Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Big J]

My wife was in London on a business trip just before Christmas, and she went into Harrods and tried on a red Burberry trench coat.
She really liked it but it wasn't her size, and they didn't have hers in stock. But she remembered what the name of the style was, and I was able to buy it for her from the Japanese portal of the Burberry website. Interesting point, it was USD 600 cheaper from the Japanese language version of the site than the English version of the site.
They shipped it from the U.K. to Japan in 48 hours, gift wrapped at no extra cost.
When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was 'made in the UK', since I had seen a British documentary about 8 years ago that showed all production going out to China.
The quality of the coat is very very high.

 

[Michael A]

Crikey Mikey! How many coats have you?!

It's interesting seeing the design differences of the US vs British air force: yours has side slanting pockets and full fronting belt. The material looks lighter than some of your other coats? I guess the weather in the Korean war was different that that designed for back home. The British air force coats had horizontal pockets (with cover flaps); sewn in half-belts sometimes, rarely loose belts; buttons were tailored according to rank in silver, brass or stay-brite silver in later generations and the airforce blue distinctive - barely changing for decades. One touch I like about the British coat is that there is a storm collar flat - to lock up the collar - does the US version have this?

Too many coats is the answer.

This is a fairly lightweight fabric being spec'd at 13 to 15 oz. The zip out lining, which is wool flannel backed satin is spec'd at 10 to 13 oz. So taken together it's a moderately hefty coat. It doesn't have a storm flap for the collar, but the lapels button over at the top buttonhole near the collar. The buttons are hidden under the lapel and the gun flap. There is also a hidden small button on the usual male buttoning side so that the gun flap can be unbuttoned, the lapel buttoned down and then the gun flap buttoned down on the inset button so that the flap overlays the buttoned down lapel. If any of that makes sense.

At the same time that this was a uniform option for Air Force officers there was also a melton overcoat that could be used at an alternate option.

Michael

 

[Benproof]

The detail of your coat is great - photos look much better in the other thread of the same coat btw.

Zip out linings are great! This is the reason we all have too many coats - no zip out linings...so we need a light summer coat...a mid-season coat...a heavy winter coat.

Before coats became men frocks, coats were substantial. I can't think of how many coat disasters I have bought new and ended up parting with after a season....

 

[Doctor Damage]

Crikey Mikey! How many coats have you?!

It's interesting seeing the design differences of the US vs British air force: yours has side slanting pockets and full fronting belt. The material looks lighter than some of your other coats? I guess the weather in the Korean war was different that that designed for back home. The British air force coats had horizontal pockets (with cover flaps); sewn in half-belts sometimes, rarely loose belts; buttons were tailored according to rank in silver, brass or stay-brite silver in later generations and the airforce blue distinctive - barely changing for decades. One touch I like about the British coat is that there is a storm collar flat - to lock up the collar - does the US version have this?

The UK and US coats are different animals, when it comes down to it, and I suspect the UK coat was more of a greatcoat, i.e. 100% wool without a removable liner, etc. The US version actually showed up first during WW2 worn by generals and whatnot in the field (or as close to the field as generals got) and then was adopted by the US Army and USAF post-war as the walking out coat for officers (not field wear). From what I've seen, there was variation in weight, etc, over the years, and the US coat is more of a 3-season topcoat with a removable liner rather than a true winter coat.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Too many coats is the answer.

That applies to most of us here, I'm afraid.

 

[Doctor Damage]

My wife was in London on a business trip just before Christmas, and she went into Harrods and tried on a red Burberry trench coat.
She really liked it but it wasn't her size, and they didn't have hers in stock. But she remembered what the name of the style was, and I was able to buy it for her from the Japanese portal of the Burberry website. Interesting point, it was USD 600 cheaper from the Japanese language version of the site than the English version of the site.
They shipped it from the U.K. to Japan in 48 hours, gift wrapped at no extra cost. When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was 'made in the UK', since I had seen a British documentary about 8 years ago that showed all production going out to China. The quality of the coat is very very high.

For a few years only a few of their coats were made in the UK, but judging by their website they seem to be offering more these days, which is good news. Amazing the price difference...

 

[Antony Wood]

Hello everybody,

Has anyone here had any dealings with Grenfell clothing in the UK? I quite like the look of the trench coats they show on their website. They are a bit pricey, though, so I wanted to see if anyone here could comment on their quality.

Thanks!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Has anyone here had any dealings with Grenfell clothing in the UK? I quite like the look of the trench coats they show on their website. They are a bit pricey, though, so I wanted to see if anyone here could comment on their quality.

