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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I think too often we think of wool felt fedoras and trilbies as starter hats. They are the gateway to the better fur felt hats. Wool felt hats are maligned as shapeless aberrations that shrink in a light mist. While there are no doubt low quality wool felts hats out there, and even the better ones can't take the place of fur felt for dress occasions, there are a lot of fine wool hats that some are missing out on.

Some reserve wool for caps, but insist on fur for fedoras. I've found that even with some outdoorsy fur felt Akubra brimmed hats, there are times when a wool felt fedoras is just the perfect hat for the occasion. I'm not saying that a fur felt hat couldn't have also filled the need, I just saying that the wool hat filled it as perfectly as a hat could.

Good wool fedoras deal well with rain and snow and require just a bit of care to last for years. I'll never give up my fur felt hats, and I won't wear a wool felt homburg or a wool fedora (my personal choice) if the attire is dressy, but I will not stop wearing my wool felt fedoras. In the end, we all develop our own sartorial ascetics and we should not be shackled by strict convention. If your looking to throw away your wool felt hats keep me in mind; I'm a size 7 5/8.

Feel free to add your opinions and insights. There's always something more I can learn.
 
Messages
10,847
Location
vancouver, canada
I think too often we think of wool felt fedoras and trilbies as starter hats. They are the gateway to the better fur felt hats. Wool felt hats are maligned as shapeless aberrations that shrink in a light mist. While there are no doubt low quality wool felts hats out there, and even the better ones can't take the place of fur felt for dress occasions, there are a lot of fine wool hats that some are missing out on.

Some reserve wool for caps, but insist on fur for fedoras. I've found that even with some outdoorsy fur felt Akubra brimmed hats, there are times when a wool felt fedoras is just the perfect hat for the occasion. I'm not saying that a fur felt hat couldn't have also filled the need, I just saying that the wool hat filled it as perfectly as a hat could.

Good wool fedoras deal well with rain and snow and require just a bit of care to last for years. I'll never give up my fur felt hats, and I won't wear a wool felt homburg or a wool fedora (my personal choice) if the attire is dressy, but I will not stop wearing my wool felt fedoras. In the end, we all develop our own sartorial ascetics and we should not be shackled by strict convention. If your looking to throw away your wool felt hats keep me in mind; I'm a size 7 5/8.

Feel free to add your opinions and insights. There's always something more I can learn.
I read the heading of the Posting and the smart ass snob in me replied....."Yes, there is a place, called a dustbin!" but that is my smaller snobbier self replying not the tolerant open minded person I really am.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I'm not informed enough to have an opinion on the European wool hats mentioned.

My original intent was to show some love for the more budget oriented current production hats such as Pendleton, Orvis, Beretta, etc. when I'm in the woods birding or when I'm cutting firewood or if I'm walking the dogs in the forest, I often wear a wool felt fedora and choose them over my fur felt hats. Sometimes I'll even wear a cap (don't think less of me).
 

FedOregon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,134
Location
Oregon
I donated my wool hat to a charitable organization, and replaced it with an old Stratton western that I had Mike Miller convert to an Outback style outdoorsy hat. It's now my go to hat for hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, etc.
 

hbenthow

Familiar Face
Messages
66
Location
Columbia, Ms.
Does anyone know of some high-quality (in both construction and design) wool fedoras that are made in a 1930s-1940s style?

Is the wool version of the Stetson Chatham fedora high quality?
 
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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Does anyone know of some high-quality (in both construction and design) wool fedoras that are made in a 1930s-1940s style?

Is the wool version of the Stetson Chatham fedora high quality?

I have no experience with the Chatham. From the thread it's obvious that I like wool felt fedoras; however, I'll be the first to acknowledge their shortcomings. If you want a classical styled hat I'm not sure why you would eschew fur felt in favor of wool. To me, wool felt fedoras are for more rugged outdoors activities. I don't think it possible to make wool felt into a snap brim?

