Tab Collar Shirts Still Available?

[Flat Foot Floey]

They used the grandad/band collar shirts for the shooting. But they looked odd with waistcoats. I only looked them up for the fabrics which seem to be mainly in the blue color sheme.

PS: Don't forget they are italian. I guess they need to stay fashionable to get in the menswear blogs

 

[Edward]

Here is a brand that has both fancy fabrics and also a tab collar shirt...which is white:eusa_doh:
Their regular shirt collars leave much to be deisred imo. Too much spread. I found them in the Men's File magazine so they already targeted the workwear/hertitage market. Rather expensive though. For that kind of money I wouldn't compromise with the collar.

http://www.salvatorepiccolo.com/en/products-shirts/

Common thing - do all the nice fabrics in a safe style, and then only do one, white version of the interesting stuff.... Bah... I actually considered just buying a lot of white shirts with pin collars and dying them myself... Lot of hassle, though, and only gives you variation in block colour...

I agree on the spread collars, and not compromising on cost at that price.... For that sort of money, I'd head straight for something like Darcy and have a load of proper spearpoints run up.

Targeting the workwear crowd with spread collars seems like an odd idea ...

Probably not aiming for the period workwear thing, though - more the fashion crowd...

They used the grandad/band collar shirts for the shooting. But they looked odd with waistcoats.

Peaky Blinders influence, maybe?

PS: Don't forget they are italian. I guess they need to stay fashionable to get in the menswear blogs

Yes, I agree. Where I buy my shirts on Jermyn Street (the Charles Tyrwhitt chain) they carry the 'normal' stuff for folks like me, but they also have loads of these fashion-led shirts with really skinny fits and collars that are so cutaway the points are almost down the back....

 

[simonc]

I think workwear has always operated in tandem with town wear, indeed the stuff I like most is able to be worn in both town and country. Here is a rather nice early Levis shirt with release tab collar.

Close up

 

[Edward]

Oh, *my* does that scream to be reproduced!!

 

[herringbonekid]

not an easy shirt to wear, but a beautiful fabric nonetheless.

 

[Edward]

I think I could totally rock that look, as the young people say.

 

[herringbonekid]

i'd love to see an actual photo from the period, to see what sort of outfit it was worn with.

is that your shirt simonc ?

 

[Metatron]

I believe it is a 1900s shirt seen on ebay some time ago?

Yeah thats true, people buy crap with good marketing. As stated before, the colours are too pale, grey's, sky, beiges arent my personal preferences (and being in the business for a long time I have somewhat of a 'pulse' on what colours are easier to shift - in the modern market that looks back at older styles that is). Also, the thick coars cotton of yesteryears isnt something that appeals to modern tastes (as has been previously stated by someone else). Thy are lovely as vintage peices, no doubt

Maybe not something that could be marketed to work with a modern super wool suit, but what about with sports coats for that country look? Plenty of conservative brands push the tattersall shirt as the ideal accompaniment to a tweed jacket.
More trendy brands feature the sports coat + workwear chambray shirt look.
Then, plenty of non-fashionable people enjoy wearing plaid flannel shirts.
Wouldn't a resurgence of 'pyjama' fabric shirts lie at an ideal intersection of all the above?
Also, all the pictures of vintage fabrics that people are getting excited about feature interesting patterns, I don't think of them as washed out at all.

I think people today would be turned off more by a vintage cut(which can resemble pyjamas) than the fabrics themselves.
So the cut could be updated. In fact this sort of fabric would be perfect to use with a work-shirt style design with the right hardware and details.

By the way, I recently picked up a solid white flannel shirt by Topman at a charity shop.
Ironic how right now the trendy brands have an edge when it comes to bringing back long forgotten quirky vintage details, over the conservative/country-wear ones.
In their steadfast dedication to tradition, they neglected to jump on the traditional trend bandwagon.
I guess there is classic and there is vintage.

