I don't think anything in the bell housing is getting knocked around, if so wouldn't the noise be there all the time? It only starts after four or five miles of driving. After limping it home, letting it sit for a day, then taking it back out again the same thing - runs quite then "clanking" after four or five miles.
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Vintage Car Thread - Discussion and Parts Requests
- Thread starter FedoraGent
- Start date
I don't think anything in the bell housing is getting knocked around, if so wouldn't the noise be there all the time? It only starts after four or five miles of driving. After limping it home, letting it sit for a day, then taking it back out again the same thing - runs quite then "clanking" after four or five miles.
I would think the u joints, if bad, would make a noise all the time, not stop when the clutch is in.
I'd consider the throwout bearing. Pushing in the clutch pedal will "load" the bearing and if it's just in the initial stage of going bad that may take out the "slop" in the system and make it stop making noise. Depending how the clutch linkage is adjusted, it may be rubbing against the clutch pressure plate release fingers and thus making noise.
However, "When I put the clutch in, the noise stops. Let the clutch out and it starts again." is opposite of what you normally get with a bad throwout bearing.
We may be interpreting things opposite as to what exactly is going on. When the clutch pedal is "down/in" the actual clutch disc is "out" of contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.
Regardless of semantics, the throwout bearing is directly pushed upon when the clutch pedal is pushed down and is not when the pedal is released. That seems close enough to your symptoms to make it a possibility.
The throwout bearing is external to the transmission itself, so the lack of lubrication would have no effect on the problem, if it is the throwout bearing.
The throwout bearing pushes on the pressure plate release fingers, and that "push" depends on whether you are pushing the clutch pedal, so a defective pressure plate is a next-level possibility, also.
However, "When I put the clutch in, the noise stops. Let the clutch out and it starts again." is opposite of what you normally get with a bad throwout bearing.
We may be interpreting things opposite as to what exactly is going on. When the clutch pedal is "down/in" the actual clutch disc is "out" of contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.
Regardless of semantics, the throwout bearing is directly pushed upon when the clutch pedal is pushed down and is not when the pedal is released. That seems close enough to your symptoms to make it a possibility.
The throwout bearing is external to the transmission itself, so the lack of lubrication would have no effect on the problem, if it is the throwout bearing.
The throwout bearing pushes on the pressure plate release fingers, and that "push" depends on whether you are pushing the clutch pedal, so a defective pressure plate is a next-level possibility, also.
Thanks for the information. I am by no means a mechanic. My abilities are limited to the most simple of tasks, so that's why I'm asking. As it stands right now, I'll have to take the car to the shop. Since topping off the gear oil in the transmission failed to alleviate the problem, the next step would appear to be beyond my abilities to tackle. I would, however, like to have some idea as to what the problem may be before going to the shop. It's not like I need to drive the '48 every day (or use it as a "back up" car like I do my '65 Ford), so a costly fix can wait till I'm ready.
Again, thanks for the insight.
Mr.Astor
Banned
- Messages
- 246
- Location
- New Jersey
Rjb1 I agree with you on the throw out bearing. That car doesn't have a tach one way is to engage the clutch floor it and see how long it takes for the speed to catch up to what you perceive the speed to be. (Slipping clutch) Could be a rear main bearing? Put 80 weight in their see if the noise quiets. U joint would clunk only going into reverse or the opposite and you would feel the vibration always.
Here is the sequence of events concerning the overall clutch operation:
Starting with your foot, that appendage pushes against the clutch pedal (down), the pedal is connected to the clutch linkage (several parts under the dashboard, through the firewall, and down to the vicinity of the bell housing), the lowest end of the clutch linkage pushes against the clutch fork which goes through the side of the bell housing and changes the backward push of the linkage (toward the rear) to a forward push on the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing rides on a tubular portion of the bearing retainer attached to the front of the transmission (but outside it). The inside of the throwout bearing is guided by the bearing retainer. The throwout bearing looks somewhat like a doughnut, with the hole scooting along the bearing retainer and the round front edge of the bearing pushing against the internal arms (levers) of the pressure plate. The forward motion of the "doughnut" (bearing) thus causes the pressure plate to release pressure on the clutch disc. The clutch disc is thus not pressing on the back side of the flywheel (connected to the engine). This causes the power to NOT be transmitted from the engine to the clutch and then back from there.
