Explaining the Aero Fit.

[Aloysius]

I’m still a bit lost on why someone would want to modify the PHWM into a Speedway when the Speedway exists, lol.

 

[DamonCyclee]

Unfortunately I don't think there is any way to make the Premier Highwayman to look or fit like the Speedway, because the way the Speedway jacket is made is different than rest of the Aero jacket construction.

There is a lot of curves in the Speedway:
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I got some Aero jackets and even the overall dimensions is similar to the Speedway, the fit is totally different because there the way the Speedway is assembled. The Speedway can't be flattened like the other Aero jackets. I think this contribute to the fit more than just the numbers.

One other thing to keep in mind is the big over hang of the Speedway in the front. Mine is size 42 with added length to 24" in the back, and this translate to 22" in the front with a 21" zipper.
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If you don't mind coming down to Kerrisdale I can let you try on the Speedway and PHwayman and another secret jacket or two. I think the Premier Highwayman can fit like the Flat Head copy if lengthened, but never like the Speedway fit.

Thanks, I may have to take up on your offer, but first I want to see what Aero has to say

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks, I may have to take up on your offer, but first I want to see what Aero has to say

They can do it, but might not with the Highwayman Label. All needs to be done is to curve the center back panel, and fill the two side panels accordingly. Right now their curve comes from two side panels not the center back panel:

I think the reason for this is to keep the "Highwayman" V design.

The Speedway and the Cafe Racer are actually more Y shaped back panel with the top V part curving out, so it gave the illusion of ) ( but is actually Y. Hard to do this to the PHwyman because there is no middle back break panel.

The Rainbow Country Highwayman size 42 is basically the Aero Premier Highwayman in size 44 with a curved Y shaped back panel and the regular Highwayman collar:

What I've learned:
Aero premier Highwayman size 44, with regular Highwayman collar (not August), with modified curved "Y" center back panel (and fill out with side gusset panels), in Horween CXL FQHH, with a Highwayman label, is my ultimate fantasy Highwayman jacket. The one ring that rule them all.

I am interested to see what Aero says what you can or cannot modify on the PHwyman order. Please keep us posted...

 

[whitebananafarmer]

Hi all - thank you so much for all the help on the Aero fit (I've found @Canuck Panda to be especially helpful with the incredibly detailed responses... I totally agree on the neck thing being one defining aspect of fit). In lieu of starting yet another thread for Aero fit advice, I thought I would just ask in this thread given the collective wisdom already accumulated and to avoid spamming the board.

I am not a stranger at all to Aero, having ordered from them for >10 years both from Thurston Bros and also Aero directly. In general, I really love Aero and - despite trying a bunch of other makers - still consider them a (the?) mainstay in the industry. Of all the different jacket variations, most have actually fit reasonably well to very well... except one, which has vexed me for three jackets now. That's the classic half belt which is unfortuantely actually my favorite design.

I got my first 1930's half belt (size 38) in 2013 or 2014... after about 5 years of wear, I thought I could do better on the fit and decided to ultimately exchange for a Premier 1930's half belt (size 40) as I thought the slimmer profile would fit my sloped shoulders better. I then wore that jacket until very recently, when I replaced it with another one (Premier size 42) as the former was very tight in the chest and shoulders and I also had probably gained a little thickness in the upper body.

This last one has fit ok, except it's still somewhat tight in the chest / shoulders but most notably the neck. I went over this whole thread and I think Aero having patterns that are smaller in the neck is hurting me here in the fit. A picture of my proportions from my Himel review thread:

Note the sloped shoulders as well as very thick neck - I'm a size 16.5" neck which I believe is fairly disproportionate to my size M body, as I am 5'10" and 180 lbs. I think the problem with the fit on this last Premier 1930's (size 42) is down to the neck being too small and causing the pulling that Canuck described with the small neck and also my massively slopped shoulders. See below:

Full pic:

The measurements of this jacket are (I define waist as literally the halfway point between P2P and the bottom hem):

P2P: 22"
Waist: 21"
Hem: 20"
Back: 24.5"
Neck: 17.5"

My Himel bros jacket:

