Stetson Sweat Stamps/ LOT XXXX

[alanfgag]

>Or are you wondering if it is glued?

Yes.

I think not. Here is a close-up of the over welt stitching, with a line of stitches that is just hidden behind the edge of the welt.

 

[TheDane]

It looks like the same chain stitches, that was used on Buler's Flagship here. That one is just underwelt and pressed up to look like a Cav-edge. I have seen a Resistol with a similar treatment. Very beautiful Alan!

 

[alanfgag]

Great comparison, Ole... thanks. I posted a few additional photos here.

 

[mayserwegener]

Alan, Thank you for taking a close look. This points to the welt being stitched. The hidden line of stitches are also interesting.

 

[Joshbru3]

I think not. Here is a close-up of the over welt stitching, with a line of stitches that is just hidden behind the edge of the welt.

Here's my take on this....for what its worth. A blind stitch machine hides the stitches by not going through the other side of the material, but rather stitches on an "angle" into the felt and attaches the stitch somewhat through the bottom material. Usually on a chain stitch created by some sort of chain stitch machine, the only time you see the actual "chain" part of the stitch and not the part of the stitch that looks like this, --------------------, is when you flip the material over and look on the bottom. I think what we are seeing here is the bottom of the chain stitch that was suppose to be hidden by the overwelt. This is the stitch that was suppose to go into the second layer of felt, but not through. (hence the blind stitch) I believe this is just another example of vintage hats that are not 100% perfect because they were being produced in such quantities in those days.

 

[alanfgag]

Actually, the chain stitch is completely hidden by the over welt. I've pulled the welt out to reveal this chain stitch. Otherwise, it is not visible.

 

[Joshbru3]

Actually, the chain stitch is completely hidden by the over welt. I've pulled the welt out to reveal this chain stitch. Otherwise, it is not visible.

Ah, I see. My mistake. Then in my mind, the chain stitch confirms that the overwelt was originally done using a factory blind stitch. Not saying that a hatter couldn't have cut the brim at one time and used a blind stitch machine to create an overwelt, but the work and overwelt on this hat looks like several other Stetsons I own and believe to be factory work.

 

[Brad Bowers]

In case some find the graphic useful, here is how the stitch works, though it's shown on an overwelt here.

Brad

 

[tommyK]

lot 4884
Not sure of the age on this one

 

[splintercellsz]

It has the '15 - '25 logo, but i know that the Avenue Allan acquired is dated '31, so yours could be early 30s, though I believe it to beon the older end of the spectrum. Alan is the lot number guru, so let's hope he will pop by

 

[alanfgag]

Thanks for adding this one, TommyK. There are a good number of 4XXX posted here - a guess would be later 1920s to 1930. A great find.

 

[splintercellsz]

Stetson 'The Stetsonian' w/ reinforced edge

LOT#7301

 

[alanfgag]

Stetson Real Nutria Fur derby, either 3266, or 8266. If 8266, it is pre-1920s and from a prior sequence of numbers. At least I think so.

 

[splintercellsz]

Lot 5160

 

[Yesteryear]

Interesting thread, I enjoyed looking through it and seeing the LOT#-to-Date chart being developed.
Here's the lot number from my derby, it was nearly invisible but I could just barely make out what looks like LOT 6238 or possibly 3238?
Anybody know why it is also stamped 'MILLER BOW' in this area?

 

[alanfgag]

Very nice - thank you for adding. It's often a job to decipher the numbers. I'm guessing 6238 on this one?

 

[Yesteryear]

I think you might be right Alan, though depending on the light it also sort of looks like 3238. I wonder if something like a black light would make it easier to decipher.

So would 6238 place it in the 1920s? That's what I was originally guessing based on the duplication and sizing tag.

 

[alanfgag]

The higher number would suggest 1930s. Do you have a size tag or sticker? I did a little Photoshop forensics, which didn't help all that much.

 

[Yesteryear]

Do you have a size tag or sticker?

Sure, here they are:

 

[alanfgag]

The manufacturing and reorder tags were in use in the same format for many years and are not much help for dating hats earlier than mid-late 1930s. The size tag might be useful if it is present... either a round sticker on the rear of the sweatband or a paper tag sewn to at the back of the sweat?