 

[herringbonekid]

Also, all the pictures of vintage fabrics that people are getting excited about feature interesting patterns, I don't think of them as washed out at all

me neither.

but i also don't think that people from warmer climates realise how muted a colour palette we Brits (and Northern Europeans) prefer. colour sense really is tied to weather and landscape, and Britain is often devoid of colour a lot of the time. the often celebrated colours of famous tweeds such as Harris and Donegal are inspired by the muted colours of landscapes seen in wintry light, or parched moorland in summer drizzle.

 

[herringbonekid]

p.s. i've just made this from 30s-40s French printed shirt fabric.
the tab is a separate piece. it has small buttons on each end which go through a buttonhole on the back of the collar.

more photos on the blog.

 

[Two Types]

parched moorland in summer drizzle.

You can take the boy out of the north ...

... but you can't take the north out of the boy.

 

[Two Types]

Really nice fabric on that shirt.

 

[herringbonekid]

You can take the boy out of the north ...

not just northern. you see that landscape in the west country too !

 

[Rudie]

Wonderful shirt and impressive pattern matching.

I wonder, it seems to be quite short. Is it intended to be worn untucked?

 

[herringbonekid]

Really nice fabric on that shirt.

i have the same fabric in brown too.... coming up soon.

I wonder, it seems to be quite short. Is it intended to be worn untucked?

thanks.
no... i never wear shirts untucked. i just don't bother with the whole 'tails' bit that most shirt-makers do. the second-bottom button is covered by high waisted trousers.

here's a quick shot. sorry about the unshaven chin:

 

[Claudio]

beautiful patterns and matching there HBK

 

[Two Types]

That is such a beautiful outfit. Even the braces are a perfect match (which is something I never think about).

Muted tones really make a subtle outfit. especially good for this season.

 

[Claudio]

Very true about the connection of location and colours/fabrics. Also it must be said that there is a distinct difference between a market seeking exact reproduction of old styles regardless quality of fabric (quality includes feel, transpitation, comfort, longevity etc etc) and look, and a more practical market, where people wear things because they look good and are comfortable and wearable. That stripes red vintage shirt is a piece of history but again, falls into the pj categary (IMO of course) what with the style, the cut, the patterns ... southern europeans are more adventurous with their colours but more limited with their styling and details (I was the first one to ever do tab collar shirts, or fold back bond cuffs in Italy some 10/12 years ago and still now almost impossible to see these made by Italians). That is why the link shown of that shirt maker from naples is a bit of a hit and miss. Its very fashionable to make workwear now but the Italians will take the colours and patterns and match them with classic styles like a french or spread collar and use modern fabrics. Come next season and this label will be making whatever is next fashionable. I fortunatley am not like this.

 

[Claudio]

However, I do think that there is a lot of tat out there/in here and a lot of people wearing stuff ONLY because it is vintage and not because it acually looks good on oneself. I think first and foremost it needs to look good on you and suit your body, frame etc etc, then if its vintage then that is great. I love vintage, period, heritage .. clothing as much as the next guy but personally first and foremost it needs to look good and balanced on oneself.

HBK you always manage to tick all the boxes perfectly, but you are a tailor in so in the end that is fundamental (knowing the balances, shapes, drapes, styles etc).

 

[herringbonekid]

HBK you always manage to tick all the boxes perfectly, but you are a tailor in so in the end that is fundamental (knowing the balances, shapes, drapes, styles etc).

i would never call myself a tailor as it's not my trade. i'm just someone who's learned how to make clothes for himself.

i agree that fit and whether the suit / garment actually flatters you should be the first consideration when wearing anything. personally, i was drawn to clothing of the 1920-50s because the cuts seemed more flattering than what i was seeing in modern clothing, and i preferred the fabric, details and overall aesthetic. the actual era is sort of irrelevant to me. i started in the mid 50s, moved to the 30s-40s, and now i'm looking mainly at the early 20s, but it might change again.