The Story of the Waxed Jacket

[Pyroxene]

This Christmas I was fortunate enough to acquire a Barbour Beaufort Jacket.

The Barbour is considered to be the world's finest in outdoor clothing. "It offers an ideal combination of properties for active outdoor use that no synthetic material can match, and a rugged durability, tested and proved by generations of field sportsmen and outdoor workers." What makes this jacket unique is that Barbour uses 100% Egyptian cotton and is impregnated with wax and oil making it completely wind and waterproof. The fabric can be reproofed if it wears out. The jackets can come in 3 different weights of fabric: superlight, light and heavy (thornproof).

The Barbour firm was founded in about 1894. The oldest surviving Barbour catalog dates back to 1908. The lining of each jacket has 3 Royal Warrants (the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales) on it and the liner is the Barbour family Tartan.

The jackets sport a nifty inside pocket for storing valuables when you are zipped up. And, it can make it difficult to pickpocket. There is a big pocket in the back that is perfect for storing small game when hunting or gloves and a scarf when they are not in use. Accessories like an inside lining and hood can be purchased making it an all weather coat.

The pressed studs are made of non-corroding brass so that they do not wear out even after years of use. The zip has large brass teeth and a big pull ring which makes it easy to undo and do up, even with gloves on. The cargo pockets are large and spacious and can hold everything from shotgun shells to cell phones.

Barbour prides themselves in after sales service. They offer a comprehensive reproofing, repair and alteration service. If your jacket should need to be re-waxed or have a tear, Barbour can fix it. If the jacket need to be shortened or additional pockets added, they can do that too.

This is a fantastic jacket. Angela commented that it feels like plastic but not. From the feedback online, "the jacket conveys taste, a sense of style and an attachment to tradition" and one can expect to receive years of service from this jacket.

Regards,
Pyroxene

PS - One interesting encounter happend immediately after I purchased my jacket. I was coming out of Barnes & Nobel and a man was getting out of his BMW, looks at the Barbour, looks at me and says, "That's one hell of a raincoat." I just said, "Thanks," and walked away.

Pyr.

 

[Heirphoto]

Pyro,
Barbour makes excellent jackets. I have owned a Border years ago and currently own a Durham and a Northumbria. The Durham is the lightweight fabric and the Northumbria the heaviest. My 20 year old Border was as good as new but simply too small. It still brought an easy $60 well used on ebay.

I was just shopping for a Barbour flapped Deerstalker hat to go with my jackets.

Enjoy your lifelong jacket.
Tony

 

[MikeyB17]

Great jackets. I saw one in a charity shop last year, my size, brand new, for £25. Wish I'd bought it, but I didn't have a spare £25 at the time. They also make a waterproof motorcycle jacket, very popular in the 60's, which Steve McQueen was seen wearing. There's one on Aero's site at the moment, in the 'Vintage jackets' section as I recall.

 

[The Mad Hatter]

Two other waxed jackets to consider are New Zealand's Backhouse and Australia's Driza-Bone.

Backhouse basically is Barbour. I don't know what the precise relationship between the two is, but Backhouse makes Barbour Bedale, Beaufort, and Border jackets in New Zealand; while the Barbour Bushman is actually the Backhouse Bushman. Due to currency fluctuations, it is worthwile to check out Backhouse, which may offer a better deal than Barbour and may offer different selections than Barbour offers.

Backhouse also makes a long riding coat that resembles the classic Driza-bone. Drizabone also makes other, hip and thigh length oilskins such as the Ranger and the Brumby.

One of many sites offering these products is this:
http://www.bestofdownunder.com/

BTW: Oilskin was first used by sailors in the South Seas. The first oilskins were sold in Australia and New Zealand.

 

[Pyroxene]

Barbour Jackets from New Zeland

I received an email from Debbie Broadley at Barbour Inc. USA.

Those jackets are made in New Zealand under license for Barbour for sale in the Australasian market. They are not manufactured in the Barbour factories in the UK but are still warranteed. We will do repair work/reproofing on the jackets, but if for some reason you need to exchange them, they would need to go back through the place of purchase and not us as we do only stock the UK made Barbours and do not mix our stocks.

As the manufacture of Barbour jackets for the Australasian market is under license and not a Barbour owned factory, we cannot attest to their quality vs. UK manufactured product quality. Their product is not licensed to be exported out of that market so we have little experience with its quality.

