Here are two Stratoliners from the early 1940s... so similar, yet with a couple of subtle differences that make them interesting to discuss.
The darker one I've had for a while, the lighter one is a Vita-Felt process just acquired. According to trademark records, Stetson lists the first use of "Vita-Felt" to July, 1940. They record their first mention of Stratoliner in commerce as April of the same year.
Both hats are lightweight unlined hats... likely among the earliest variations on this iconic Stetson theme. Both hats are identical in weight at 2.8 ounces (79 grams). The Vita-Felt feels slightly thicker and softer. The body in the other is thinner and more densely felted. These differences are very subtle. The fibers in the Vita-Felt hat can be loosened with abrasion and are no match for hungry moth larvae. Whatever the mystery process or composition of Vita-Felt, it does not match the quality of Stetson's standard felt of the day. Still, I think it is very difficult to tell them apart in the photos.
Dimensions (5" crown, 2 1/2+" brim) and ribbon details are identical. I gave the new Vita-Felt a diamond crease so I could tell them apart. The glued embroidered crown labels are colored different but otherwise the same. They are substantial and can be felt through the lightweight felt.
The sweatbands are different. The Vita-Felt uses the buttery soft natural leather that I also have in my c.1940 Playboy. The other uses a more rigid leather with an embossed grain. Both have sporty colored sweatband ribbons that seemed to be popular in inexpensive lightweights from this era.
Unfortunately, the darker Strat is missing its size tag. But if it were there, I'm guessing it would be black/manila as on David's very similar example. The Vita-Felt has the earlier gold printed label. It also has the last variation of Stetson's 3 panel manufacturing label, which replaced the wider three panel label in the late 1930s and is gone in favor of a single field label with just the block# stamped sometime in the early 1940s.
I am guessing the Vita-Felt Strat to be an early example, made in 1940-1941 during the first production year of the Stratoliner... the other, later, 1942-43. But I could be wrong too.
Thanks, Randall... I always wanted to be a sleuth. Now I have enough hats to do the wardrobe, anyway.
One last feature... the sweatband LOTXXXX stamp appears on the Vita-Felt hat and not on the other. More on the sweat stamp timeline unified theory here.
Very nice comparisons Alan! I've really enjoyed this thread.... one of these days I'm going to get enough time to sit down with two and do one myself...
I'm glad you are enjoying this thread... I hope we can get many more posts. There are some incredible hat collections out there with good stories to tell.
Right you are. Actually when physicists finalize the unified theory of gravity, weak force, strong force and electromagnetism, I hope they also include a way to explain Stetson's X system in it.
I read a couple of Brian Greene books partly about that. I was delighted to be informed about such a small world. But you know, I don't even think he wears a hat, so I don't know how far to trust him.
I'm going to compare two new production hats that share a certain style but are very different in all other ways.
My Akubra Campdraft in silverbelly and a Borsalino Alessandria in light grey. Both hats come in open crown.
The Campdraft is made in Akubras imperial grade felt which is a bit stiff and a little larger than the Borso.
The amount of flange on the Campdraft is little where the Alessandria has a lot. When I wear the Borso I tilt it back or I would not be able to see.
The felt on the Borso is light weight and is shapeable without steam.
The Campdraft has a reeded sweatband where the Alessandria has a non reeded sweat.
I would have to say that the Borso is the most comfortable hat I have because of the light conforming felt and the lack of a reed. The Borsalino costs about twice as much as the Akubra.
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