The Complete Guide to suits: 57 Rules of Style

[olive bleu]

A friend of mine posted this on Facebook.... Thought some of you might find it interesting....

http://www.details.com/style-advice/rules-of-style/201209/mens-suits-tailoring-guide?currentPage=1


I'm curious as to how many of these "rules" you think are accurate and how many are total hooey.

 

[SteveAS]

I disagree with the second part of rule 31: "Your jacket sleeves should reveal about half an inch of shirt cuff. If they don't, try a short size instead—you could save yourself a trip to the tailor later on."

I disagree with the idea of getting a short size if it means the body length would be too short. I'd rather pay to have the cuffs shortened.

 

[Fastuni]

Well apart from the "common sense" advice (like cutting off labels or valuing good fit) there is a lot of subjective stuff...
the following "rules" are hooey in my book:

10, 11, 22, 23, 24 (haha), 25, 32, 34, 35

Biggest crock: 27

Of course this "guide" is addressing contemporary fashion palates, while my preference are Mid-30's to Mid-40's suits, so I would never subscribe to the notion that a double vented, slim fitting Super-1000 suit is something to strive for.

 

[Two Types]

Rule 35

"A slightly cropped overcoat will elongate your silhouette."

They illustrate this with an overcoat that reaches the mid-thigh.

Note to author: a coat that only reaches the mid-thigh is not an overcoat!

 

[Tomasso]

Look at the fabric stressing at the inseam. Yeah, that looks good.

 

[Stray Cat]

I am sending this to my brother right NOW!
He keeps asking me questions I couldn't possible know how to answer. So, this might help him.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Modern fashion rules just don't work with vintage style. They are fashion and therefore only valid for a short time period. Maybe 5 years or so.

 

[Two Types]

I agree that many of 'the rules' don't work with vintage suits. That said, it is always good to see people making an effort to wear suits - even if they aren't suits that i would wear.

 

[herringbonekid]

i always thought leaving your working cuff buttons open was a bit naff too. a lazy way of saying "hey everyone, this is bespoke get it ? bespoke !".
now working cuff buttons and pick stitched lapels are done by every other brand and are no longer a quick signifier of a bespoke suit.

overall this 'guide' isn't as fashion biased as i was expecting. a few of the basics are present and correct, such as half an inch of shirt cuff, and trousers on the natural waist (although a lot of modern men think their 'natural waist' is were their hips are).

 

[Rudie]

I wonder about showing cuff. I always thought this is how it's done and it looks good to me. But I find many vintage photographs where people sport jackets with long sleeves without showing any cuff. So it is probably a more recent rule, no?

 

[Fastuni]

The notion that ideally some cuff is shown existed already back then.
However indeed it was quite common (particularly on Sports suits/coats) to have longer sleeves showing absolutely no cuff (of course not excessively long like often today).

Most photos (both "real" and "fashion photography") and illustrations where I have seen these long sleeves are Continental European and from the late 1930's. Probably it was fashionable.

 

[Two Types]

Shirt cuffs: I believe there was a period in the late 1930s (circa 1938?) where it became fashionable to wear jacket sleeves very short, showing more cuff than is normally accepted. I'd be interesed to know if anyone else has heard of this fashion.

Working cuffs: Whilst I understand why people consider the opening of working cuff buttons as a bit flash, I often do it when eating. I like to open and turn back the cuffs to keep them out of the way. This may seem a bit over the top but it helps keeps the cuffs clean.

 

[Fastuni]

I believe there was a period in the late 1930s (circa 1938?) where it became fashionable to wear jacket sleeves very short, showing more cuff than is normally accepted. I'd be interesed to know if anyone else has heard of this fashion.

Odd. I have material from Germany and Finland from 1938 showing very long sleeves that show no cuff whatsoever. (Will add the photos soon.)

Maybe a different trend in Britain?

 

[herringbonekid]

Working cuffs: Whilst I understand why people consider the opening of working cuff buttons as a bit flash, I often do it when eating.

if you do it for a reason that's fine. from the 80s on it seemed that everyone who wore a bespoke suit had to have three visual cues to signpost the fact: the working cuff buttons open, prominent pick stitching around the lapels, and flashy lining (preferably red). thankfully all three have been adopted by RTW brands, so the flash Harry's will have to rethink their line of attack.

 

[herringbonekid]

if you're Jean Cocteau you can do what you like with your cuffs.

 

[Two Types]

Prominent pick-stitching around the lapels: that is one of my real dislikes and is something I would personally never consider for a suit. It might be right for some people but not for me.

 

[herringbonekid]

me neither; looks too modern.

 

[dhermann1]

The general tone of this whole article seems to be oriented to young men who never were really exposed to men wearing proper suits on a regular basis during their growing up. Victims of post 60s ubiquitous hipness.
The general aesthetic is hipsterism.
Rules I have issues with would be:

3. Polka Dots???
7. Short waistcoat? I think not.
16. I agree with the no bulky watch rule. You see it a lot.
18. Flipping the collar up? Hipsters only!
21. Likewise, short trouser length. Hipsters only.
31. Cuff exposure. Totally agree. Just under half an inch.
33. Your waist should be at your waist. Mens clothing manufacturers, are you listening?
42. The issue of variations of the same color working together. Can work or be AWFUL.

 

[Benny Holiday]

To purposely mis-quote a much-talked about book in Australia of late:

The Complete Guide To Modern Suits: 57 Shades of Grey.

lol lol lol

 

[Matt Deckard]

Prominent pick-stitching around the lapels: that is one of my real dislikes and is something I would personally never consider for a suit. It might be right for some people but not for me.

I agree with this. With the light fabrics of today it tends to make the suits look cheap to my eye. I o however like a machine stitch a quarter inch in from the edge. But pick stitching always ads an unsightly ripple to the edge from the get go.