The Bowler or Derby Hat

[newturnofphrase]

The market may be somewhat more competitive for bowlers in 7 3/8, but $50 is a reasonable limit nonetheless. (I have sometimes gone higher than that.)

Another thing to keep in mind is that sizing with bowlers can be less forgiving than with soft felts. You can use steam to adjust the oval, but not the circumference.

Denton is correct. Sizes 6 3/4 through 7 1/4 are cheap because they are fairly common. Demand for larger-size (7 3/8 - 7 7/8) vintage bowlers is higher as they are rare. Not as rare as large top hats, but still scarce. Therefore I usually am willing to go up to $125-150. If I don't like it I can typically recoup the cost on reselling. Much higher than that and you'll lose money if you don't end up liking the hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

>>
Ebay UK has an even more plentiful selection and english hatmakers continued to make bowlers the proper way after blind brim stitching became a forgotten art stateside.
>>

Nobody makes a proper dress stiff felt hat anymore. What you see is a stiffer soft felt hat that has some what of stiff felt look. Patey makes a super stiff / heavy weight Bowler from Goss which is also not a traditional dress stiff felt of the early 20th century. The ability to make a proper dress stiff felt hat disappeared sometime in the 1960s. The zenith of making them was from the very late 1800s up to WWII. I prefer the super light weight models (for me the zenith) from that time period.

 

[mayserwegener]

The first 4 (all Melone) are new since my last update on 12/30/2012.

 

[ManofKent]

That's an amazing collection.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I sold some along the way but still have most of them.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

>>
Ebay UK has an even more plentiful selection and english hatmakers continued to make bowlers the proper way after blind brim stitching became a forgotten art stateside.
>>

Nobody makes a proper dress stiff felt hat anymore. What you see is a stiffer soft felt hat that has some what of stiff felt look. Patey makes a super stiff / heavy weight Bowler from Goss which is also not a traditional dress stiff felt of the early 20th century. The ability to make a proper dress stiff felt hat disappeared sometime in the 1960s. The zenith of making them was from the very late 1800s up to WWII. I prefer the super light weight models (for me the zenith) from that time period.

Oh yea, I acknowledge that. I just know that Herbert Johnson and Dunn co. were both selling bowlers with D'orsay curls after most american manufacturers had switched over to pencil brims and machine stitched brims. Not for a large amount of time, if I remember correctly hatmakers followed the same trend in the US when most were bought out by larger companies.

Patey bowlers share nothing in common with an actual vintage bowler, both in terms of how its made and stylistically, the brim and crown shape arent at all similar to any other bowler I have. And honestly I'm still a bit shocked at the material used to bind the brim and create the ribbon which is a very heavy duty nylon like you'd find on backpack straps. For a bespoke hat that costs as much as Pateys do, I'd expect a bit more quality materials being used.

 

[mayserwegener]

The felt preparation and high pressure blocking methods were also different than soft felts. The UK makers might have kept it going a bit longer than others but overall you see a degrading once you get into the 50s. Reduction of market and high labor costs (specialized hand work and machine operation) were big factors.

 

[OldCotton]

so after visiting a local antique shop this past weekend I did find a 7 3/8 bowler, where they were asking $44 for it. I was able to get them down to $25 for my first bowler. But this one is a bit unusual as it seems the headliner has been removed a some point, along with the head band. It also has a single tag saying 7 3/8 "to duplicate mention this number c-100". I hope I didn't over pay to much on this piece.

 

[bowlerman]

I'd say you took a really good deal and made it better. D'Orsay curls can't be duplicated at all anymore. Too bad the innards are gone but you could get a hatter to put some in for you.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

 

[ManofKent]

Looks a good buy.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Tiny little vented brown bowler. I saw this one at the last minute and didnt see the already answered question regarding the inside measurements. Oh well, i'm torn between selling it and sending to my little nephew and ensuring he'll be the best hatted second grader in his school.

 

[bowlerman]

Very cool! nice vent, too. Too bad it doesn't fit.

 

[ManofKent]

Nice little hat

 

[kolchak]

Stetson -

 

[mayserwegener]

OCMH & Joel, A great pair of Derbies!

 

[ManofKent]

Kolchak - looks great.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Very unfortunately I will be sending this one back for a return. This brown bowler is merely an impostor. A very faded black bowler is what was sent to me. Oh well, at least my dilemma of whether or not to keep it has been promptly solved.

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne Flexible, measures ~ 58cm, 155 grams, probably 1930s. This Melone is in excellent / seldom worn condition. Very unique liner color and sweatband.

 

[ManofKent]

Beautiful sweatband.

 

[flat-top]

Picked this one up at Aldo Shoes of all places! Part of the Mr. B's collection!