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Tab Collar Shirts Still Available?

Claudio

Vendor
Messages
377
Location
Italian living in Spain
One learns how to sew a button or make a trouser hem, but full coats and jackets, thats tailoring and the way the stuff fits you, a damn good one at that!
Then if its a 9-5 job thats bringing in the cash that doesnt make a difference IMO. Bravo!
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Here is something a later design, not tab, but not sure where to post it, but take a look and let me know, this one is in a sanded 7oz cotton in beige.

hard to get too excited about beige, but it looks good. slightly uniform-ish. i can imagine it working with a brown leather 30s-40s flight-type jacket. what was your take on it... a not too formal dress shirt ?
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Hi fellas thanks for the feedback, its really helpful, as Michael Angelo was prone to say "...As the marble wastes the statue grows". Here is something a later design, not tab, but not sure where to post it, but take a look and let me know, this one is in a sanded 7oz cotton in beige.

BfqgZds.jpg


OiZAaXd.jpg


I have another red and blue tab coming in soon which I hope to share with you.

I wonder whether the collar needs to be softer on that shirt. Whenever I've seen that shape collar (USA late thirties/early 1940s?) it's been on a casual shirt. This collar looks a bit too formal for the style.

What were the influences you used for the design?
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
It was from a shop in Sicilian Avenue in London. They had a massive range of custom features (about 30 or more collar styles to choose from, if I remember correctly). Then the shiort was made in Spain. They charged about £60, but they've closed down now. The label just said 'La Chemiserie Traditionelle'.
 

simonc

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
United Kingdom
TT I wanted to make an early 20th cent shirt of no particular year that was heavy enough (you know I like heavy) and robust enough and yet could be worn with cloth, leather, or denim. It is fitted but yet I have loosed the upper block for movement in the shoulders and chest. I'm not sure if it was James Cagney playing guitar, or just flash backs to my grandfather and his brother on the land but I think a quality beige shirt is so easy to match with just about any trousers or jacket for less formal occasions. Chevalier claims the collar to be an perfect early 50's Californian V collar - in truth having produced many things in my life I have learnt to let others form the final consensus of what something is rather than me. Thanks.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
there are no tab collars in my early 20s U.S. catalogues, but there's a lot of collars with buttons which would pull the collar back in the same way as the tab:

club_collar_1920.jpg


...these are usually described as having 'two buttons which fasten to collar band' or as 'button links' which i guess is two buttons attached by elastic or similar, which would logically be the precursor to the attached tab.

i'd like to know when the tab came in. i'm assuming around the mid-late 20s when these more Edwardian looking collars became extinct.
 
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Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Reminds me I once saw some kind of collar bar on french ebay. But it had two buttons and seemed to work like a tab. Of course I can't find the picture now. :eusa_doh:
 

mactire

New in Town
Messages
46
Location
Ireland

simonc

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
United Kingdom
I wonder if for the short button collars they ever used brass or gold button pins rather than buttons as they did for the top button to gather the tab?
 
Messages
17,219
Location
New York City
I wonder if for the short button collars they ever used brass or gold button pins rather than buttons as they did for the top button to gather the tab?

If I understand your question correctly (the fault is mine as I am less informed than all of you), I owned several Abercrombie and Fitch shirts (back when before they became soft-porn purveyors to teenagers) that had tab collars that closed with a brass stud. The collars were very short (think 1960s tab collar shirts) and, I think, I bought out my size - they had them for one season - and wore them 'till they literally fell apart. It was a beautiful shirt and a wonderful vintage touch that gave me a moment of pop in the morning when I put it on.

A woman I worked with asked me one day what that "metal thing was under my tie." She was impressed when I showed her the way it worked and she said she always noticed the thought I put into my clothes. It was a nice moment.
 

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