The Bowler or Derby Hat

[billysmom]

My first Derby

Just out of the bay:

From H. Freed of Lansford, PA

Sue

 

[Slim Portly]

jwalls - I have a "project" hat that I've been meaning to bring over to Dave for many months now. He has done outstanding work for me in the past.

Miss Sue - What a great find! It looks to be in excellent condition, and a very attractive hat.

 

[jwalls]

Sue, the derby looks fantastic on you. Slim, PM me when your are going over and I'll try to come over.

 

[billysmom]

Mallory Aristocrat

My third derby/bowler:

It's shaped with a pretty flat top. The sweat's a full 2 1/4", thick and supple. The grosgrain around the brim is a bit worn, but not through to the felt.

Here's the obligatory noggin shot - indoors 'cause it's about to rain:

I'll probably hit it with the steamer to give it more brim curl.

Sue

 

[Dreispitz]

My third derby/bowler:


Sue

Be careful, Sue. Derbys are adictive lol lol :eusa_clap

 

[Matt Deckard]

They truly are.

 

[ScionPI2005]

My third derby/bowler:

I'll probably hit it with the steamer to give it more brim curl.

Sue

I really like that one Sue. It looks good on you!

 

[jwalls]

Very nice, Sue, I love the derby.:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

I'll probably hit it with the steamer to give it more brim curl.

Sue

Easy does it. That one really looks the best on you so far, just as it is.

 

[Michaelshane]

I have a derby on the way.Stetson,pictures when it arrives.

 

[LocktownDog]

I found a shop in Virginia City that sells more than just westerns. He had a few beautiful bowlers there under $100. Since I have several other hats in earth tone colors, I think I'll get the bowler in grey for more formal occasions.

http://www.theoldredgarter.com/

Nice old gent running the place. Its also a great thing knowing they're only a 5 minute drive from my front door.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Very practical

 

[billysmom]

Very practical

Indeed! Nice summer weight and ventilation.

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Sue

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Here's mine:

 

[billysmom]

Here's mine:

Sharp-sharp-sharp!!!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Sue

 

[MisterGrey]

An interesting find... This page contains an excerpt from a 1900 issue of Harper's Bazar on proper formal/semi-formal attire. This passage, in particular, stuck out:

Top-hats are rather straight up and down, with slightly curling brims.. Silk or top hats worn with evening coats and Derby or black alpine felt with dinner or Tuxedo jacket.

So apparently, for at least a period at the end of the Victorian era, it was considered proper to wear a Derby with black tie.

And as long as I'm here, my first good hat also happens to be a derby:

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

Talk about your fixer upper

I bought this hat mainly for the box it came in (see the Hatbox Homage thread). This Derby is of unknown origin. With no liner and no sweatband we have no idea of the manufacturer. If anyone recognises the style of the size tag, then let me know. But realistically, this hat will remain an orphan.

Based on the shape Brad Bowers guessed that it may well predate Dobbs (founded 1908). But again, who really knows.

There appears to be the remnants of a cloth reed where the sweatband used to be. The union tag is for the old United Hatters Union of North America (1896-1934).

Crown: 5"
Brim 2"
Ribbon with frayed end bow 1 1/8"

The body is in good shape, though it badly needs a clean. Apart from the missing sweat (which makes it want to slip down over my eyes!), the brim binding has come away in parts. The curl of the brim will make this difficult for an amateur to replace. I need to decide if this old derby is worth restoring - and then, who to send it to. We have no one in Australia who does this work that I'm aware of. Any ideas on this would be welcome.

[/IMG]

 

[billysmom]

Crown: 5"
Brim 2"
Ribbon with frayed end bow 1 1/8"

I love the proportions and it looks good on your scone, Mr. T.!

Sue

 

[Ephraim Tutt]

It's very precariously perched there Sue.
If I replace the sweat and have it restored I'd like to have a sweat that at least resembles the old ones from this period. Does anyone do this?

 

[Brad Bowers]

Despite its problems, it's still a nice Derby, Ephraim.

The crown looks taller in the photos. 5" is a pretty classic height, so it could be from the 20th century. It's just that pronounced upward curl of the brim on the sides that give it that 19th century look, but that was offered into the 20th century by various manufacturers.

That's a shame about the binding. It's sewn on differently on your hat than the ladies in the trimming room at the C&K factory did it. Most other factories did it the same way as C&K, as it was pretty standard at the time, and was all done by hand. Perhaps yours already had the binding replaced at one time. I deconstructed a Derby a while back, and have been meaning to post photos to show how it was done, but it involved sewing the binding on the inside first, with the stitched edge to the outside, and the flipping the ribbon over and hand-stitching it to the underside with tiny, almost invisible stitches every half-inch or so. Difficult to describe, and I'm sure almost as difficult to do, but a very clean look. And the ladies did this without machines, after the brims had been curled! That's why the binding on modern Derbies is done by machine, and why they are all curled like a Homburg, instead of like a proper Derby.

A metal reed and cloth tape was standard on most Derbies, but it was tucked under the sweatband, and not as visible as modern reeds and tape. Most of the Derbies I've seen from the C&K factory also have a metal wire hoop tucked underneath the brim edge for support. Does yours have this? I have no idea how many manufacturers used that device.

I've replaced the sweatband in my one of '20s Dobbs Derbies and kept it looking as original as possible, even folding over the top edge of the sweatband into the hat as was done back then. The only big difference was the exposed reed and tape from the modern sweatband. I have no idea who would do that today.

Brad