You can see how your symptoms might be caused by a bad throwout bearing, since your problem is related to pushing the clutch pedal or not. The actual parts that may be failing are the internal roller bearings which are inside the "doughnut" portion of the overall bearing assembly.
Starting with your foot, that appendage pushes against the clutch pedal (down), the pedal is connected to the clutch linkage (several parts under the dashboard, through the firewall, and down to the vicinity of the bell housing), the lowest end of the clutch linkage pushes against the clutch fork which goes through the side of the bell housing and changes the backward push of the linkage (toward the rear) to a forward push on the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing rides on a tubular portion of the bearing retainer attached to the front of the transmission (but outside it). The inside of the throwout bearing is guided by the bearing retainer. The throwout bearing looks somewhat like a doughnut, with the hole scooting along the bearing retainer and the round front edge of the bearing pushing against the internal arms (levers) of the pressure plate. The forward motion of the "doughnut" (bearing) thus causes the pressure plate to release pressure on the clutch disc. The clutch disc is thus not pressing on the back side of the flywheel (connected to the engine). This causes the power to NOT be transmitted from the engine to the clutch and then back from there.
You can see how your symptoms might be caused by a bad throwout bearing, since your problem is related to pushing the clutch pedal or not. The actual parts that may be failing are the internal roller bearings which are inside the "doughnut" portion of the overall bearing assembly.
Again, I'm not a mechanic, but I think the key to what may be going on is the noise doesn't start until after four or five miles of driving. If the clutch or throwout bearing were bad, wouldn't that make a noise upon beginning to drive?
buelligan
One of the Regulars
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- London, OH
It would but if it is cold out it may take things four or five miles of driving to get warmed up enough for whatever is making noise to start making it's noise. Clanking is not a sound that I've ever had in association with a bad throw out bearing but strange things do happen and without actually hearing or experiencing it for myself it's very hard to diagnose.
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Ok, anyone out there in for a FREE D300 truck with camper? 
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/4348233456.html
I found this and thought of Tom. He needs this.
On the other hand, I found this and wonder if I can swing it:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4348163695.html
I contacted the guy and he said that if it is not gone by Thursday it is going to the auto recycler! :doh: What would I do with this monster though?!
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/4348233456.html
I found this and thought of Tom. He needs this.
On the other hand, I found this and wonder if I can swing it:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4348163695.html
I contacted the guy and he said that if it is not gone by Thursday it is going to the auto recycler! :doh: What would I do with this monster though?!
Last edited:
OK, so I bit the big bullet today on my '61 Chevy Bel Air and committed to having it restored.
Some of you may recall the story of this car. My dear aunt Hazel bought the car new in November, 1960. She drove it until around 1992, when she gave it to my sister. My sister drove the car several years, then parked it in a field behind her house. I tried to buy the car for a long time, but she wouldn't sell. Finally, in February, 2012 I was able to buy the car from my sister. I had it towed to the shop, where they spent a while (and a nice chunk of change) getting it back running.
Over the past year I've done a few things to help make it look a little better, but never really addressed a "restoration job" on the old car. It ran great and looked, well,ti looked not to terribly bad (at a distance). But today, after fiddling around for long enough, I went ahead and committed to having it "done right."
The shop I'm working with specializes in restoration work. They priced repairing the rust, including new trunk panels and new floor panels, new rubber all around, a nice paint job (inside and out), as well as work on the interior (seat covers, door panels, etc.). They thought I could get everything done that I needed for under $5,000. I thought that was a fair price, so I said do it.
The car has way more sentential value than monetary value to me, and I was tired of doing a little here and there. It's time to have this project completed and get the car looking like it did when I remembered it so well as a young boy. Hopefully, I'll be able to report back in a month or so that everything is completed and my dear aunt's car is back in prime form.
This is what it looked like when new (photo taken Easter Sunday, 1961). That's me and my aunt Hazel with the '61 Chevy.
And this is what it looked like when I got it in February, 2012.
And this is what I got it looking like this year after my attempts to get it running and looking somewhat presentable (on the outside at least).
