The quality of a suit

[Marc Chevalier]

At what price-point would you say today's mid-level suits are positioned?

I'd say that by most accounts, such OTR brands as Calvin Klein, HS&M, and Hugo Boss are considered to be mid-level. Whatever they're retailing for these days is their "positioned price point". A quick Google search should show some price tags.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The former.

No idea. Corneliani? St. Andrews?

 

[Tomasso]

This is a Who's on First moment....:eusa_doh:

 

[Matt Deckard]

Egads, why is this turning into a tennis match?

So what's the question? How would one today rank makers from bottom, middle, to high, when it comes to cost and construction?

Keep in mind, I just sent a friend to Target to get her boyfriend a starter suit, shirt, and tie that he could wear to Cicada last Sunday. I'll consider that low end, but worth the price.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

I think if one looks for suit that some of the upper priced stores such as Macy, you can find a fairly decent suit that I would consider med range quality for a decent price.

Now one name brand that I have always desired for suits is Lanvin. At some point in time the company has shifted to making things very "modern" looking, I tend to think it may have to do with someone new running the show. But I am very sure for the money, they are a hard case to beat when it comes to quality and style. I have perhaps several Lanvin that are from the 1950's era that I absolutely love, and a few that are from the late 1980's and a few that are brand new.

Hugo Boss makes a nice suit, I own a few and like them, as does another brand, Strathmore. Most of my double breasted suits are one or the other of these two brands. I am very overly fussy about what I will wear. If it does not hold a crease, or seem to keep a fresh look, I won't own it. There also is Versace, and Armani, I have a few of their suits and a few dozen pairs of pants and shirts and ties.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Huge question that probably no one living today could answer thoroughly. (Where's Arnold Gingrich when we need him? Oh yeah, he's dead.)

I'll offer up a handful of stratosphere names, and other Loungers can contribute more ... as well as high, mid and low names.

Strictly Golden Era here (1900s-1960s) ...


Stratosphere Quality (and Usually Price) American Bespoke Suitmakers from the Golden Era:


-- Wetzel (NYC)
-- H. Harris (NYC)
-- Twyeffort (NYC)
-- Emsley (NYC)
-- Stadler & Stadler (NYC)
-- Lord of New York (NYC)
-- Bernard Weatherill (NYC and London)
-- F. L. Dunne (NYC)
-- Rosenthal-Maretz (NYC)
-- Dunhill Tailors (NYC)
-- Earl Benham (NYC)
-- Pat Sylvestri (NYC)

-- Eddie Schmidt / Schmidt & Galuppo (L.A.)
-- Alexander & Oviatt / Oviatt's (L.A.)
-- Pesterre's (L.A.)
-- Quintino (L.A.)
-- Giacomo Trabalza (L.A.)
-- Tartaglia Bros. (L.A.)
-- Dominick Alvaro (L.A.)
-- Carmen LaMola (L.A.)
-- Albert Mariani (L.A.)
-- Anthony Gasbarri (L.A.)


If you find anything made by these tailors and it's your size, BUY IT IMMEDIATELY.

One very sought after tailor also was the fellow that made all of Elvis Presley suits and shirts, Bernard Lansky. Not sure he made everything Elvis wore, but was famous for making a lot of his clothing. Collector's love to grab anything made from Lansky.

 

[Fifty150]

Keep in mind, I just sent a friend to Target to get her boyfriend a starter suit, shirt, and tie that he could wear to Cicada last Sunday. I'll consider that low end, but worth the price.

Exactly. Worth the price. What exactly is the intrinsic value in most of these suits? I can see value in the material & labor when suits are actually made by a tailor. But when it comes to something mass produced in a factory for very little cost, then we pay more for mark-up & freight so that the end retailer (Macy's, Nordstroms, Saks, et al) can cover their overhead cost and generate a profit. A lot of these suits are priced because the of the perceived value of the label's name. Same factory ships out identical suits, all worth less than $XX, then depending on the label, we pay $XXX or $XXXX. That suit from Target was probably the same quality in construction and materials as some of the suits from Macy's that retail for twice as much. Most people, myself included, have no idea what we're looking at anyway. We just think that the Macy's label must be better than the Target label, because it cost more.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Exactly. Worth the price. What exactly is the intrinsic value in most of these suits? I can see value in the material & labor when suits are actually made by a tailor. But when it comes to something mass produced in a factory for very little cost, then we pay more for mark-up & freight so that the end retailer (Macy's, Nordstroms, Saks, et al) can cover their overhead cost and generate a profit. A lot of these suits are priced because the of the perceived value of the label's name. Same factory ships out identical suits, all worth less than $XX, then depending on the label, we pay $XXX or $XXXX. That suit from Target was probably the same quality in construction and materials as some of the suits from Macy's that retail for twice as much. Most people, myself included, have no idea what we're looking at anyway. We just think that the Macy's label must be better than the Target label, because it cost more.

I may agree with your viewpoints that many places do buy things that are made by the same factory. And there is nothing wrong with buying what one may afford to buy at J.C. Pennys or for that matter, Target.

However there is a cut, style, and quality of material that is sought after by some that you will not find with a low price tag. I do also have to admit, that some of the pricing on clothing is out of sight.

I have a sport coat that is all silk that I found at J.C. Pennys and I purchased it without hesitation. The price had nothing to do with my buying it, it was the material and the "cut" of the suit that made me buy it the very instant I looked at it, and it fit like a glove.

I also find that some of the items that the high end stores sell, are not what I would buy and wear also. Clothing in general has a very heavy mark up. Not sure about how much buyers are able to get deals, but I do know a store that buys Levis Jeans for $9.75 cents a pair, and they retail them for $39.00 a pair.

 

[Fidena]

Qirrel, i buy vintage fabric whenever i find it but haven't come across any vintage heavy twill (45 degree grooved) lining yet of that exact type. would love to find some.

Fidena, to reproduce a suit like that the right sort of fabric (inside and out) is crucial in my opinion. it would also help to have a suit on hand to closely copy the finish and details from.
the cut would be the easy bit.

I found some heavy, 100% wool twill. Any chance it'd be good "vintage suit" quality?

http://www.trimfabric.com/3f-185.html