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Stetson Sweat Stamps/ LOT XXXX

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15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
>Or are you wondering if it is glued?

Yes.

I think not. Here is a close-up of the over welt stitching, with a line of stitches that is just hidden behind the edge of the welt.

theavenuec.jpg
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
I think not. Here is a close-up of the over welt stitching, with a line of stitches that is just hidden behind the edge of the welt.

theavenuec.jpg


Here's my take on this....for what its worth. A blind stitch machine hides the stitches by not going through the other side of the material, but rather stitches on an "angle" into the felt and attaches the stitch somewhat through the bottom material. Usually on a chain stitch created by some sort of chain stitch machine, the only time you see the actual "chain" part of the stitch and not the part of the stitch that looks like this, --------------------, is when you flip the material over and look on the bottom. I think what we are seeing here is the bottom of the chain stitch that was suppose to be hidden by the overwelt. This is the stitch that was suppose to go into the second layer of felt, but not through. (hence the blind stitch) I believe this is just another example of vintage hats that are not 100% perfect because they were being produced in such quantities in those days.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Actually, the chain stitch is completely hidden by the over welt. I've pulled the welt out to reveal this chain stitch. Otherwise, it is not visible.
 

Joshbru3

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4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Actually, the chain stitch is completely hidden by the over welt. I've pulled the welt out to reveal this chain stitch. Otherwise, it is not visible.

Ah, I see. My mistake. Then in my mind, the chain stitch confirms that the overwelt was originally done using a factory blind stitch. Not saying that a hatter couldn't have cut the brim at one time and used a blind stitch machine to create an overwelt, but the work and overwelt on this hat looks like several other Stetsons I own and believe to be factory work.
 

Brad Bowers

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4,187
In case some find the graphic useful, here is how the stitch works, though it's shown on an overwelt here.

Brad

 

splintercellsz

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6,142
Location
Somewhere in Time
It has the '15 - '25 logo, but i know that the Avenue Allan acquired is dated '31, so yours could be early 30s, though I believe it to beon the older end of the spectrum. Alan is the lot number guru, so let's hope he will pop by :)
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Stetson Real Nutria Fur derby, either 3266, or 8266. If 8266, it is pre-1920s and from a prior sequence of numbers. At least I think so. :)

tallderbya.jpg


tallderby7.jpg
 

Yesteryear

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
Interesting thread, I enjoyed looking through it and seeing the LOT#-to-Date chart being developed.
Here's the lot number from my derby, it was nearly invisible but I could just barely make out what looks like LOT 6238 or possibly 3238?
Anybody know why it is also stamped 'MILLER BOW' in this area?





 
Last edited:

Yesteryear

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
I think you might be right Alan, though depending on the light it also sort of looks like 3238. I wonder if something like a black light would make it easier to decipher.

So would 6238 place it in the 1920s? That's what I was originally guessing based on the duplication and sizing tag.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
The higher number would suggest 1930s. Do you have a size tag or sticker? I did a little Photoshop forensics, which didn't help all that much.

yesteryear.jpg
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
The manufacturing and reorder tags were in use in the same format for many years and are not much help for dating hats earlier than mid-late 1930s. The size tag might be useful if it is present... either a round sticker on the rear of the sweatband or a paper tag sewn to at the back of the sweat?
 

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