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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

tmitchell59

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1937 Catalog with the back shot

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1938 Catalog

upload_2021-12-4_20-21-57.jpeg



1939 Catalog

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1940 Sears Catalog

upload_2021-12-4_20-26-5.jpeg
 

tmitchell59

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tmitchell59

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7,799
Location
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No repro maker has ever been able to properly duplicate the original Herc. It’s just not possible. That jacket is magic in a bottle and it simply can’t be reimagined or recreated.

That is pure diamonds!

I have a few more pics somewhere, but these pretty well illustrate the Original Hercules.

The last images show a change in back design.

I assume that Monarch of Milwaukee made these jackets. I'm sure they made other jackets for Sears and other catalogs, just no sure which jackets.

The Original design lasted more years than I recalled. Running from 1935-1942. The originals show up, but not that often. This surprises me since they were available for so many years. Of course these were not the only Leather jacket produced or sold during these Golden Years.

WWII changed many things in many ways and leather jacket design was no different. The large makers, like Monarch, got contracts for military equipment. I would think this seriously altered their approach to Civilian garment design and production.

Post war we have the Motorcycle jacket boom. Everyone, including Monarch got involved. The "Aviation" look popular before and during the war was replaced with the MC jacket.

That history is another chapter.
 

Canuck Panda

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Wool turn up neck bands:
Was this an original feature that was discontinued later or some of the vintage jackets wool neck bands simply worn out?

This is the first time I've seen wool neck bands on no bomber (letterman) jackets. Makes a whole lot of sense. Even better and more practical than fur collars, then or now. Thanks for the detail photos @tmitchell59
 

tmitchell59

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The inner Collar? They disappear in the 40s as far as I can tell. They do show up on various labeled jackets. I noticed it is dropped on the Hercules by the end of the run. My guess; too expensive/or just not worth the money to install. They had to pay a fee for the use of the collar. Both these jacket below are quite old and they are still there.

upload_2021-12-4_19-36-3-jpeg.384680



Here is is on the Roughwear

oVGiLNzD2TJk3qGGV4q03Pdw4zagsCbBZT5s2hFQ_mRQwewRD-S17U83MAA8xrvNdSNmuSBGfV7SxdC9pmIRp5i7YAYCMBjK45xTzvObdPntZa_76vSyKBR8TGwb2z9N0hQFFk25Ne5f6rTSEXKNQrJShhXMTj_tqEwAVT4VTETKcZwYsGPPGmtrV--_RxQMPPUSvx4r3Z3TlH4eEMmuhai8IrVQPH49tqYb0-1dGlT5QwyDkTpV1BkG7V60QfuMRNkp2lenYTQNIxJFUNHyACNNPoIxooGVlsyxEwyVW4KdBDsDhOi_QGU-2YPifO54k1ZWSri596oQb_2Pj6RElyvI8YXispMPqmhnTUb26wCDN_w8TuNjgUzUBoa4iuASpqqHxBsaWB6v_d0C17NXxqv-bGcsxgHSHyRwtGRne-5BQYApQemILor1IfnPrAYYuOKLJY0qXntHjWyKEGMiFwPL2z6HgaBvpa8P7eoEfz_uWxayoFEexgVKIFV91C0aFYNKraAjxppbUiwNUqQxrLOthCKL8NUXLX0AwOHk1xOHpLQkWjhyQVJxSOLgo0SYP3_TvWsZm9GNWGO7j3gbZwJ1b7eYCqQzpDMbrlhWtrUs2NKWPv8jqfKOgFwGCTfzTr17cGJXRiNjP_3dy22Ol0HrySnn0t9_5q3TrijjzubLjvlu4UZIh-P62v6lzieSOqw1l_OAr61tBX0y_ZwxV8ru=w959-h736-no


Zyf0pAah94bb8hD2dT4R0y_C434AMJHkdJYD_1EcoGiIB_czKqmENuHTg3NB7Qk-1-baMYaBS66HuzfsrbC8ySi6IWPjoA55Mcratg9ISefwl84HLHM5GPpfVo5MH_Z-UGSUEoOYWUbvdgWzoRyyxe184pvHDJkJ1Uq_k3HelaAYS_LvQC7xcCcK1tK1erzO2CI1oW42dbJh_9QZP_bpIq9PdNrNAIkuOPHqZBHceKPt3DkRyGZzoMmI6OU90ktJRiqu-8cvTyWai1yKYOcuG15Ge598IhkLWTlUw_WWigkfEmzpt3aW3j2GY0PxcYHQjeqI2ePaV8hd-4Fl6Is676XMSR4co792WIj3pMgqp0HabyO6FxWUX160nkXLFz9dVqqZTMnTh2mHhCjtpADeUJY-h1YIdp9FbSG28JRGsQjCkZHaKW2xqZNFiYFPNd1mvMPzS8PQCw8YdP3hK7t0DpP_zZj-A3amGhz_Jb-PNMbDCHnsQLrnNZvNTNQlLLNJOp7go5utELNp3I8fRTfmdJ3pJqtvJ3rIjFaffMvkOgJ-ucGTAoEX1suL8MvZkHZOgnsPv3W9HqBkPI-nzQpR3LmN_CpDgnWLVwGCQrMHsld3qCcFcrzcaERJGuyilrh28NyH9GWkNjMTAsC0pdFhth5Fs3Ef2fnRJzL-Oux4pq7qjKpCRtl9yJwC26XGt5gVE7X-EBsRWM4f3T3B84Lpev_o=w1341-h625-no
 

jonesy86

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Kauai
Patened inner collar label. I have seen this label in other jackets. I believe this patent was held by Roughwear Clothing. I've never looked it up. Just putting a few things together.

This jacket first appeared in the 1935 catalog.

View attachment 384686

View attachment 384687



It is the first Sears catalog jacket I found made with separate sides unlike the Cossack which was a front and back sewn together.

1934 Cossack style jacket

View attachment 384688

This jacket was listed for several years in the Sears catalog. I'm not quite sure how to more closely date the jacket. The labels may have changed, or the label placement I just don't recall.

Interesting note: the 1st back shots of jackets are these in 1934

View attachment 384689

This was a Sears Star when introduced, it did not have much competition and was advertised as "new" in style.

1936 Sears Catalog

View attachment 384690


In a couple of years there was competition in the catalog and this jacket went away.

1937 Catalog-Selling that Back!



View attachment 384680

View attachment 384681

Seen in a variety of linings, this is the lighter, also seen in wool. The outer style did not change but the inner offerings did. Also sold in Brown.

good shot of the back. both side adjustments are missing on this jacket. they are just above the hemline. As Iconic as this jackets is, I find the design flawed, too long in length for the low side adjustments, makes this jacket an awkward fit. I understand why they removed them.
View attachment 384683

here is the original throat tab relocated to the bottom closure. They must have found it more useful there.

View attachment 384684

The original main zipper would have been a sunrise Talon. This Talon ball and chain original remains. These pulls are a Mark of distinction.

View attachment 384685
I love the research that goes into the history of these jackets. Thank you:
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IMG_8266.JPG
 

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