Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[Marc mndt]

Old Hercules, leather tag, Halfbelt. A disappointment. There were undisclosed condition issues and I’ve asked to return it. I would have happily paid 1/2 what I did, but at the sale price, these oversights are not acceptable. For documentation purposes:
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My fear with this piece is that it will be a popcorn maker of burst seams. It’s extremely dry, stiff and sorely needs a drink. I only put it on briefly, and it fit, sadly, quite well. The original paper size tag is perfectly preserved in the handwarmers. All the pocket bags and the liner are mint. $300 I keep it, $600 I don’t.
View attachment 382216

What a disappointment, this is one of the coolest halfbelts I've seen lately. Awesome collar, beautiful grain, perfect fit (and length!).
If it's just one busted seam and a musty smell, it might have been be worth having the seam fixed and investing in an ozone generator. You'd end up with THE perfect halfbelt.

 

[Marc mndt]

It won’t be easy work

Are they really that complicated? Isn't it just a twin needle top stitch?

 

[JMax]

Are they really that complicated? Isn't it just a twin needle top stitch?
View attachment 382237

Just going by what Dena offhandedly stated about working on my Hercules that is full of French seams. And that was one little seam at the cuff. I don’t know if it’s that more challenging. I don’t know anything really lol.

Edit: I have had entire jackets restitched. I was thinking more along those lines. It’s work.

 

[ton312]

Are they really that complicated? Isn't it just a twin needle top stitch?
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I think the complication comes more from accessing the interior, opening the liner. The labor hours really start to ramp up.

 

[ton312]

No doubt. It won’t be easy work, but that is one of the few jackets where it may be worth the expense. Maybe the seller can send $300 back to you?

I’ve thought that but as a seller myself, requests like that leave a sour taste.

 

[tmitchell59]

Old Hercules, leather tag, Halfbelt. A disappointment. There were undisclosed condition issues and I’ve asked to return it. I would have happily paid 1/2 what I did, but at the sale price, these oversights are not acceptable. For documentation purposes:
View attachment 382204 View attachment 382205 View attachment 382206 View attachment 382207 View attachment 382208 View attachment 382209 View attachment 382210 View attachment 382211 View attachment 382212
My fear with this piece is that it will be a popcorn maker of burst seams. It’s extremely dry, stiff and sorely needs a drink. I only put it on briefly, and it fit, sadly, quite well. The original paper size tag is perfectly preserved in the handwarmers. All the pocket bags and the liner are mint. $300 I keep it, $600 I don’t.
View attachment 382216

One small queston; This jacket looks black in your pictures like the sellers, but it is Brown? I noticed a brown color when you posted in another thread about the seam. To me the color is a big deal.

For the money I would be most unhappy too.

I though it may be a Monarch, but I'm not sure. Monarchs are known for their French Seams and also the very tailored fit. The fit of a Monarch is quite noticeable compared with any other makes I own.

When you mention the fine fit I do think of a Monarch.

 

[tmitchell59]

This is a Monarch with a Californian label attached. It is Black. This one is late 40s.

 

[ton312]

One small queston; This jacket looks black in your pictures like the sellers, but it is Brown? I noticed a brown color when you posted in another thread about the seam. To me the color is a big deal.

For the money I would be most unhappy too.

I though it may be a Monarch, but I'm not sure. Monarchs are known for their French Seams and also the very tailored fit. The fit of a Monarch is quite noticeable compared with any other makes I own.

When you mention the fine fit I do think of a Monarch.

It is black. Or at least it appears to be. I’m not too concerned about the color, the smell and seams are a deal breaker. I’m terms of disclosure…those are obvious omissions. It wouldn’t surprise me at all if this were a Monarch made for Sears piece. It’s quite well tailored and the attention to detail is superb.
Edit, fit pics. I don’t want to wear it too much and loose my nerve on a return. The temptation is certainly there. I just can’t help but feel the demand and price would’ve been lower with more disclosure on the sellers part.

 

[MrProper]

Are they really that complicated? Isn't it just a twin needle top stitch?
View attachment 382237

I think it's more than that. In fact, there are three seams. I once saw a video somewhere about the different ways french seems can be sewn. It was more than a two needle stitch.

 

[Jimmy Shinki]

It is black. Or at least it appears to be. I’m not too concerned about the color, the smell and seams are a deal breaker. I’m terms of disclosure…those are obvious omissions. It wouldn’t surprise me at all if this were a Monarch made for Sears piece. It’s quite well tailored and the attention to detail is superb.
Edit, fit pics. I don’t want to wear it too much and loose my nerve on a return. The temptation is certainly there. I just can’t help but feel the demand and price would’ve been lower with more disclosure on the sellers part.
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Real shame. That collar is kick arse

 

[tmitchell59]

This jacket is from the mid 1940s dated by the Talon zipper and overall style of the jacket, especially the gathered sides. It has no label. I'm not quite sure what the leather is. Lighter weight probably a cowhide. There are similar styled jackets in the Sears catalog, called Aviation jackets.

Probably a size 40 which I am squeezing into.

 

[ton312]

This jacket is from the mid 1940s dated by the Talon zipper and overall style of the jacket, especially the gathered sides. It has no label. I'm not quite sure what the leather is. Lighter weight probably a cowhide. There are similar styled jackets in the Sears catalog, called Aviation jackets.

Probably a size 40 which I am squeezing into.

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That is just ridiculously cool. I haven’t seen anything like that before. Outstanding!

 

[tmitchell59]

Hercules Aviator-War time-Horsehide

 

[jonesy86]

I love the gathered sides too. No fussing with the eternal struggle to get the Halfbelt even. Dena sent my Monarch back. Beautiful work. She is the absolute best and made this jacket wearable!
Before:
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A.D (after Dena):
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This jacket is near mint and will see regular wear for sure!

Hey @ton312
I have a Sur Coat Monarch incoming, and am thinking about having Dena shorten it like you did. Any tips? Anything you would do differently if you had a do over? How do you like the pocket placement with the shortened jacket.
Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Kubatu]

Local seller pretty close to me is selling this jacket and sent me some pictures. Kinda curious what it could be - they're asking $300.

 

[Cornelius]

Local seller pretty close to me is selling this jacket and sent me some pictures. Kinda curious what it could be - they're asking $300.

Worth arranging a try-on visit, I'd say.

 

[ton312]

Hey @ton312
I have a Sur Coat Monarch incoming, and am thinking about having Dena shorten it like you did. Any tips? Anything you would do differently if you had a do over? How do you like the pocket placement with the shortened jacket.
Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

I was delighted with how it turned out! Dena was able to mimic the front drop perfectly. I am sending it to Dave Sheeley in June, so that he can add some low waist side adjusters. He' too busy to do it now, but it will help tame the flare at the waist.

 

[tmitchell59]

Local seller pretty close to me is selling this jacket and sent me some pictures. Kinda curious what it could be - they're asking $300.

These style of jackets go back to the 1920s, so difficult to tell what decade. The Horsehide looks quite nice and the heavy lining is a plus and the original belt, which is often missing.

Is it worth $300?

 

[tmitchell59]

This is a late 30s Monarch that displays a fine working grommet Talon zipper. The jacket hide is particularly nice condition given the jacket is probably 85 years old. This suede is fairly delicate so someone took pride in this jacket. It does fit me so a size 42/44.

Most of what we seem to know about Monarch is in their jackets. For a large maker there is little other information. They are consider the maker of the iconic Sears Hercules half-belt from 1935.

 

[tmitchell59]

Talon grommet zipper.