Just took a look at their website... good classic designs... close-up pics appear to show good construction quality... you're right about the £££, but Burberry's UK-made coats are a lot more (Westminster at £1,395). I've had pretty good luck finding tip-top vintage trench coats from Burb and Aqua, but if someone really wants a brand new coat these Grenfell coats look like they should be on a shortlist.

 

[Antony Wood]

Just took a look at their website... good classic designs... close-up pics appear to show good construction quality... you're right about the £££, but Burberry's UK-made coats are a lot more (Westminster at £1,395). I've had pretty good luck finding tip-top vintage trench coats from Burb and Aqua, but if someone really wants a brand new coat these Grenfell coats look like they should be on a shortlist.

Thanks! If I end up getting one I will post picks and let you know how it is.

 

[Big J]

@Doctor Damage, yeah, I was pleasantly surprised to see that this brand trading on its English heritage image was actually producing in the U.K.
The coat in question was the red Sandringham, IIRC. And yeah, that's an interesting 25% off for being able to order in Japanese! How the hell does that work? I'm not complaining, and my wife will never know.

 

[VansonRider]

My first trench coat just came in the mail yesterday. It’s an army issued field, overcoat O.D. #7 1946 inlisted version. A simplified version of the officers coat it does not have shoulder cape or gun flap.

It’s a Medium Tall. I’m only 5’10” but my arms are long and I wanted to make sure this would cover my wrists when I raised my arm. I’m very pleased with the fit. The skirt is correspondingly long and while it might have made trench combat difficult it keeps my legs dry walking around Chicago.

I’ve had surprising difficulty finding any information, I’d love to see the original regulations for fit and wear.

Reading this thread it lacks some characteristics of a “true” trench coat. Button wrist cinches instead of buckles, and the deleted gun flap.

But I really dig it! All cotton drill shell, the wool liner is in place and nearly flawless (one small hole) huge collar, and collar tab to really cinch it up. Feels like it weighs 15 pounds, but more likely 9 or 10. It’s barely worn, super clean condition and feels like it will outlive me. It also looks amazing worn, I like how it’s as much a piece of equipment as clothing.

I believe that at 1946 it’s the first year of government issue, it’s just after the Second World War and I believe these would have been issued for use in Korea.

Incidentally the belt is too short to tie so you can either buckle it, or tie it in back.

 

[Doctor Damage]

My first trench coat just came in the mail yesterday. It’s an army issued field, overcoat O.D. #7 1946 inlisted version. A simplified version of the officers coat it does not have shoulder cape or gun flap.

It’s a Medium Tall. I’m only 5’10” but my arms are long and I wanted to make sure this would cover my wrists when I raised my arm. I’m very pleased with the fit. The skirt is correspondingly long and while it might have made trench combat difficult it keeps my legs dry walking around Chicago.

I’ve had surprising difficulty finding any information, I’d love to see the original regulations for fit and wear.

Reading this thread it lacks some characteristics of a “true” trench coat. Button wrist cinches instead of buckles, and the deleted gun flap.

But I really dig it! All cotton drill shell, the wool liner is in place and nearly flawless (one small hole) huge collar, and collar tab to really cinch it up. Feels like it weighs 15 pounds, but more likely 9 or 10. It’s barely worn, super clean condition and feels like it will outlive me. It also looks amazing worn, I like how it’s as much a piece of equipment as clothing.

I believe that at 1946 it’s the first year of government issue, it’s just after the Second World War and I believe these would have been issued for use in Korea.

Incidentally the belt is too short to tie so you can either buckle it, or tie it in back.

Sounds like you've done very well indeed! Forget about the original regulations, you'll never find them and they won't be very illuminating. There's a basic "form" for what constitutes a trench coat but there's enough variation and wiggle room not to worry about such things. Regarding your belt, Bogey and Mitchum both did a quick twice-around with their belts -- not buckled, not tied in a knot -- so your belt might be long enough for that. Check out photos I've posted previously in this thread.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a US military trench coat (aka the "all weather coat"), which are used for parades and stuff in bad weather. They came in a variety of different colours by service (originally pewter for USMC, now black for USMC, green? for army?, blue for USAF). They're low quality but solid and come in a variety of sizes. They're widely available, often unworn, and cheap to buy, so they make a good starter trench coat for someone young who can't swing $$$. The details vary, the most common variations are the following:

- rain flaps on the upper chest (some have only one, some have one which buttons down, this particular coat below has two which don't button down)

- wrist straps (this one has a strap with buttons, some have a all-round strap with slide buckle)

- buttons (this coat has 6 buttons, some have 8)

 

[-Ariel-]

Trench from C&A.

