THE MALLORY MILE

[MikeinRome]

I haven't looked at size tags yet, partly because I haven't found enough hats to make a population of hats to study. Just identified several more last night. Will take your advice to look at size tags, where they still exist.

As I've repeatedly said, this is a theory I'm working on, but at least it has some basis in fact. Your theory about retailers having different liners to choose from may be correct, but I'm not aware of any evidence to support that. If and when I see hats with the Renowned Since phrase that are clearly beyond the Stetson transitional period, then I will gladly abandon my theory.

 

[buler]

That Dallas with the XV liner was probably a replaced liner. I've never seen a Dallas/XV mix before. That's not saying it could never happen. Just when you think you can state a fact about hats, there is something to refute it. I will say that I can only remember seeing the "renowned since" phrase on XV liners. Again, that's not saying it wasn't ever used on another model. I've never gone down the rabbit hole to try to track when the XV model first showed up. That may be interesting.

 

[MikeinRome]

That Dallas with the XV liner was probably a replaced liner. I've never seen a Dallas/XV mix before. That's not saying it could never happen. Just when you think you can state a fact about hats, there is something to refute it. I will say that I can only remember seeing the "renowned since" phrase on XV liners. Again, that's not saying it wasn't ever used on another model. I've never gone down the rabbit hole to try to track when the XV model first showed up. That may be interesting.

Interesting observation, if Renowned Since was only used on XV's. Some of these Renowned liners also say XV, while others don't include that. Don't know if those hats ar marked elsewhere as XV's.

 

[MikeinRome]

Since I wrote the post last week about my possible Dallas precursor Mallory XV and discussed Mallory hat liners with the phrase "Renowned Since 1823" and "Renowned Since 1817" which I theorized were in the period right before and right after the Stetson takeover of Mallory, it just so happened that I've found another hat with this same phrase, a hat with the 1817 date. I just bought it online as a hat rescue project and received it today, unaware that I'd bought a hat with this phrase. The hat has no sweatband so that information is lost, but it's clearly not a Mallory Dallas, so we now know that the "Renowned Since" phrase wasn't limited just to Dallas model hats. This hat has a brim about 2 7/8 inches, the felt is fairly thick and very soft and pliable. Photos attached. View attachment 435607 View attachment 435608 View attachment 435609

This Mallory project hat of mine turns out to be a Mallory XV per the liner. The liner is so faded it's hard to read and I hadn't noticed the XV until I looked again after it was mentioned to me that the Renowned Since phrase was commonly found on XV's.

 

[Frunobulax]

As I've repeatedly said, this is a theory I'm working on, but at least it has some basis in fact. Your theory about retailers having different liners to choose from may be correct, but I'm not aware of any evidence to support that. If and when I see hats with the Renowned Since phrase that are clearly beyond the Stetson transitional period, then I will gladly abandon my theory.

Interesting ad from the Mallory MADness thread (1924).

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/mallory-madness-chronological-ads.58995/post-2734729

 

[Blare]

1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler

 

[quikrick]

View attachment 443038
1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

View attachment 443039 View attachment 443040
View attachment 443041

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

View attachment 443042 View attachment 443043 View attachment 443044 View attachment 443045 View attachment 443046 View attachment 443047

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler

That’s a beautiful hat. I absolutely *LOVE* the finish. Great catch. Props to your wife’s good sense!

 

[Blare]

That’s a beautiful hat. I absolutely *LOVE* the finish. Great catch. Props to your wife’s good sense!

Thank you Rick… I might be said… if I didn’t have hers.. I might have none

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Mallory XV. Size 7 1/4 with a 5 5/8” open crown and 2 1/8” wide brim with a Cavanagh/felted edge. The felt is wonderful: very light, easily dry shaped, and holds any crease. I know this is a later XV, so I’m pleasantly surprised at how nice the felt is.

The only thing I found behind the supple sweatband was the union sticker.

 

[Rmccamey]

View attachment 443038
1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

View attachment 443039 View attachment 443040
View attachment 443041

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

View attachment 443042 View attachment 443043 View attachment 443044 View attachment 443045 View attachment 443046 View attachment 443047

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler

Excellent hat, Joe.

 

[Blare]

Excellent hat, Joe.

Thank you Randy

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Another late in the series XV. It sill has true vintage felt that is easily dry creased and of course the Cavanagh felted edge. The brim is 2 1/8” wide and the open crown is 5 1/2 inches. Great condition.

 

[BobHufford]

Mallory "Classic".

 

[PanosChris]

Mallory "Classic".

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Seems you've hit a goldmine, Bob

 

[BobHufford]

Seems you've hit a goldmine, Bob

Thanks Panos! Glad to see your return to the Lounge and to see you knocking them back once more.

 

[PanosChris]

View attachment 443038
1930s Mallory - Black/Charcoal Heather Melusine
4 1/2 crown as shape (approx 5 1/2 open)
2 inch black grosgrain ribbon
2 1/4 brim underwelt brim
2 inch black sweatband

View attachment 443039 View attachment 443040
View attachment 443041

So here is a hat that several of you kindly pointed me in the direction of probably over a year ago… including Jonathan @TheOldFashioned, Jim @Frunobulax and @Randall Renshaw and probably a few others. It remained on my watch list for more than a year as the seller slowly lowered his price and for one reason or another I never made the purchase. My wife finally pulled the trigger on it as a birthday present. For $23.99 with shipping included… it arrived in a plastic envelope! FLAT as a pancake! I was able to get it into a reasonable shape by hand yesterday and spent some time steaming it up today. Not bad! I must say! The hat arrived smelling of cigarettes, which dissipated after setting in the sun.. but while steaming it released a very sweet smell of something like cherry tobacco.

So I’m told this Mallory Established 1823 tombstone logo tends to point to mid 20s to 30s. The United Hatters, Cap And Millinery Union Workers tag indicates 1934 or later…. So I’m gonna guess mid 1930s. Unusual for the era black sweatband at about two inches. The super soft long hair felt is a black/charcoal heather. It is extremely soft and malleable.. but steam really helped to keep a shape. The brim comes in at 2 1/4 with a tight almost blind stitched underwelt. Can’t decide if I like it better brim up or down.. luckily I don’t have to choose. Thanks the everyone who tried to steer me toward this beauty.

View attachment 443042 View attachment 443043 View attachment 443044 View attachment 443045 View attachment 443046 View attachment 443047

PS… it looks to have the same stylings as a green one posted in this thread many years by @buler

Sorry Joe, I missed that during my absence! As you, I had this one on my watchlist for a looong time but never pulled the trigger, seeing it now I realize I should have, but I am very happy you (your wife) did! Great hat!!

 

[Mighty44]

Mallory "Classic".

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Gorgeous…

 

[Frunobulax]

Mallory "Classic".

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Great lightweight, Bob. I don't know that we've seen a "Classic" before. Pity about the size.

 

[BobHufford]

Gorgeous…

Great lightweight, Bob. I don't know that we've seen a "Classic" before. Pity about the size.

Thanks David and Jim! Someone will be happy about that size I'm sure -- just not me.

 

[Blare]

Sorry Joe, I missed that during my absence! As you, I had this one on my watchlist for a looong time but never pulled the trigger, seeing it now I realize I should have, but I am very happy you (your wife) did! Great hat!!

Thank you Panos. Good to see you back around. Hopefully we will get some cooler days here where I can take advantage of its furry felt.