The difference in price (when shopping around) between a wool felt hat by stetson and a fur felt hat by one of several makers does not make the Stetson much of a bargain. I recently purchased a new fur felt Stetson Tempe for $89. If you wanted at sub $40-50 brimmed hat for fishing or hiking I'd look for wool. Both materials have their place, but for a classically shaped and constructed fedora, fur is the way to go. Perhaps you could share your thinking on why you want a wool version?
 

Lean'n'mean

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,087
Location
Cloud-cuckoo-land
Wool felt hats definately have a place in my world. I don't know much about wool fedoras but wool outback/cowboy type hats perform very well in the great outdoors with an added bonus that you don't have to pamper them. I don't think wool felt hats can be as fine or sharp as fur felts due to their thickness but I do consider a good quality wool felt superior to a poor quality fur felt in terms of functionality. Overall I prefer fur felt but I will always give a wool felt hat a chance rather than immediately dismissing it out of sheer snobbery. :D
 
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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
In my case, I just find the idea of wearing something made with fur taken from a dead pelt rather unpleasant. Wool seems far more "sanitary" to me, for lack of a better term.

Fair enough. We all have our own sensibilities. Wool does have its limitations, as does fur, and wool does not easily or normally make for finely finished dress hats. I'd recommend looking at the hats in person before you buy. Although I have never personally handled one, there are also fedora made out of cashmere that might be more satisfactory for a classically styled and constructed fedora. You might want any to do a search for one.

Seeing how I don't known your level of experience, have you handled a fur felt hat? Most people who aren't into hats wouldn't even think that the hat was made of fur. As an aside, wool tends to be much more porous than fur and has the greater capacity to become unsanitary. Still, if fur is a nonstarter for your own reasons I bet you can make due with a wool hat. If you have the chance to handle several I would like to hear of your impressions and what you ultimately decide on.
 

RJR

Messages
10,620
Location
Iowa
Fair enough. We all have our own sensibilities. Wool does have its limitations, as does fur, and wool does not easily or normally make for finely finished dress hats. I'd recommend looking at the hats in person before you buy. Although I have never personally handled one, there are also fedora made out of cashmere that might be more satisfactory for a classically styled and constructed fedora. You might want any to do a search for one.

Seeing how I don't known your level of experience, have you handled a fur felt hat? Most people who aren't into hats wouldn't even think that the hat was made of fur. As an aside, wool tends to be much more porous than fur and has the greater capacity to become unsanitary. Still, if fur is a nonstarter for your own reasons I bet you can make due with a wool hat. If you have the chance to handle several I would like to hear of your impressions and what you ultimately decide on.
+1 good advice.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
There's certainly aplace for wool brimmed hats. I do markedly prefer furfelt, but if I was looking for a beater for serious outdoor abuse, wool is definitely a good way to go. FWIW, I've seen and handled a numbero f wool felt hats I'd be very happy to consider buying, if only they had had a snap brim. I'd happily buy a wool boler or a homburg in an unusual colour that would be worn less often as those hold their shape nicely in wool.
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
In Europe Wool Stiff and Soft Felt hats were popular. The old (1940s and older) Wool Stiff Felts are fairly easy to find but not many of the old Wool Soft Felts survived. I have a good number of old German and Austrian Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats. They were mostly at the lower price point not always. They were actually Wool - Fur blends or expensive Wool types. Daniele has some (pre 1950s and later) Soft Felt examples for Italy and France.

Here is an interesting example of 1930s era German Wool Soft Felt.

"Gloria" Back Bow with Crease Clip

36706761212_92022e283d_b.jpg


36706883922_b8051530d6_b.jpg


36706919472_200547c348_b.jpg


36738250111_5bfabb1df4_b.jpg


36878068555_d98926355e_b.jpg


Brüder Böhm "Luxor" probably later 1930s

27345496722_bb7157c9cc_b.jpg


27445070155_2cca8d4480_b.jpg


27302675252_f500c41506_b.jpg


I have many examples of old German and Austrian Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats on my website. See URL below.
 
