The Complete Guide to suits: 57 Rules of Style

[Baron Kurtz]

And every one of them, except the first, silly/overly prescriptive/dependent-on-personal-taste-and/or-time/era-of-learning-so-not-really-rules!

 

[Steveb1]

And every one of them, except the first, silly/overly prescriptive/dependent-on-personal-taste-and/or-time/era-of-learning-so-not-really-rules!

I disagree, they are rules. It is your choice whether or not to follow or deviate from, as many do (and as do I on occasion). But the topic of the thread are Rules and these are none the less.

 

[Dinerman]

And every one of them, except the first, silly/overly prescriptive/dependent-on-personal-taste-and/or-time/era-of-learning-so-not-really-rules!

Seconded. The "rules" change as often as fashion. People who don't do the research often retroactively apply silly modern "rules" to eras in which the "rule" either did not exist or was actually the opposite. There were times when it was the proper thing to do to button all your suits buttons. In the 1910s, it was fashionable to only button the bottom button of a 3 button suit. There were times when suits had higher button stances and you did not unbutton them when sitting. In the 1920s, the cuffs of pants were worn high, and showed off your boot or your socks. And so on. . .

 

[Two Types]

Rules? The 'rules' have changed constantly and will keep changing as long as fashions change. So much so that they are all but worthless.

As I see it, the rules are, were, and always will be dictated by what is accepted as 'the norm'.

Surely the whole point of the FL is not to follow what is accepted as the norm? Otherwise we'd all be wearing 8oz plain grey suits that didn't fit, with a waistcoat that didn't meet our trousers and cheap super-pointy shoes - either that or skinny jeans that don't fit ("Oi! Put some jam on yer shoes and invite your trousers down to tea!"), no socks, riding a child's bike etc etc etc.

rule 1: Wear clothes that fit.
rule 2: Wear what you like, when you like and - if you can - wear it with style.

I might also add a final rule, although it should be obvious:

rule 3: Don't wear clothes that stink!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

hmmmm. They may be rules by which you operate, but to apply them to others is the height of self obsession. For each of those except fit, with which I agree (it's just aesthetically unpleasing to see a badly fitted suit), I would seek an objective reason why it should be considered a rule. I've never agreed that single breasted jackets look bad when buttoned and sitting, for example. This one got credence recently with that silly biopic about that newsreader a few years back. Shirt sleeve showing below the hem of the jacket sleeve is just personal taste. Personally I don't like it very much; I find it aesthetically unpleasing and fit my shirts short so they don't show.

re: buttoning a 3-button SB jacket. Your rule of "top or middle" button buttoned is one I haven't heard before. These things are purely a matter of personal taste - nothing objective about them at all. It's all about what looks good.

I disagree, they are rules. It is your choice whether or not to follow or deviate from, as many do (and as do I on occasion). But the topic of the thread are Rules and these are none the less.

 

[Tommy]

Cary Grant:

[/QUOTE]

what is the black around his neck? Those trousers rise higher than anything out there today. It appears they rise to wear the jacket is buttoned.

 

[Tomasso]

That would be a scarf/ascot.

 

[Hal]

what is the black around his neck?

That would be a scarf/ascot.

I had not noticed that. In the late 1950s - early 1960s that style was not uncommon in the UK, and in some circles such neckwear was always worn with an open-necked shirt - one might say that it made the open-necked shirt more acceptable.

 

[herringbonekid]

while i don't believe in clothing 'rules' i believe in good advice; the type of situation where someone asks "what should i wear with this mid-dark brown odd jacket ?"
the fact that "light grey flannels" will almost invariably be the reply points to some sort of shared common agreement about what sort of colours go together.

if the complete novice can be offered advice about such things as colour, fit, proportion (for a particular body type), combining textures and patterns etc. then it gives them a good basis from which to start discovering their own personal style.

 

[Two Types]

Agreed. The sort of threads where people ask 'What should I wear with this?' are especially useful, especially for those newcomers who know where they are going but don't know how to get there.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Words of wisdom, HBK. I answer to the newbie questions because I still learn a lot myself.

On the other hand I think some modern "rules" will discourage newcomers to wear vintage because they can't tell yet that some these "rules" are more a reflection of current fashion than classic style. So what we do here is to pick the useful tips from the fashionable blogger blabber.

 

[herringbonekid]

On the other hand I think some modern "rules" will discourage newcomers to wear vintage because they can't tell yet that some these "rules" are more a reflection of current fashion than classic style.

do you mean things like "don't wear high waisted trousers because you'll look like your grandad"

or "a tie should always be an inch below your waistband" ?

 

[Fastuni]

or "no brown shoes with blue suits", or "the sleeves must reach to the first knuckle of the thumb"... ^^
These two are the most annoying and often repeated "rules" I get to hear.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Yeah and both rules together will make it very disappointing to buy your first vintage pieces on ebay. The conclusion will be: I can't pull it of. It will make me look costumey/like a comedian.

 

[Edward]

or "no brown shoes with blue suits", or "the sleeves must reach to the first knuckle of the thumb"... ^^
These two are the most annoying and often repeated "rules" I get to hear.

When they say first knuckle of the thumb.... where do they mean? Where the thumb joins the hand, or the joint in the middle? (I've only ever rthought of knuckles as those four little bumps where my fingers join the hand. Is "first knuckle" an Americanism?).

 

[Fastuni]

Where the thumb joins the hand.
The "first" is just a redudancy typed by me. ;-)

 

[Feraud]

Rules are fine for men who have no idea how to dress. This is not meant as a negative, simply a fact.
Many men need standardized ideas of trouser length, collar fit, harmonious use of colors and patterns, etc.

Businesses, communities, fraternal groups, sub-cultures, adopt specific dress to identify and separate themselves from those not in their group. It's one of those quirky human traits best left to sociologists..

Other men have experience with dressing and can do without all the fancy rules.

Any conflict between the two is comparing apples and oranges..

 

[Metatron]

I will say this though: For someone looking to fit in in a straightforward way with his clothes, of course narrow trousers with low waists is the way to go!
Not everyone 'gets' the high waisted look.
You wouldn't want to go for that look if your objective is to be on trend...

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Each finger has 3 knuckles, the thumb has 2, at the joins between phalanges and the join between the distal phalanx and the metacarpal for each finger/thumb. Following the rule written by fastuni above, your jacket sleeve would cover most of your hand, with the fingers poking out the bottom.

My own view on the perfect arm length is to have the sleeve hem fall at the pisiform, fractionally below the base of the radius and ulna.

Apologies, far too much Gray's Anatomy as a student.

When they say first knuckle of the thumb.... where do they mean? Where the thumb joins the hand, or the joint in the middle? (I've only ever rthought of knuckles as those four little bumps where my fingers join the hand. Is "first knuckle" an Americanism?).

 

[herringbonekid]

Following the rule written by fastuni above, your jacket sleeve would cover most of your hand, with the fingers poking out the bottom.

the often quoted 'rule of thumb knuckle' is actually to do with jacket length, not sleeve length. i still couldn't tell you which knuckle it's meant to be.