P2P: 22.25"
Waist: 20"
Hem: 20"
Back: 23.5" (but due to where the collar attaches, this still comes out slightly longer than the Aero's)
Neck: 19.5" (notice how much bigger the neck is)

And finally, my recent Aero Vincent in Badalassi (size 42) which IMO fits very well, as the pattern has a nice taper going down from the chest (and WOW is this jacket squeeky, though I do love it):

P2P: 23"
Waist: 21"
Hem: 19.5"
Back: 24.5"

Questions for the group, if you'd be so kind:

1. If we assume the Vincent fits well, does this lend itself to a 1930's half belt, a 1950's half belt, or a Premier 1930's half belt? Given that I've tried two Premier's now, I'm guessin that's not the answer, and so I am inclined to go back to the 1930's and just get size 40 instead of my original 38 from 10 years ago...

2. Does the 1950's pattern have a much bigger neck opening that would be a better fit? Can always slim down the waist / hem.

3. The Bootlegger looks AMAZING and I really want to get one after seeing @ton312 in this one. I think this is a 1950's pattern, just a different style, correct?

4. I'm trying to decide between HH and steerhide... if I went steerhide, would this be so much thicker that it could actually affect sizing for a jacket? I've never had a steerhide one before (as far as I remember).

Thanks in advance to all the much more knowledgable Aero customers here than myself, despite my own history with the company. I've also reached out to Aero directly to get their view as well.

 

[ton312]

Hi all - thank you so much for all the help on the Aero fit (I've found @Canuck Panda to be especially helpful with the incredibly detailed responses... I totally agree on the neck thing being one defining aspect of fit). In lieu of starting yet another thread for Aero fit advice, I thought I would just ask in this thread given the collective wisdom already accumulated and to avoid spamming the board.

I am not a stranger at all to Aero, having ordered from them for >10 years both from Thurston Bros and also Aero directly. In general, I really love Aero and - despite trying a bunch of other makers - still consider them a (the?) mainstay in the industry. Of all the different jacket variations, most have actually fit reasonably well to very well... except one, which has vexed me for three jackets now. That's the classic half belt which is unfortuantely actually my favorite design.

I got my first 1930's half belt (size 38) in 2013 or 2014... after about 5 years of wear, I thought I could do better on the fit and decided to ultimately exchange for a Premier 1930's half belt (size 40) as I thought the slimmer profile would fit my sloped shoulders better. I then wore that jacket until very recently, when I replaced it with another one (Premier size 42) as the former was very tight in the chest and shoulders and I also had probably gained a little thickness in the upper body.

This last one has fit ok, except it's still somewhat tight in the chest / shoulders but most notably the neck. I went over this whole thread and I think Aero having patterns that are smaller in the neck is hurting me here in the fit. A picture of my proportions from my Himel review thread:

View attachment 610053

Note the sloped shoulders as well as very thick neck - I'm a size 16.5" neck which I believe is fairly disproportionate to my size M body, as I am 5'10" and 180 lbs. I think the problem with the fit on this last Premier 1930's (size 42) is down to the neck being too small and causing the pulling that Canuck described with the small neck and also my massively slopped shoulders. See below:

View attachment 610056

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Full pic:

View attachment 610055

The measurements of this jacket are (I define waist as literally the halfway point between P2P and the bottom hem):

P2P: 22"
Waist: 21"
Hem: 20"
Back: 24.5"
Neck: 17.5"

My Himel bros jacket:

View attachment 610054

P2P: 22.25"
Waist: 20"
Hem: 20"
Back: 23.5" (but due to where the collar attaches, this still comes out slightly longer than the Aero's)
Neck: 19.5" (notice how much bigger the neck is)

And finally, my recent Aero Vincent in Badalassi (size 42) which IMO fits very well, as the pattern has a nice taper going down from the chest (and WOW is this jacket squeeky, though I do love it):

View attachment 610060

P2P: 23"
Waist: 21"
Hem: 19.5"
Back: 24.5"

Questions for the group, if you'd be so kind:

1. If we assume the Vincent fits well, does this lend itself to a 1930's half belt, a 1950's half belt, or a Premier 1930's half belt? Given that I've tried two Premier's now, I'm guessin that's not the answer, and so I am inclined to go back to the 1930's and just get size 40 instead of my original 38 from 10 years ago...

