Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[tmitchell59]

I've seen this one with a Sportclad label as well

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I had not seen a Sportclad like this! Great Find! Here is a unlabeled Goatskin I recently purchased. CSC jacket.

Here it is again. Not mine, in Washable Goatskin c.1938

 

[JMax]

There is this one for sale now. Looks to be the same jacket. If the zipper stop is original the jacket is from early post-war. I believe the zipper pull is missing which would give a more accurate date. The other Talon pulls are very much 40s.

I've posted this one below recently. With the strong interest in Cal Leather I don't understand why this one remains.

The added cost of the zipper repair (new zip, shipping) is off putting. Plus, I could swear this sold for $800 or so a while back. If it did, I wonder why it was returned and now the seller “only” asks $500. These things give me pause. And every day I still almost send an offer.

 

[tmitchell59]

I could swear this sold for $800 or so a while back. If it did, I wonder why it was returned and now the seller “only” asks $500

I was just having a chat with the owner. I don't think it was ever sold. You two should talk.

 

[Marc mndt]

30s Peter's

40s Trojan

 

[JMax]

Trojan keeps surprising me. For such a short-lived outfit, incredible array of jackets. Always seeing new ones.

 

[Marc mndt]

60s Montgomery Ward Brent

 

[tmitchell59]

Terry, thanks for sharing those beauties. What a collection you have. You continue to educate me and dazzle us with your collection. I particularly LOVE that pony hide with the pin striped lining. In my view the premium makers still have huge room to improve in that department. Lately, I have not seen a new jacket in with a top quality lining material.

Thank you for the Kind words! The Pony hide Californian has a little back story. I bought that jacket from a member here, who does not interact much. He has a collection and sells. He is in Nashville. He told me this jacket belonged to a scientist who was involved in A bomb research in the Pacific.

Also one of the most popular jackets when I show it. I have it stuffed! This jacket style was used by @ton312 for a reproduction effort.

Someday I will take more care in posting jackets, so they make sense.

I appreciated our conversation on the Reed company. There is something there. I continue to consider your thoughts.

 

[tmitchell59]

60s Montgomery Ward Brent

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Your Brent is superb! This is probably the last of the "good" leathers from Montgomery Ward. I want to explore the transition with MW during the early 60s. The jacket below interest me because of the quality of the leather and the label. I do not own any MW jackets with this label. There are many out there.

The 60s begin a significant change in Catalog outerwear for all the the big 3, Sears, Penneys, Wards. The catalog jackets really represent a good part of the market and reflect changing styles, leathers, cost etc.

This leather looks good to me: it also has the post Brent MW label. I have often ignored this label, thought of this as the cheaping of MW leathers.

This is a Custom Crafted label. A new area of exploration.

This jacket leather looks to be decent early 60s quality. Has the early 60s Talon tear drop slides.

I see quality here that fades pretty quickly in the years following.

 

[tmitchell59]

I'm getting my "Ducks in a Row", (what little I have) to start threads on the JC Penney (Sportclad) and Montgomery Ward (Windward) Motorcycle jackets. This would be a chronological history like the Sears MC thread.

Unlike the Sears thread I do not have catalog data from Penney and Wards. There are pieces here and there from their catalogs, but I have little.

The History would be post war 1947 on. The history will show Sears was the biggest supplier of MC jackets. Sears used various suppliers to meet the Post War Motorcycle surge through out the 50s boom. By contrast there is much less MC from Wards and Penney at least that is what I anticipate.

This is the late 40s Penney Sportclad label used on their leather jackets up until c.1952,

This is the primary Penney label used in the 1950s. Sometimes no leather mention. Some with "made in the West" on this label.

Not too many MC jackets are seen with the above Penney label.


This is the Montgomery Ward Windward label used through out the 1950s. some with no leather script, earlist with the Nylon mention.

Then the transition to the Brent label c.late 1950s . There are various takes on the Brent label.

This is probably the transitional label.

So put your Research Caps on and we will create MC history for both of these Catalogs.

 

[tmitchell59]

Two Great examples form the 1930s Golden Age of Leather jackets. They tell many Tales.

Little is known about these two California makers. The jackets are what we have and that say much about the Golden Years of Leather jackets.