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ great proportions on that coat, Ariel. I like how the double rain flaps on the front are the same length as the yoke on the back.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

If it was khaki it would be a spitting image of the Casablanca coat!

 

[Doctor Damage]

If it was khaki it would be a spitting image of the Casablanca coat!

The wrist straps are different, but I agree with you, this is the closest-looking coat I've seen!

 

[Edward]

Did anyone ever buy one of the WPG British WW1 Officer trenchcoats? Shorter than would be my preference - they apparently stop just on or above the knee (I prefer my coats to be at least six inches over the knee), though that is, of course, Bogie-length. Otherwise, the quality certainly looks good with the WPG, and with the oilskin layer under the cotton outer, they seem to be a good option for rainwear. They're at the sort of money I'd consider spending on decent trenchcoat...

My wife was in London on a business trip just before Christmas, and she went into Harrods and tried on a red Burberry trench coat.
She really liked it but it wasn't her size, and they didn't have hers in stock. But she remembered what the name of the style was, and I was able to buy it for her from the Japanese portal of the Burberry website. Interesting point, it was USD 600 cheaper from the Japanese language version of the site than the English version of the site.
They shipped it from the U.K. to Japan in 48 hours, gift wrapped at no extra cost.
When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find it was 'made in the UK', since I had seen a British documentary about 8 years ago that showed all production going out to China.
The quality of the coat is very very high.

There's a portion of their line still made in the UK. Quality seems somewhat better than the MIC line, though both are far in excess of what I'd be prepared to spend on them. The Japanese discount is interesting - perhaps Burberry is justa less fashionable brand over there? There's certainly a serious brand-taxon them here in the UK...

Hello everybody,

Has anyone here had any dealings with Grenfell clothing in the UK? I quite like the look of the trench coats they show on their website. They are a bit pricey, though, so I wanted to see if anyone here could comment on their quality.

Thanks!

Grenfell are excellent. They are, and have long been, at least on a par with the best of what Burberry have to offer, but being as they are a less fashionable label they tend to be cheaper. If you look on the used market, you van often find a fantastic bargain on a Grenfell for a fraction of the cost of a Burberry, even a used one. If you're going vintage, watch for one in full cotton. Not sure about Grenfell, but most Burberrys now are poly-cotton.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Did anyone ever buy one of the WPG British WW1 Officer trenchcoats? Shorter than would be my preference - they apparently stop just on or above the knee (I prefer my coats to be at least six inches over the knee), though that is, of course, Bogie-length. Otherwise, the quality certainly looks good with the WPG, and with the oilskin layer under the cotton outer, they seem to be a good option for rainwear. They're at the sort of money I'd consider spending on decent trenchcoat...

Knee length or just above the knee is WW1 length - keeps the rain off but can't be too long to restrict the legs or get muddy or snag on low obstacles.

but most Burberrys now are poly-cotton.

They been a blend since the 1980s at least, with their standard 55% cotton mix. They occasionally whip out a 100% cotton version, and you see one now and then on e-bay, but they're uncommon.

 

[Big J]

@Edward, I bought a WPG trench coat about 7 years ago. Excellent value for money. Very well made indeed, with great attention to detail. More of a tan color than a greener khaki, looks great with my Penman hats (I detest umbrellas). Very warm wool lining that buttons in/out, has another cotton lining beneath that, and between that and the outer shell has a waxed (or oiled?) interlining. Smelt terrible when I received it due to the waterproofing on the interling (very strong linseed type smell). Two weeks hanging on my veranda fixed that.
It's never leaked at the seams even in typhoons. It's quite heavy even without the woolen liner. The only criticism I have is that the leather on the metal fittings is extremely thin (although it's never ripped or failed), and the metal part of the buckle that goes through the belt holes was a little rough at the end.
Amazing for the price.

As for Burberry, they are big in Japan (were massive 15 years ago), and due to Japan's protectionist trade practices, Burberry offers a 'black label' line in Japan, which is effectively a Japanese majority owned subsidiary, using Japanese designers and manufacturing in China (my wife used to design for them, and Paul Smith Japan). These products are offered at 'regular' Burberry prices, whist 'regular' items are marked up as much as 50% above U.K. prices.
In light of that, I was blown away to get my wife's trench coat for her at such a good price.