2. Does the 1950's pattern have a much bigger neck opening that would be a better fit? Can always slim down the waist / hem.

3. The Bootlegger looks AMAZING and I really want to get one after seeing @ton312 in this one. I think this is a 1950's pattern, just a different style, correct?

View attachment 610070

4. I'm trying to decide between HH and steerhide... if I went steerhide, would this be so much thicker that it could actually affect sizing for a jacket? I've never had a steerhide one before (as far as I remember).

Thanks in advance to all the much more knowledgable Aero customers here than myself, despite my own history with the company. I've also reached out to Aero directly to get their view as well.

Great looking stable of jackets you have there! That Bootlegger pic really takes me back! My daughter was still a baby, I had considerably more hair, I still rode my motorcycle, and somehow I thought those jeans were ok to post in a photo on the internet.

To answer your question yes the BL is a 50’s pattern and between the two, HH and Steer, the hide thickness is not a factor in fit. I’ve had heavy and lighter versions in both but there was no fit implication.

 

[Canuck Panda]

1. If we assume the Vincent fits well, does this lend itself to a 1930's half belt, a 1950's half belt, or a Premier 1930's half belt? Given that I've tried two Premier's now, I'm guessin that's not the answer, and so I am inclined to go back to the 1930's and just get size 40 instead of my original 38 from 10 years ago...

I would suggest to rule out the premier half belt. The vintage repro oblong neck hole doesn't work for you judging from the photos. So we are left with 30s HB and 50s HB. Unfortunately I don't know what the 50s HB is like. However I do have a Maxwell which is suppose to be the same as 30s HB just with buttons instead of zipper. And the Maxwell (30s HB) in size 42 has 23" P2P, 22" Hem (you can always get custom taper down a size), and the neck hole is decent. 30s half belt can be a contender, my Maxwell wears well.

In the above pic, Moonshiner is on the bottom of the pile, Maxwell is in the middle, and Sheene/Highwayman is on the top of the pile.
Moonshiner (button version of Bootlegger?), has the oblong and small neck hole for size 40 (23.5" P2P). I don't suggest this for your neck size. Neck hole is small and narrow, will be similar to your premier jacket.
Maxwell (button version of 30s HB) jacket in the middle, has the heart shaped neck hole, is the same as the one on BR Seven which I will assume is also similar to the Vincent (Ridley) you have. This is good. You would have to get a custom taper to get it more fitted at the hem and use the side adjuster to bring it in further for a close fit.
Sheene/Highwayman (I don't know what base pattern is, I ordered it as a Sheene) has not only the heart shaped neck hole, the collar is 19" linear length for size 42. This would be best for big neck guys imo. So it could be ordered as a Sheene/Half Belt? I don't know how it would work, but you can use my pics and ask Aero. More pics here,

New jacket: Aero Sheene crossed with Aero Highwayman

my wife looked a bit worried yesterday when I had the jacket on inside our flat :cool: That is an absolutely normal Fedora Lounge behavior.

www.thefedoralounge.com

My neck is 16" ish btw, and msot of my American size 42 jackets from modern US brands has 19" collar.
This is how the Sheene/Highwayman collar is measured,

4. I'm trying to decide between HH and steerhide... if I went steerhide, would this be so much thicker that it could actually affect sizing for a jacket? I've never had a steerhide one before (as far as I remember).

Leather thickness should not affect sizing much. If the pattern fits (neck hole and armholes), then it works. If it doesn't it doesn't.
For leather choices I would suggest CXL FQHH, CXL SH, Badalassi, and Pinnacle HH, most rigid to softest respectively. I left Vicenza out because a lot of other brands also uses it. Aero gets the best CXL imo. And best value on the Badalassi jackets.
The trickiest part is to find the one model/pattern that fits you.

Or just order a Vincent patterned Half Belt? The Vincent works for you judging from the pics, so the same fit but half belt.

 

[whitebananafarmer]

Thanks for the helpful responses. I think I'll go with a 1930's pattern halfbelt and then also a Bootlegger. Will discuss with Aero on best sizing / what stock P2P measurements are.