Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[JMax]

Congratulations! I know this jacket was on your short list. You came away with a winner!

I've gambled many times on fit; loose some/win some. You Won!

Definitely feels good to win them.

 

[tmitchell59]

Definitely feels good to win them.

You did extra well on this one.

I thinking there were different suppliers for the HD jackets, that allowed for different quality of leather to be used. Looks like Blatt of Chicago made some of these. We will break this case too.

 

[JMax]

You did extra well on this one.

I thinking there were different suppliers for the HD jackets, that allowed for different quality of leather to be used. Looks like Blatt of Chicago made some of these. We will break this case too.

I recently read that a maker named “Golden Fleece” out of Milwaukee made some of the true vintage HD jackets. I wonder if Monarch was subcontracted, given their close physical proximity.

Edit: Schott had some contracts with HD, I’m just not sure how far back they go. Brooks too. We mentioned Grais.

 

[tmitchell59]

We know this is a HD jacket without HD label.

This jacket looks early 50s; the main zip and sleeve zips look late 40s the pocket zipps look 50s, the sleeve lining looks early too,

Rivets on the belt loops. I have This construction on some late 40s Hercules. I also have this Hercules labeled jacket with only a leather tag.

This is the Hercules labeled jacket with same leather tag and rivets.

I'm on a trail.

do all HD in this style have riveted loops? (mine does not)

This particular Champ was short lived?

 

[Yamahana]

HD Cycle Champ

Amazing jacket. Love the steer and how it looks worn in. A thick hide. The sleeve lining is not the same lining used in the body. I dig it. The P2P is 23”, not 21” like the seller stated. My shortest vintage jacket so I will have to take care how I wear it.

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Great score there hermano! Man you have been on a run here lately and flat out snagging some grand vintage prizes. I need to learn some of your sleuthing skills or find out what you’ve been eating.

 

[JMax]

I do believe this version of the cycle champ was short lived. The first two versions had the two patch pockets. Then this one came out in the mid-50s. By the 60s the Cycle Champ name was used on W pocket design jacket— no patch pockets and no D pocket. Stayed that way for a couple decades. Then the hyper commercialized, willie-g type jackets.

My best guess, we are looking at mid-50s to 60 or so.

 

[tmitchell59]

I recently read that a maker named “Golden Fleece” out of Milwaukee made some of the true vintage HD jackets.

I have seen the later 60s/70s Golden Fleece HD labeled jackets. Very little is seen of the Golden Fleece label. Most I have seen are in vintage books, the labels are pre-war and not MC jackets. Just a label that doesn't show up. I can not picture a 50s Golden Fleece label.

Did this style just show up with the Blatt label?

Grais is a suspect do the lining color

This jacket below is an unlabeled HD Cycle Queen? late 40s construction and hard wear. no rivets.

The Three Spots is sorta a HD tradmark add two bars?

 

[ton312]

HD Cycle Champ

Amazing jacket. Love the steer and how it looks worn in. A thick hide. The sleeve lining is not the same lining used in the body. I dig it. The P2P is 23”, not 21” like the seller stated. My shortest vintage jacket so I will have to take care how I wear it.

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Wow man! That’s a rare bird. I have to think that jacket is a 50’s era piece. By the 60’s straight through to the early 80’s, the cycle champ was the three pocket design you’d associate with black, white, and AMF labels. Then the Korean made version before Willie nuked the leather line with embossed American eagles.
Spectacular piece of HD history. That’s a collectors item.

 

[tmitchell59]

Yes, I went to the book. We discussed this is another thread with catalogs pics, but forgotten where. Yes, new style in 1954, but list it as Horsehide only, can't read the lining materials in the ad.

What year did similar Buco pocket come out? I will look at it in the classifieds.

 

[tmitchell59]

Buco J82 Steerhide, also short lived..

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-50’s-buco-j82-size-40.105924/

 

[JMax]

The three-spot does seem to be HD thing, especially when on the shoulders. Earlier Cycle Champs did have the bars on the epaulettes though, as did the very similar Grais D pocket. Buco, Leathertogs had the bars all over their pocketless D pocket jackets too.

The Blatt does have the 3-spot on the epaulettes.

 

[JMax]

More pics. You can see how the brown fights through the black. On the sleeve, around the pockets. Different colored lining too.

 

[JMax]

Belt buckle on Cycle Champ. The strap has no holes and the buckle no prong. Works extremely well with a clean look.

 

[JMax]

Taubers arrived. Wow. Great fit, awesome hide, beefy zip. Longer in the body than one would expect from a vintage jacket. Very happy with it. Thanks @J Leather Investigater

 

[Yamahana]

Belt buckle on Cycle Champ. The strap has no holes and the buckle no prong. Works extremely well with a clean look.

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I noticed that plus the rope edge detail on it makes it cooler still.

 

[Mysteryo]

I have one of these mid fifties HD jacket. Last D Pocket they produced in the golden age!
Mine has no brand tag, so not 100% sure it’s not a Grais.
Lining is not original, belt has been customized by previous owner, and I don’t know what leather it’s made of.

 

[JMax]

View attachment 380420 View attachment 380422 View attachment 380423 View attachment 380424 View attachment 380425 I have one of these mid fifties HD jacket. Last D Pocket they produced in the golden age!
Mine has no brand tag, so not 100% sure it’s not a Grais.
Lining is not original, belt has been customized by previous owner, and I don’t know what leather it’s made of.

Beautiful jacket.

Doesn’t the Grais have the pocket in the back, a la Buco? I’m in the car at a stop light so can’t check. Squeezing in some TFL.

 

[TheGuitarFairy]

More pics. You can see how the brown fights through the black. On the sleeve, around the pockets. Different colored lining too.

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Nice jacket! Mmmmm .. brown through black. This one's still buried somewhere. Nowhere near fitting but still can't bring myself to let it go.

 

[JMax]

Nice jacket! Mmmmm .. brown through black. This one's still buried somewhere. Nowhere near fitting but still can't bring myself to let it go.
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Wow.

 

[jonbuilder]

Hercules suede sport jacket I just pick up for a sung. The suede is lightweight clean and in excellent condition. I have no way of judging the age. I have been seeking a vintage suede for years always held back due to price and concern over the condition. The zip is a conmar and looks new. I forgot to take a picture of the Hercules
I looked at the label and this is a Windward, not a Herc

ag