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Suspender buttons

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
Attachment of Braces Buttons

This issue has been touched upon in several recent threads, but the problem hasn't been dealt with directly, so I'm starting this thread:

Are there any seamstresses or tailors among you who can advise on the best method of attaching braces buttons to trousers? Here is an example of a bad attachment on a pair of moleskins by a good maker (J. Peterman) and the unsightly result:
Braces-Problem1.jpg

Peterman has attached the buttons to the inner facing of the waist. (Incidentally, isn't this called the "curtain" or the "apron" of the trousers?). The result is that the inner lining is pulled up.

I've acquired some new braces that I want to wear with trousers that presently have no buttons. I don't want to make the same mistake that Peterman made.
 
That looks to me more like a poorly attached apron than a poorly attached button. All my (US) suspenders buttons are attached only to the apron, and it is not pulled up on any of my pants - even the ones i've attached myself. Even when i pull on the attachment.

All my (UK) suspenders buttons are attached to the outside of the trousers waistband.

How is the apron on the Peterman pants attached? Pic?

bk
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
Baron Kurtz said:
Great minds think alike, it seems.

All the ones i can see right now in my wardrobe are whipstitched right at the top of the lining, and backstitched just under the buttons (suspender).

bk

Great minds, indeed! Here is a pic of the inside:
InsideJPman.gif

I now see that the apron is not stiched down properly, so it has pulled up and reveals itself above the waistline.

Apparently, I need to backstitch the apron down to something solid just below each of the braces buttons?¢‚Ǩ‚Äùwhile avoiding any thread showing on the outside.

Many thanks to both of you for your help,

bk, Your UK trousers with buttons on the outside; how are they attached? I'm thinking the most secure way might be to sew clear through the waistband and into a small button on the inside; much like overcoat buttons are often attached.
 
Strange that Peterman would miss such an important detail.

Wolfmanjack said:
bk, Your UK trousers with buttons on the outside; how are they attached? I'm thinking the most secure way might be to sew clear through the waistband and into a small button on the inside; much like overcoat buttons are often attached.

They're sewn clean through the waistband and lining (apron) to the inside. No special attachment method; just some good strong thread. Appears to be waxed ... and linen

bk
 
The buttons on the outside i'm caught in two minds about. It makes it easier to attch the braces when wearing the trousers, but looks a bit shabby if there's no waistcoat. I suspect the only reason the brits had them on the outside was because everyone would be wearing waistcoats anyway.

When wearing those trousers i always make sure to wear a waistcoat.

bk
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
i disagree Baz,

i think buttons on the outside have a rakish insouciance that says "hey, i'm a man and i'll wear my buttons on the outside if i please".

but if a pair of trousers have belt loops, then inside they must go.

Hez
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
Since moleskin is a fabric usually associated with 'country' or 'hunting' attire, I think I'll go with buttons on the outside?¢‚Ǩ‚Äùand take off the belt loops. I'll be wearing these with a tweed jacket and a tattersall shirt, as shown in the pic's above. I'll post a pic when they're finished.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
I'm not surprised. Earlier J. Peterman items of clothing were not very well made. Few stitches per inch, loosely sewn buttons, cheap pocket lining materials, etc. Matt Deckard assures me that J. Peterman's clothes have improved since then. I'll take his word for it.
 

PADDY

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
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7,425
Location
METROPOLIS OF EUROPA
I'm sewing some vintage buttons onto a pair of pants to fix suspenders (US)/braces (UK) onto them.

Advice:

Have them as a feature on the outside?
Or...tucked away on the inside?

Views please...
 

Orgetorix

Call Me a Cab
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2,241
Location
Louisville, KY...and I'm a 42R, 7 1/2
If you're going to wear them with a waistcoat, or won't ever be taking your coat off, put them on the outside. It'll be more comfortable. If the above isn't true, but them on the inside. They seem to have been predominantly on the outside in the era when one always wore a waistcoat, and migrated inside postwar when three-piece suits began to disappear.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Orgetorix said:
If you're going to wear them with a waistcoat, or won't ever be taking your coat off, put them on the outside. It'll be more comfortable.
Ya' think? I've had both and I couldn't tell any difference. I did noticed that when wearing the buttons outside, sans jacket and vest, they would catch on and mark-up upholstery when seated, especially leather. Aesthetically, I like the look when interesting high quality buttons are employed.
 

Orgetorix

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,241
Location
Louisville, KY...and I'm a 42R, 7 1/2
Tomasso said:
Ya' think? I've had both and I couldn't tell any difference. I did noticed that when wearing the buttons outside, sans jacket and vest, they would catch on and mark-up upholstery when seated, especially leather. Aesthetically, I like the look when interesting high quality buttons are employed.

Yeah, I think so. It doesn't make a big difference, but I've found buttons outside the waistband to be slightly more comfortable, especially where the trousers are more snug than I prefer them.
 

manton

A-List Customer
Messages
360
Location
New York
I can't tell any difference in comfort either. However, outside is more old world and "vintage" looking. You almost never see it anymore. Maybe two tailors I have used in 15 years have even asked which I prefer. The rest just put them inside as a matter of course.
 

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