting to get as close as possible within your budget.

 

[John in Covina]

As HBK notes the concept was progress. The concept is to sell less wool which is some what the raw material most suit fabric is made from. The mills made the wool yarn / thread finer and finer so that the count per inch became higher. A long time ago there were say Super 80's then 100 and up the count climbs. The sheep are bred to produce the wool and so on. Here is an article that poses a positive spin but give some good information.

http://www.mycustomclothing.com/customtailor/The_Numbers_Game_What_Does_Super_Wool_Mean.htm

However with each step to higher counts the gain in some area represents a loss in others. Poor drape - how it hangs, wrinkling and wearing out faster seems to accompany the higher counts.

 

[John in Covina]

The desire for heavier cloths diminished as houses became better insulated and heated. And economics - less wool means more profit. And fashion. And the need for wool to be able to compete with man-made fabrics. And probably a million other factors that an economist could explain.

Actually while the super woolens are lighter in weight the weave is much tighter and they breathe poorly compared to the looser weave of the old fabric. Many will till you they get more hot and sweaty in the new supers then the old vintage fabrics.

 

[herringbonekid]

How about 'vintage inspired'? Or does that just make a suit sound like it has borrowed the approximate styling?

inspired is what i like; it's not a copy of one specific garment; it's an attempt to recreate the spirit or feel of an era.

of course it has to be done well.

 

[herringbonekid]

modern man has been sold a lie; that he will prefer soft-to-the-touch, lightweight, flimsy suiting fabric because it is somehow more luxurious.
modern man doesn't know any better because he's too young to remember the alternative.
show modern man some real suit fabrics from his grandfathers's closet and modern man might experience something of an epiphany.

 

[MisterCairo]

inspired is what i like; it's not a copy of one specific garment; it's an attempt to recreate the spirit or feel of an era.

of course it has to be done well.

This is what I like about Indy Magnoli's suits, and for the record, the three that I own look great and fit well.

 

[Two Types]

Back onto the subject of heavier weight fabrics: many years ago I was lamenting the lack of very heavy cotton. My trouser maker came up with a rather ingenious solution. She contacted sailmakers. They had the very heavy cottons that I wanted for my trousers. I don't know that would still work (this was 20 years ago).

 

[herringbonekid]

some trousers in the 20s and 30s actually advertised the fact that the pocket bags were made of 'sail-cloth' fabric.

 

[Hershy]

modern man has been sold a lie; that he will prefer soft-to-the-touch, lightweight, flimsy suiting fabric because it is somehow more luxurious.
modern man doesn't know any better because he's too young to remember the alternative.
show modern man some real suit fabrics from his grandfathers's closet and modern man might experience something of an epiphany.

I assume, they are lined to not itch?

 

[Dinerman]

some trousers in the 20s and 30s actually advertised the fact that the pocket bags were made of 'sail-cloth' fabric.

I have some with those- only worn vintage suit I have that the pocket bags haven't worn through and required patching on.

 

[herringbonekid]

Do you know the weight and the colours?

these are the first four of about forty.

 

[Rudie]

Doesn't look so spectacular to me. J&J Minnis has some similar flannels in their current book, and at 16 oz. in a decent weight, too. Fox must have numerous spectacular designs from the Golden Era and before that are utterly unavailable today. I'd like to see some of those.

I guess Michael Alden makes quite a bit of money with the fabrics. I believe he's kind of the classic middle man. I appreciate that he goes through all the trouble of actually designing fabrics not available anywhere else. But at £100 per meter these fabrics are not an option for most Loungers. If we as Loungers would be able to get enough commissions we could do the same with Fox and have some beautiful fabrics made for about half the price I guess. I suppose the biggest obstacle would be to get enough commissions from Loungers.

 

[Two Types]

these are the first four of about forty.

The brown striped wool is about as classic British suiting as you can imagine. I adore it.

And i can just imagine the look of absolute disapproval on the face of Mrs Two Types if I was to appear wearing a three piece suit cut from that. I can just hear you shouting: "You look like a geography teacher!"

 

[herringbonekid]

Fox must have numerous spectacular designs from the Golden Era and before that are utterly unavailable today. I'd like to see some of those.

yes; exactly the archive that Mr. Alden is mining for this project.

 

[Rudie]

Well, let's hope he's unearthing some fantastic stuff and not just normal pin stripes and the like. The brown fabric is somewhat unusual after today's standards, to be fair. Hardly anybody wears brown suits anymore. But back in the day this fabric would have been nothing special at all.

And he's having forty different fabrics recreated? That's some serious money he's taking in his hands there.

 

[Hershy]

these are the first four of about forty.

I would love it if one of them were a plain navy wool. Possibly heavier suits with full canvas, lining and all those goodies would produce the suits of our forefathers. Not that i don't appreciate a super 180 (no need to rid of anyone.) I just think they serve different purposes. Any who, I hope Alden rolls this out to every J Press, Brooks brothers and Savile Row Tailor.

 

[herringbonekid]

I would love it if one of them were a plain navy wool.

if all you want is plain navy you won't have any trouble at all. Fox already do it.

 

[Hershy]

if all you want is plain navy you won't have any trouble at all. Fox already do it.

Where can i find this magical awesome cloth. I reckon it wont be in a J Press or Brooks Brothers.
Then Again Herringbonekid, Do you think that J Press or Brooks Brothers are still like they were Before 1980 or so. And Do you think Lighter cloths like(super 180s) have a place in sunny, warmer areas?

 

[herringbonekid]

Where can i find this magical awesome cloth. I reckon it wont be in a J Press or Brooks Brothers.

at Fox Flannel. by the metre.

Then Again Herringbonekid, Do you think that J Press or Brooks Brothers are still like they were Before 1980 or so.

no.

And Do you think Lighter cloths like(super 180s) have a place in sunny, warmer areas?

possibly, but personally i prefer linen and cotton for summer wear.