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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
there was a time when wool hats were quality ... @mayserwegener could show you some wonderful examples

however it is extremely rare to find a modern wool felt hat made with any quality whatsoever

hell ... it is pretty rare to find a modern mass produced fur felt hat made with much quality

Disposable fashion, innit? My much-loved Federation III Deluxe is starting to show signs of being past its best now, after ten years of very heavy wear. How many mainstream fashion items are now designed to last that long, in the context of fast-moving fashion?
 

hbenthow

Familiar Face
Messages
66
Location
Columbia, Ms.
Fair enough. We all have our own sensibilities. Wool does have its limitations, as does fur, and wool does not easily or normally make for finely finished dress hats. I'd recommend looking at the hats in person before you buy. Although I have never personally handled one, there are also fedora made out of cashmere that might be more satisfactory for a classically styled and constructed fedora. You might want any to do a search for one.

Seeing how I don't known your level of experience, have you handled a fur felt hat? Most people who aren't into hats wouldn't even think that the hat was made of fur. As an aside, wool tends to be much more porous than fur and has the greater capacity to become unsanitary. Still, if fur is a nonstarter for your own reasons I bet you can make due with a wool hat. If you have the chance to handle several I would like to hear of your impressions and what you ultimately decide on.

I believe that I've only handled one fur felt hat. It seemed quite nice, but having never handled a wool felt hat, I have no way to make a comparison. The vast majority of my fedora experience is with Milan straw.

I looked up cashmere felt hats after seeing your comment, and found out about "Cashlux" (cashmere/premium wool blend) felt hats, of which there are a few by several brands. Cashmere and Cashlux appear to be very high-quality, more or less the ideal hat felt material in my view. Unfortunately, I'm not overly pleased with the designs I've seen so far. A few look fairly good, but none have a design quite as pleasant to my eyes as that of Stetson's wool Chatham or several other wool fedoras that I've seen.

This is the best-looking Cashlux hat that I've seen so far:

https://www.hats-plus.com/p-539-guerra-cashlux-fedora-hat.aspx?

I have a Bailey's Wool Felt fedora that I wear and I have gotten more compliments on it than I have my fur felt hats. :confused: Maybe it's the feather...

Which one do you have?

FWIW, I've seen and handled a numbero f wool felt hats I'd be very happy to consider buying, if only they had had a snap brim.

There are plenty of wool felt fedoras that have snap brims. A few examples (in addition to the Cashlux example linked to above, which also has a snap brim):

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-chatham-wool-fedora-hat/

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-frederick-wool-fedora-hat/

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-whippet-wool-fedora-hat/

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-barr-lanolux-6355.html

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-gangster-wool-felt-capone-style-6491.html

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-crushable-litefelt-fedora-9864.html

there was a time when wool hats were quality ... @mayserwegener could show you some wonderful examples

Interesting. Do you know if any are affordable today?

I have many examples of old German and Austrian Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats on my website. See URL below.

Very interesting.
 
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XB234C

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
Montana
I believe that I've only handled one fur felt hat. It seemed quite nice, but having never handled a wool felt hat, I have no way to make a comparison.

I looked up cashmere felt hats after seeing your comment, and found out about "Cashlux" (cashmere/premium wool blend) felt hats, of which there are a few by several brands. Cashmere and Cashlux appear to be very high-quality, more or less the ideal hat felt material in my view. Unfortunately, I'm not overly pleased with the designs I've seen so far. A few look fairly good, but none have a design quite as pleasant to my eyes as that of Stetson's wool Chatham or several other wool fedoras that I've seen.

This is the best-looking Cashlux hat that I've seen so far:

https://www.hats-plus.com/p-539-guerra-cashlux-fedora-hat.aspx?



Which one do you have?



There are plenty of wool felt fedoras that have snap brims. A few examples:

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-chatham-wool-fedora-hat/

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-frederick-wool-fedora-hat/

http://www.one2miniranch.com/stetson-whippet-wool-fedora-hat/

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-barr-lanolux-6355.html

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-gangster-wool-felt-capone-style-6491.html

https://www.fedoras.com/bailey-of-hollywood-crushable-litefelt-fedora-9864.html



Interesting. Do you know if any are affordable today?



Very interesting.
It was advertised as the Bailey Crushable Fedora Sam Spade Model

https://www.hats-plus.com/p-437-bailey-crushable-fedora-hat.aspx
 

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