We do stand behind what we receive from the UK and sell in the USA. It should say on the sewn in label on your jacket where it was made.

Kind regards,
Debbie Broadley
Barbour Inc.
USA

This may explain many of the questions I had about the jackets I saw on ebay. Some of them were going for about 1/2 of the cost of a Barbour from other sources.

Pyro.

 

[SHARPETOYS]

Factory rep

This guy is a rep for them and has his own web site. $230.00 for the jacket and $30.00 shipping. Is the price fair??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=57988&item=3949449216&rd=1

 

[Pyroxene]

The price may seem pretty fair...

Price does seem fair. I am not an expert on the fabrics and materials but the tartan looks different from mine. It appears that one on ebay is the "Classic Beaufort" and is made out of Sylkoil whereas mine is the "Beaufort" made out of waxed cotton.

Perhaps someone could better explain the difference than what is on the website.

WAX COTTON
Barbour Wax Cotton materials are all manufactured exclusively to our own unique specification. The material is made from finest 100% long stable Egyptian Cotton and is treated with special oil and wax to ensure it is totally wind and waterproof. It is available in heavy or medium weight finishes and can easily be reproofed.

SYLKOIL
Many of Barbour's jackets are made using the original proofing formula, which John Barbour called 'Sylkoil'. It is soft, flexible and non-sticky oil proofed natural Cotton that drapes superbly, bringing extra workability to the tailoring and cut, and gives more comfort and style to the wearer. It is available in heavy or medium weight finishes.

It was drizzling this morning and the jacket held up well. I anxious to see what it can do in a classic Texas Flood.

Pyro.

 

[SHARPETOYS]

May get answer

I sent him an email about the fabrics. I;ll post his answer if i get one!

 

[Heirphoto]

I have owned both Sylkoil and Thornproof. In addition to the differnt type fabics there are different weights, featherweight, lightweight and heavyweight. Some jackets with different names are actually identical designs but with different fabrics. My old Border was a lightweight thornproof while my new Northumbria is a heavyweight sylkoil but the design is identical. The old Northumbria was simply heavy thornproof. Odd that the "new" Sylkoil is actually the original stuff while the "classic" is the later thornproof.
What I have found in practice is that a new Thronproof Classic is a pretty slick (due to the proofing) green fabric that ages to a lighter green as it dries out. reproofing darkens and slickens it up again. Linings are a green cotton tartan. The Sylkoil on the other hand starts as a bit duller or actually a little fuzzy medium brown (olive they call it) fabric that ages lighter and even fuzzier. I have no reproofed mine so don't know how this will affect it. Lining is a deep brown tartan that I think is a wool/cotton blend. Again, light, medium and heavy weights are available in both finishes and many similar styles. Right now I have the Northumbria and a Durham (built in hood) both in Sylkoil but do miss the classic green finish.
Hope this answers a few questions anyway.
Tony Miller

 

[Heirphoto]

Old Hat,
Thanks for the Filson info. I looked into them as well way back when I bought my first Barbour. I like the British stuff so stayed with barbour but the Filson looked pretty good.
I think I remember their ad or logo saying "might as well buy the best". Sounds like they can back it up too.
Tony

 

[wemedge]

Hello from New Guy and Continuing on Waxed Jackets

Hello to all, I hope it's ok to say hello here and continue on a thread.

I have been reading this forum for awhile and have gained much sartorial insight. I am very pleased to find this community, and reassured to find a place where hats (in my case an Akubra Federation) are still accepted as normal and essential gear.

Hopefully I may be able to contribute a little, if not in knowledge, at least in enthusiasm...

Pyroxene, this is belated, but congratulations on your Barbour. May it last you long and serve you well.

I am a Barbour fan myself.

Mine is a Bedale which I bought in Gibraltar almost 10 years ago. I'm still wearing it everyday, although it has gone through numerous repairs and parts have been reinforced with leather where it wears the most. I don't abuse my jackets, but I have used it to its fullest. I wear it year-round with different layers. Re-waxing and mending for me is seasonal ritual. I fear, however, it is on its last legs as I discovered a new tear(s) yesterday...

