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The Bowler or Derby Hat

John Galt

Vendor
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2,080
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Chico
John, very nice! It's a shame the Stetsons original sweat was lost. Great looking derbys you have there!

Thanks. It _is_ a shame, and it was really my own fault. I had just assumed they would save the sweat and use a quality ribbon and apply it in the same style because they knew I collect vintage hats. I will not make that mistake again.

Confessional - maybe someone will learn from my stupid mistakes:

I had another bad day last week when I gently pulled a NOS lightweight 6 7/8 hat (Edit: a Bee Hats Featherweight!) down a little too tight on my 7 to 7 1/8 head straight out of the box without conditioning the leather, and immediately split the sweat.

I also once used a baby wipe to clean some felt stiffener off of the hatband of a 1930's Stetson Playboy and stained it pink (this is usually ok in my experience - I believe it was a chemical reaction to the felt stiffener), but that time I was lucky enough to find a quality vintage replacement ribbon in the same color.

Dagnabit, I really hate it when I inadvertently damage these old hats!
 
Last edited:

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
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6,142
Location
Somewhere in Time
Pink, now that'd be interesting to see.... haha!

I too know the feeling of pulling down a smaller hat, and messing up the sweat. It's not fun, but hey, we learn from our mistakes. If we never made them, how would we learn?!
 

John Galt

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2,080
Location
Chico
Found myself at the office late tonight, and pulled out some more bowlers.

I'll start with the 1950's brown Mallory soft top.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369813560.066333.jpg

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369813649.819621.jpg
 

John Galt

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2,080
Location
Chico
Now, and finally, the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr," firmly dated from January 9, 1894 (or 95 - conflicting reports) when the company was founded in Danbury Connecticut to no later than February of 1900 when co-founder David Higson started advertising his new firm, Higson & Company, in Bethel, Connecticut. Note the wooden reed. Anyone know anything about them? I have seen a few now...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814194.125051.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814219.125098.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814236.424991.jpg

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(Played with that photo a bit to try to clarify it)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814554.905517.jpg

This last was with obituary of Higson.
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814760.921141.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814822.007916.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369814885.674864.jpg

I think it is odd that neither man was photographed in a hat. I recently saw a photo of a bunch of workers (at the old Mallory factory, I think) and noted that nary a one was wearing a hat or cap of any kind. Maybe it was a tradition or superstition?
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
Bios of both men (and many other distinguished Connecticut hatters) are in the Commemorative Biographical Record Of Fairfield County, Connecticut, which is available online.

A.B. Collings, pp. 1144-1145

David Higson, pp. 1152-1153

Stiff hat maker Edward Von Gal's bio is also there, at 1153. Von Gal's ads abound in The American Hatter and are also on eBay, but I've not yet seen a Von Gal hat on eBay or elsewhere.

I have more research if anyone has a H&C hat and wants more nitty gritty.
 
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17,514
Location
Maryland
Doberdadinmd, Fantastic Locke & Co. Bowler!

John Galt, Great series of Derbies! Would it be possible to weigh the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr"? Also does it have a liner?
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
Doberdadinmd, Fantastic Locke & Co. Bowler!

John Galt, Great series of Derbies! Would it be possible to weigh the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr"? Also does it have a liner?

I will weigh it & post soon. I haven't gotten it home from the office yet. It does not have a liner, and was made without one - presumably to reduce its' weight.

John
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
I will weigh it & post soon. I haven't gotten it home from the office yet. It does not have a liner, and was made without one - presumably to reduce its' weight.

John

Thanks! It would be the lightest stiff felt on the FL. Manfred's Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR Melone (German) is marked 70 grams (2.5 ounces) but that is the hat body weight. The overall weight with liner is about 115 grams (4.0 ounces) which is super light for a stiff fur felt hat. I have a wool Negretti Melone (German) that is about the same weight.

Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/20-rehfus-federleicht/#entry605
 

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