The Bowler or Derby Hat

[billysmom]

I've replaced the sweatband in my one of '20s Dobbs Derbies and kept it looking as original as possible, even folding over the top edge of the sweatband into the hat as was done back then. The only big difference was the exposed reed and tape from the modern sweatband. I have no idea who would do that today.

Brad

Brad -

That's some impressive needlework!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Sue

 

[Brad Bowers]

Brad -

That's some impressive needlework!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Sue

Thanks, Sue, but I can't take credit for the stitches that you see on the reed tape and sweat - it came from my supplier that way. But I tell you, my stitch awl method of sewing on sweatbands came in mighty handy on this Derby. I would have broken or bent many needles sewing it in without the awl. As it is, I broke one needle using the awl.

Brad

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

Brad, as always you're a wealth of helpful information. many thanks for all that.

So it is possible that this old Derby of mine is an early Dobbs? Do any of your old Dobbs' have a size tag like this one? As for the wire under the brim, I'll have a look when I get home and let you know.

Yes the brim binding is the sticking point that makes me think it may be too difficult to restore. I guess it may be worthwhile sending off an email to Art Fawcett or Optimo for an opinion. Perhaps my state Museum would also have an idea of any Australian hat restorers who may be around.

At the very least, I have a fantastic early Dobbs hatbox!

 

[Brad Bowers]

I haven't seen a tag like that on an old Dobbs. Even my C&K from 1896-1909 has a different style tag than that one. The tag and the way the brim is bound make me think it's a different manufacturer.

Brad

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

I haven't seen a tag like that on an old Dobbs. Even my C&K from 1896-1909 has a different style tag than that one. The tag and the way the brim is bound make me think it's a different manufacturer.

Brad

True enough Brad. Stetson, and I imagine most of the major manufacturers used branded tags. This one is generic perhaps indicating a small hatmaker. But I guess this is a forelorne search. We will never know where it came from.

The question is - can we rebuild it?!

And that tight brim curl does look turn of the 20th Cetury - pre WWI anyway.

 

[jamespowers]

The question is - can we rebuild it?!

And that tight brim curl does look turn of the 20th Cetury - pre WWI anyway.

It can be rebuilt. However, the only person I know who you could send it to for a new brim binding would likely be Optimo. No one else wants to tangle with that tightly curled brim.
I am sending in an old Poulton formerly owned by Senator Ed Martin. I guess it is worth spending a little money on. The only thing worn on it is the brim edge binding. Yes, the wire is showing and sneaking out. :eusa_doh:
I'll let you know how it goes---if I remember.

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

Thanks James. I'll flick an email to Optimo and see what they say.

And with this post I have popped onto my 1000th post and have thus ceased to be 'Practically Family" and reached "One too Many".

Hic...

 

[jamespowers]

Thanks James. I'll flick an email to Optimo and see what they say.

And with this post I have popped onto my 1000th post and have thus ceased to be 'Practically Family" and reached "One too Many".

Hic...

Flick them a phone call instead. They respond a whole lot faster.
1,000 posts? Amateur.

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

1,000 posts? Amateur.

Yep...I concede. Yours is much bigger than mine. Over 15,000!!

But...just where is that line between interest and obsession?? lol

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

Most of the Derbies I've seen from the C&K factory also have a metal wire hoop tucked underneath the brim edge for support. Does yours have this?

I've just had a look and, yes indeed Brad, there is a metal wire running under the inside of that curled brim. It's more pronounced on one side than the other but that probably means it has popped out more on that side.

 

[jamespowers]

Yep...I concede. Yours is much bigger than mine. Over 15,000!!

But...just where is that line between interest and obsession?? lol

It is more of a matter of time. You have 1,000 already and just joined this year. I have a few years on you. You'll catch up.

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

True James.
I think I may have crossed that line!

 

[jamespowers]

True James.
I think I may have crossed that line!

In only four months.
So is the derby winging its way to Optimo?

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

To be honest James, I haven't yet had a chance to contact them. I'll need to weigh up cost vs usage and decide whether it's worth it. Postage alone will set me back around AUS$70 both ways. So, is it worth spending a couple of hundred bucks restoring a hat of unknown origin?? Considering I'd wear it sparingly, probably not. But we'll see.

 

[jamespowers]

To be honest James, I haven't yet had a chance to contact them. I'll need to weigh up cost vs usage and decide whether it's worth it. Postage alone will set me back around AUS$70 both ways. So, is it worth spending a couple of hundred bucks restoring a hat of unknown origin?? Considering I'd wear it sparingly, probably not. But we'll see.

$70 plus the cost of repairing the hat does seem a bit high. You also lose a bit in the conversion to the dollar from what my conversion sources say. :eusa_doh: [huh]
I guess that decision is up to you. I still have to box up mine and send it too.

 

[Michaelshane]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh450/andycat60
/P1050545.jpg[/IMG]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

 

[billysmom]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh450/andycat60
/P1050545.jpg[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Michaelshane, the detail on that hat is amazing!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Sue

 

[billysmom]

Wormser in Disguise

Received this from the bay today:

Supposedly a C&K, from the liner:

But the sweat tells a different story:

And underneath, the truth is revealed!:

Sweat's almost detached and brittle, brim binding's worn in spots. So this is more for interest than for wear. But fun, anyway. I haven't seen another Wormser derby.

Sue

 

[Brad Bowers]

Looks like a nice Derby, Sue, but I'm glad I decided not to bid on it. I would have been disappointed to win a liner without the hat to go with it!

Brad

 

[Dreispitz]

Christy´s Bowler of 1931

Came in, today, from the UK. 1931 high crown and rather flatish shaped brim, as typical for the period. It stil rested in it´s original box. Note the two vent openings in the liner. The top of the crown features coresponding holes.