A couple of discussions on this site has inspired me to try a Filson Tin cloth Upland/Waterfowl waxed jacket as a replacement. I should receive it in a week or so, hopefully my Barbour will continue its faithful service till then.

regards to all
wemedge

 

[wemedge]

When I first opened the package, I admit I was a bit shaken. The jacket was folded into a heavy, thick slab that flexed about as much as a brick... and as soon as I took it out of the plastic wrapping, the smell told me I'd have to get it out of the house before the lady of my life got home.

...I'm going to be participating less here for awhile than I have been, but please let us know how it goes with your new jacket.

Thank you, Old_Hat:

I'm having the jacket sent to the office so maybe I should be alone when I open it...Haven't thought about the smell

Will share my impressions of it when get it. The only reservation I have is that it has no lining (or at least the catalog doesn't mention it). I am quite looking forward to receiving the jacket.

The Filson catalog is good reading.

Regards,
wemedge

 

[wemedge]

Filson Tin Cloth Waterfowl/Upland Jacket Initial Impressions

Old_Hat:

Thank you for all the information.

The jacket arrived today in my office. Unwrapped it at my desk and took a sniff of the wonderful aroma of wax.

I wear a size 38 jacket and the Small fit me perfectly, with enough room for layering. The cotton lining is a real plus. It is heavier than my old Bedale, and looks like the Tin cloth will be able to take quite a beating. It feels a bit stiff, but I actually like the stiffness. I love all the pockets. One feature that was not apparent to me from the catalog was the snaps on the storm flap in addition to buttons. Nice surprise feature. Also included was a Can of Filson's dressing in a little envelope in one of the pockets. Nice.

My initial impressions are positive and I forsee a pair of Tin pants in my future. I am now officially retiring my poor old Barbour before it gets ripped any further.

wemedge

 

[Pyroxene]

pics?

I am now officially retiring my poor old Barbour before it gets ripped any further.

wemedge

You got any pics of that old thing? It would be neat to see.

 

[wemedge]

Wemedge Bedale Pics

You got any pics of that old thing? It would be neat to see.

Pyroxene:

Here you go, a few bad pics with a webcam (only camera I could get my hands on), at:

http://photos.yahoo.com/uv777_ca

The shot of the liner that looks like a game bag is actually the tartan detaching from the plastic lower lining. The fabric is getting too fragile to patch. Short of duct tape, I can no longer make lasting repairs on this coat...

wemedge

 

[sandysot]

Twenty five years ago Banana Republic sold a Barbour style waxed cotton jacket series. College friend Jim Schmick got us tickets for the first ever Gran Prix rally on Biscayne Boulevard in downtown Miami. When the Schmicker showed up, he was wearing a light weight,brown, Banana Republic four pocket model waxie with a belt.Very rakish with corduroy collar & cuffs,a red plaid lining and style out the wazoo.Carrying his Leica 35mm camera and looking like a staff photographer in his four pocket jacket, his brash manner got us into the pit stop area and access to the drivers and crews all day long.
Now you just know I was green with envy especially when a light drizzle hit late in the afternoon-and rolled right off the waxie.That jacket was just made for tropical wear. I just had to have one-so the next week my kids chipped in and got me one.I used it and used it and rewaxed it four or five times until I became an expert in melting the wax dressing with a hair dryer to get an even coating.I had that coat until late last year when I sold it on Ebay for near as much as I paid for it.Still have a pint of the Aussie reproofing oil I bought last year.
This year I found another one -must have been new old stock- at a local store-this one is an olive green insulated and leather trimmed model with slash pockets.Cant use it in Florida, but it sure looks good in my closet-brand spanking new.I think of the Schmicker every time I look at it

Sandy

 

[sandysot]

Here are the pics of the insulated Banana Republic (Barbour?) waxed jacket.forgot to mention that it has a full width game pocket at the rear and corduroy collar & cuffs.

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Sandy

 

[Zach R.]

Looks great, its too bad banana republic doesn't make stuff like that anymore. Is that leather on the elbows and the piping of the pockets?

BTW, what experience do you guys have with the Drizabone Short Coat?

 

[PADDY]

Still got my Bedale for sale.

Not sure if anyone noticed it in classifieds. Nicely aged patina to the cotton, four pocket front, green waxed Egyptian cotton. email if interested.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Waxed jackets

I used to work for Belstaff - the other major maker (and claimed inventor) of waxed cotton.