The quality of a suit

[Matt Deckard]

I don't know, I think the lint gets lost in the texture sometimes.

 

[Dan D]

Cotton suits

Avedwards: I can certainly recommend suits in cotton, they are light, breathable, and can be laundered domestically if necessary; although not excessively. I've a hand steamer that I use when the fabric wrinkles, and it returns the suit to a near-new pressed state.

In my experience, wrinkles in cotton don't fall out half as readily as they do in woollen suits that are hung after wearing, but with a steamer and the occasional machine-wash if the suit gets particularly soiled, you can look after a cotton suit more readily at home and use the dry-cleaners infintely fewer times.

 

[avedwards]

Just a question

It seems unneccessary to post a whole new thread for a simple question, so I'll just be a bit fftopic:.

Can someone tell me why most suits have felt backed collars? What difference does the precence of the felt make to the suit? I have one casual summer sports coat without felt underneath the collar and it is in no way worse than my regular wool suits which have the felt.

 

[RM Bantista]

This is one of my great annoyances, and yet another reason I hate spending so much time in the car. I should be putting on my jacket to go somewhere, not taking it off. And it just seems undignified to have to stand next to the car and futz with my jacket. I should be able to put myself together before I step out the door, and leave it at that.

This is what I do do. I put the outfit together and don't take the jacket off. I ride in the car with the coat on my person. I go for a walk in the summer, winter, spring, fall, rain or wind and sit at my desk after with my jacket on. I do not see a wrinkle problem with wool or silk or viscose or other synthetics and blends. I don't have every classic fabric as a reference, but I don't see this issue in evidence in my experience. Linen or cotton I would suspect would give different results. Tweeds aren't a problem. I do not understand the need to remove one's coat for most everyday activities.

I live in a relatively dry climate area at relatively high altitude which may produce a different result than one might have at sea level nearer the coastline, for example.

Rudy

 

[RM Bantista]

It seems kind of strange that they would put the pocket material in there but leave the opening shut. Is there a reason they would do that?

Edit: Okay, I used a seam splitter and opened mine up and they were just as you say. So at least I can use the pockets now. Thanks!

Yes, there is. Some persons would prefer not to use the pockets as the material may sag with use or the overall shape of the line will change with items in the pockets.

Ordinarily, the running stitch may be pulled out by hand without tools, like opening a bag of dogfood for example... I have used a pocket knife to open a seam which wouldn't cooperate otherwise.

I tend to use all available pockets for something or other when they are present. I carry alot of items on an everyday basis, and if I'm not wearing a coat as one may not be on a weekend, I wonder sometimes where to carry every single thing I wish to have immediately available to me when out and about.

Rudy

 

[Lokar]

It seems unneccessary to post a whole new thread for a simple question, so I'll just be a bit fftopic:.

Can someone tell me why most suits have felt backed collars? What difference does the precence of the felt make to the suit? I have one casual summer sports coat without felt underneath the collar and it is in no way worse than my regular wool suits which have the felt.

I've never read anything about it, but my guesses are either to prevent the collar rubbing against the jacket wearing away, or, more likely, to hide the construction of the lapel and collar - my sports jackets don't have it, and they're very casual, my suits have them, which is more formal, and then if you look at formal wear, more stitching and construction is covered (e.g. seams are covered on trousers for black tie).

I don't know for certain, but I'd guess it's one of those two.

 

[Tomasso]

Can someone tell me why most suits have felt backed collars?

The various interlinings (canvas chest, pad stitched lapel, shoulder wadding, felt collar, etc...) used in the construction of a tailored jacket serve as the bones of the garment. They are employed to produce and maintain the intended shape of the garment. The collar is actually the most stressed area of a jacket so it needs a strong yet relatively soft (for comfort) interlining to lend it the strength to keep its form and felt has long been the preferred material for the task.

 

[Lamplight]

Yes, there is. Some persons would prefer not to use the pockets as the material may sag with use or the overall shape of the line will change with items in the pockets.

Yeah, that makes sense. I, too, like to use my pockets, and I have a habit of putting one hand in a jacket pocket occasionally when I'm wearing a suit. Not sure why.

 

[Matt Deckard]

With this Mad Men, Boardwalk Empire, Playboy Club and Pan-Am TV era upon us, do you think off the peg suits are getting better? I've seen Brooks Brothers and other brands turning to heavier cloths, yet not always in dressy business patterns, but they are aiming toward heavier.

 

[Qirrel]

Ive seen some changes in internal finishing, and many more interesting fabrics. If they could just stop being such slobs and make high armholes I would be a good customer.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Can you make me a cap?

 

[Fidena]

Hey Matt, could you tell me what type of fabric these fellows' suits are made of? I agree with you about the thicker suit = quality thing, and I was wondering if I could get a suit made like one of these.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Hey Matt, could you tell me what type of fabric these fellows' suits are made of?

I'm not Matt, but I'll take a stab at an answer. The chances are very high that these suits are made of wool serge. Navy blue, probably.

 

[Fidena]

I'm not Matt, but I'll take a stab at an answer. The chances are very high that these suits are made of wool serge. Navy blue, probably.

I'm liking serge the more I see it. It has a really nice weight and thickness to it, at least from what I can gather from pictures. Do you have any experience with old suits like these? Probably made around 1919, the "novelty suit" period. Sort of an experimental mix between the length of a frock and the look of a sack.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Do you have any experience with old suits like these? Probably made around 1919, the "novelty suit" period. Sort of an experimental mix between the length of a frock and the look of a sack.

Yes, I've seen and felt a few in person.

 

[Qirrel]

I have an example from 1912. (Styled pretty much exactly like some of the suits in the photograph.) It is black, made from a weighty, very heavily milled cloth.

Can you make me a cap?

You mean me? (Well sure, if you want one.)

 

[Fidena]

I have an example from 1912. (Styled pretty much exactly like some of the suits in the photograph.) It is black, made from a weighty, very heavily milled cloth.




You mean me? (Well sure, if you want one.)

Do you have any pictures of it? I'd love to see it.

 

[Qirrel]

Do you have any pictures of it? I'd love to see it.

I can take some tomorrow when there is daylight.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'm not Matt, but I'll take a stab at an answer. The chances are very high that these suits are made of wool serge. Navy blue, probably.

The fabric is still available, and in the right weights to make a tough wearing suit.

 

[Fidena]

The fabric is still available, and in the right weights to make a tough wearing suit.

I've been hard pressed to find a good weight that isn't half poly.