Show us your suits

[Marc Chevalier]

Later today, I'll post here a detailed description (from a late '30s APPAREL ARTS) of the "English drape" suit's characteristics.

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[Marc Chevalier]

Is that man with the large vertical fold hanging down (ooo-err, missus) Douglas Fairbanks Jr.?

Yes, oui, si, ja, ta, da, hai, etc.

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[Marc Chevalier]

Look how short his trousers are.

In America, at least, men's trousers were worn with practically no break at all. Trousers were meant to hang down perfectly straight, with no "sloppy" interruptions in the line. This tradition continues in "preppy" style: the classic East Coast preps still tend to wear their khakis, and even suit trousers, short.

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[Baron Kurtz]

But surely his troos are abnormally short, eh what?? I mean, if we were closer, and the photo was in colour, his socks would be showing ... unless his shoes are high-tops.

Does the drape model description - which you're going to transcribe - prescribe severely tapered trousers?

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I have seen many, many preppies wear trousers with legs as short as those. I've also seen '30s American photos and fashion plates of models wearing their trousers that short. It was even worse in the 'teens and early '20s: practically above the ankles!

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[Marc Chevalier]

Does the drape model description - which you're going to transcribe - prescribe severely tapered trousers?

It prescribes trousers that are higher waisted than the norm, and very full at the thigh. Some tapering from the knee down is also a part of the equation. Such trousers hadn't been seen in men's fashion since around 1912. Unlike the 1912 versions, however, these '30s "drape" trousers had pleats: very full ones, too.

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[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Even as I child I learned this was how Americans clothed. Always with a slight shaking of my father's head, showing a mix of compassion and incomprehension.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

An American movie star in the late '20s, wearing a very early (and almost certainly English-made) drape suit ... note how short his trouser's legs are (and not just because he has his hands in his pockets):

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[Marc Chevalier]

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See the vertical fold running down the right chest of Mr. Gable's jacket? Sure sign that it's a drape suit:

And there's the telltale vertical fold again, on the far side of Mr. Cooper's right chest:

And here's the real drape deal:

Now, compare the three suits above to the one below (at right). See any chest fold here? Not at all. The fit is smooth, almost tubular. This is clearly not a drape suit:

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[Wild Root]

Marc is right, the shorter cut of the trousers was to keep clean straight lines with no interruptions... also, a plus side to this style was that your cuff bottoms wouldn't wear out!

This trend also went beyond the "Preppies"! It can also be seen in the "Jitterbug" trend... yes, not so much in the early 30's but in about 38-46 or so young men who were "Gates" would roll up their cuff a little which gave their pants a very tapered look and, also made them hang above the ankles thus, showing off the ever so trendy stripped socks that American youth loved to wear. Most Zoot Suit's were worn high like this as well! Reason being it was out of the ordinary, it was a way in which they used to rebel and also it offered freedom of movement on the dance floor.

=WR=

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks for the 'english drape' descriptions Marc !

i must say, it is a much more subtle thing than i imagined but it makes sense now. and i am definately a non-drape guy. but i must stress that it is my physique that has lead me to this aesthetic. i think fuller shoulders and a 'drape' looks great if you're a big or tall chap like Wild Root but i think it can swamp a slimmer 5' 11" guy like me. the picture of Edward G's buddy is how i like mine to fit.

thanks again.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

EVERYTHING TO KNOW ABOUT DRAPE SUITS:

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[scotrace]

Drapey, no break, slight taper

For me, these remain the ideal.

 

[BellyTank]

Sometimes, the apparent taper is nothing more than the effect of the crease, in an area which has not much leg in it, allowing the crease to hold the cloth in a front-to-back attitude.

And sometimes it's the taper.

B
T

 

[herringbonekid]

it's odd that it should have it's origin in england as i think of an 'english' fitting jacket as being non-drape, i.e. wrinkle-free, and the drape as more of an american look culminating in the 'Holllywood' look. even today i think 'english' means 'fitted' to most people.

also, the added volume for ease of movement...was the 'drape' the beginning of easy-fitting 'comfort' clothing ?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The added volume for ease of movement...was the 'drape' the beginning of easy-fitting 'comfort' clothing ?

As a matter of fact, it was. It was promoted in America as being more "athletic" and comfortable.

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[BellyTank]

Note in the text; "... full sleeve heads", or something to that effect.
The beginning of the anti-fit.

B
T

 

[Sefton]

The Baron suggested that I post some of these pictures here. It's a 1940s(?) Blue pinstripe DB suit that I just received the other day. Sorry if the pictures aren't the highest resolution.

Here's a shot of the label. Which of these numbers is the date?

Thank you for looking!

 

[Wild Root]

Buddy, it's such a nice suit! But, you need to button it on the other side!!! You've got it buttoned on the "Ladies" side... men button their coats to the right, not the left.

It looks as if it was made for you! Fits like a glove she does! Good job!!!

=WR=

 

[Sefton]

Buddy, it's such a nice suit! But, you need to button it on the other side!!! You've got it buttoned on the "Ladies" side... men button their coats to the right, not the left.

It looks as if it was made for you! Fits like a glove she does! Good job!!!

=WR=

Hey..who you callin' a lady?! Ha ha...being left handed always causes some kind of problem...

It is a good fit. A little more fitted at the waist wouldn't be bad,but I'm not complaining! Just complaining about this blasted hot weather that's keeping me from wearing it!