The two example are amazing, yet created in the mid to late 1930s. They were making up the rules then. There was less inspiration from the past. Kinda of a no Hold barred rule. The development of the zipper no doubt opened up new avenues of creativity.

From Seattle Woolen to Trojan in Southern California the West Coast was alive with high quality tanning, and creative makers.

Peters, Trojan, Block, Ralphs-Pugh, Golden Bear, Star Glove, California Sportswear, were all in California.

California Sportwear was the largest, followed by Block. The others were smaller. Everything was more "regional" then with a small geographic disbursement.

In some ways the competition and creativity are renewed with todays maker all over the world. Now the epi center is Japan. With other makers through out the world.

 

[tmitchell59]

Just saw this jacket on ebay today. Not sure how I missed this bright Blue. Surprising this jacket is from !932-1935.

Here is a clue for dating vintage jackets: The zipper gives the best clue, but how do you date the zipper?

Here is an example; The NRA tag is only used form 1933-35. I gave an inaccurate date above in the Roos Moo Coat discussion.

This jacket was produced during 1933-35.

Talon grommet zipper. There were a variety of grommet zippers. That is another discussion.

 

[Kubatu]

Very unusual Hercules / Fieldmaster steerhide jacket I just came across:

They're asking $269 + shipping.

 

[tmitchell59]

Another Bay area Leather Label. Simmons Bilt Oakland, California. All I know about this company is in the pictures of their beautiful jackets. They don't show up for sale, most are in strong hands. (Not Mine)

Mid 1930s Talon zipper with grommets.

Talon Ball and Chain pull. These are seldom seen no doubt due to expense. I see these as high end pulls for high end Jackets.

Beautiful back design, but useful

Aviator front style with offset main zipper.

Common Button cuffs. Lower side adjusters

 

[tmitchell59]

Beautiful Goatskin in Aviator style. (not mine)

This jacket has no label. Sure looks like the back on the Simmons Bilt above. Could very well be their work. Goatskin was in common use during the 1930s. It was a lighter weight and very comfortable.

Talon main zip with a beveled edge pull. A bit newer than the Fan shaped pull on the jacket above. Both had grommet connection. The zipper is c.1936

Goatskin of this era is very nice as you can see.

Button cuffs

Very cool pocket with stitched outline. I've seen this stitched outline on Block Bilt jackets also a Bay area maker.

 

[Marc mndt]

Beautiful Goatskin in Aviator style. (not mine)

This jacket has no label. Sure looks like the back on the Simmons Bilt above. Could very well be their work. Goatskin was in common use during the 1930s. It was a lighter weight and very comfortable.

Talon main zip with a beveled edge pull. A bit newer than the Fan shaped pull on the jacket above. Both had grommet connection. The zipper is c.1936

Goatskin of this era is very nice as you can see.

Button cuffs

Very cool pocket with stitched outline. I've seen this stitched outline on Block Bilt jackets also a Bay area maker.

According to this instagram seller it's a Penny's

 

[tmitchell59]

According to this instagram seller it's a Penny's

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I went to their instagram page! omg! Nothing like that store that I know of in the USA!

I never found the Goatskin jacket I posted. It is not in the picture you posted. Those are three great jackets, the jacket on the far right looks like a Ralphs-Pugh.

The two I posted above are for sale on ebay currently. I don't know who is going to pay the money they are asking. I doubt they would!



Certainly could have a JC Penney label.

 

[Marc mndt]

the jacket on the far right looks like a Ralphs-Pugh.

That's a block bilt according to the poster.

 

[tmitchell59]

My favorite of the Old Ralphs-Pugh jackets. (not mine)

 

[JMax]

HD Cycle Champ

Amazing jacket. Love the steer and how it looks worn in. A thick hide. The sleeve lining is not the same lining used in the body. I dig it. The P2P is 23”, not 21” like the seller stated. My shortest vintage jacket so I will have to take care how I wear it.

 

[tmitchell59]

HD Cycle Champ

Amazing jacket. Love the steer and how it looks worn in. A thick hide. The sleeve lining is not the same lining used in the body. I dig it. The P2P is 23”, not 21” like the seller stated. My shortest vintage jacket so I will have to take care how I wear it.

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Congratulations! I know this jacket was on your short list. You came away with a winner!

I've gambled many times on fit; loose some/win some. You Won!