Some of you may recall the story of this car. My dear aunt Hazel bought the car new in November, 1960. She drove it until around 1992, when she gave it to my sister. My sister drove the car several years, then parked it in a field behind her house. I tried to buy the car for a long time, but she wouldn't sell. Finally, in February, 2012 I was able to buy the car from my sister. I had it towed to the shop, where they spent a while (and a nice chunk of change) getting it back running.
Over the past year I've done a few things to help make it look a little better, but never really addressed a "restoration job" on the old car. It ran great and looked, well,ti looked not to terribly bad (at a distance). But today, after fiddling around for long enough, I went ahead and committed to having it "done right."
The shop I'm working with specializes in restoration work. They priced repairing the rust, including new trunk panels and new floor panels, new rubber all around, a nice paint job (inside and out), as well as work on the interior (seat covers, door panels, etc.). They thought I could get everything done that I needed for under $5,000. I thought that was a fair price, so I said do it.
The car has way more sentential value than monetary value to me, and I was tired of doing a little here and there. It's time to have this project completed and get the car looking like it did when I remembered it so well as a young boy. Hopefully, I'll be able to report back in a month or so that everything is completed and my dear aunt's car is back in prime form.
This is what it looked like when new (photo taken Easter Sunday, 1961). That's me and my aunt Hazel with the '61 Chevy.
And this is what it looked like when I got it in February, 2012.
And this is what I got it looking like this year after my attempts to get it running and looking somewhat presentable (on the outside at least).
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OK, so I bit the big bullet today on my '61 Chevy Bel Air and committed to having it restored.
Some of you may recall the story of this car. My dear aunt Hazel bought the car new in November, 1960. She drove it until around 1992, when she gave it to my sister. My sister drove the car several years, then parked it in a field behind her house. I tried to buy the car for a long time, but she wouldn't sell. Finally, in February, 2012 I was able to buy the car from my sister. I had it towed to the shop, where they spent a while (and a nice chunk of change) getting it back running.
Over the past year I've done a few things to help make it look a little better, but never really addressed a "restoration job" on the old car. It ran great and looked, well,ti looked not to terribly bad (at a distance). But today, after fiddling around for long enough, I went ahead and committed to having it "done right."
The shop I'm working with specializes in restoration work. They priced repairing the rust, including new trunk panels and new floor panels, new rubber all around, a nice paint job (inside and out), as well as work on the interior (seat covers, door panels, etc.). They thought I could get everything done that I needed for under $5,000. I thought that was a fair price, so I said do it.
The car has way more sentential value than monetary value to me, and I was tired of doing a little here and there. It's time to have this project completed and get the car looking like it did when I remembered it so well as a young boy. Hopefully, I'll be able to report back in a month or so that everything is completed and my dear aunt's car is back in prime form.
This is what it looked like when new (photo taken Easter Sunday, 1961). That's me and my aunt Hazel with the '61 Chevy.
And this is what it looked like when I got it in February, 2012.
And this is what I got it looking like this year after my attempts to get it running and looking somewhat presentable (on the outside at least).
5 grand is cheap for all that work. That would cost three times that here. Have it done for sure before they change their minds.
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- Portage, Wis.
Five grand for that work is a bargain!
Dixie_Amazon
Practically Family
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- 523
- Location
- Redstick, LA
My husband's midlife crisis car we purchased last summer, a 1965 Pontiac Catalina 2+2. It is the same model as his first car.
In Illinois before we brought it home:
At a car show last fall:
In Illinois before we brought it home:
At a car show last fall:
Very nice. I love those old Pontiacs. We had a dealer in the little town where I grew up and I remember when these cars were new. The 2+2 was the GTO for adults. Fast and comfortable.
GHT
I'll Lock Up
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- 9,793
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- New Forest
Lovely! I need one! That'll get a lousy Prius out of your way---under the tire.
You want to get a Prius out of the way? All you have to do is call in 'The Mob.'
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- 54,308
You want to get a Prius out of the way? All you have to do is call in 'The Mob.'
There is more metal in that bumper than in a whole Prius.
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- 54,308
sola fide
One of the Regulars
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- 153
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- San Fran Bay Area
My 38
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