Show Us Your OVERCOATS

[Dinerman]

Mid 1930s. Made in the Irish Free State.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Picked up a Brooks Brothers camel hair polo coat which I ordered and everything is a-ok with it (other than a cuff which will need to be resewn upwards by about 1/4", and a button on the rear strap which will need to be slightly repositioned, both very minor fixes). What I wanted was the older/longer version (#056L) which BB seems to have discontinued in favour of a shorter version (#ML00177). Also, the older/longer version has full stitching around all the seams instead of stick pitching which I'm not a fan of, and the camel hair has a smoother wool-like finish rather than the rough hair-like cloth on the newer version. Those who are tall height and want the longer coat should check that link and see if they still have your size available. Fit is great, and the quality and solidity of this garment is excellent. I'm happy!



measurements: size 42L
chest 23" (the min measurement for a 42 chest, but it fits fine)
length 49"
shoulder blade 18.5"
sleeve 26.5"
sleeve back neck over shoulder to cuff 37.5"

 

[simonc]

If any of you have a lovely overcoat (in a 44 / 26 inch sleeve) you'd like to part with I'm in the market. Something nubby, not too long ie not below knees, heavy tweed, cuffs, and halfbelt back would be just spiffing. PM me. Ta.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a great overcoat in a grey herringbone I bought several years back at a thrift store for $10. It fits perfectly and I wear it constantly around home when outside or for a walk or something. It's quite water resistant and I don't worry about rain when I wear it, but in serious cold it doesn't have the warm.



I bought this Hugo Boss overcoat at Harry Rosen about 15 years ago and it's been a standby for me for work, etc. It's made from a wonderfully soft and light, but very tough wool, and even with its high mileage it still looks brand new. Although it has the early 90s big shoulder proportions and fits large, it's also very comfy and everything fits under it. One of the nicest features was a button under the collar to fasten the lapels over - it came with that button, it wasn't something I put on. It's extremely useful and I will eventually sew one on to my new polo coat (photos posted previously).

 

[Feraud]

It seems like the warm weather is a good time to purchase cold weather garments. Prices seem lower in the off season.
I'm looking forward to wearing this next winter. Here is a Cunapac overcoat.
It's a mix of Mohair, wool, and alpaca.
The garment is in excellent condition.

 

[splintercellsz]

Feraud, absolutely stunning! Very nice!

 

[splintercellsz]

WWI Army Overcoat dated April 12, 1917.

This one is in amazing shape. Some small moth nibbles in the chest area, and a missing button at the bottom of the coat (to button the bottom shut); but other than that, no issues.

 

[The Good]

Nice overcoats!

Would anybody be able to identify this French, 1960s overcoat label? This image is from a scene in the film Le Samourai, in which the character removes his charcoal or navy single-breasted coat. I have already figured out that the hat may be a Stetson, and the tan trench coat an Aquascutum, but I'm not sure about this particular coat. You will notice that the label has red and white lettering, with a black background. Does this match the description of any well known brands? I couldn't figure out what the letters spell, as the picture is too grainy. I'm hoping to someone here, the answer is simple. Thanks.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Bought this foot guards other ranks greatcoat, as worn by the fellows outside Buckingham Palace. It was a former bandsman's coat with the four stripes for a W.O. (which were removed before I got the coat). It's extraordinarily heavy and I have never hefted anything this heavy. Nice folded-back cuffs and buttoned half-belt at back. The quality of construction is amazing and far better than civilian clothing. It's an older model (as far as I can tell) which has four hooks-and-eyes to close the collar, rather than the velcro used on more recent coats. Also, the cloth is a really dense wool, whereas more recent coats seem to be made of a thicker, fuzzier, less refined wool.



Here's how the buttons are attached (removable for cleaning):

 

[Luftwaffles]

Bought a Korean War US Army officers coat for about $20. Appears to be made of a gabardine material and has a zip-out wool liner.

 

[Tomasso]

It's extraordinarily heavy...........The quality of construction is amaziing and far better than civilian clothing. ......Also, the cloth is a really dense wool, whereas more recent coats seem to be made of a thicker, fuzzier, less refined wool.

A comparision of military coats to the type made for civilian use is a case of apples and oranges. Kinda like compairing a truck to a car. The differences in cloth and construction do not
speak to the quality of the garment. Having worn both I have found that the characteristics that make a coat ideal for mitary use are far less desirable for civilian wear.

 

[Doctor Damage]

A comparision of military coats to the type made for civilian use is a case of apples and oranges. Kinda like compairing a truck to a car. The differences in cloth and construction do not speak to the quality of the garment. Having worn both I have found that the characteristics that make a coat ideal for mitary use are far less desirable for civilian wear.

1. If differences in cloth and construction do not speak to the quality of the garment, what does?

2. Comparing a heavy wool overcoat issued by the military with a heavy wool overcoat sold in a retail store on Main Street is perfectly valid, at least in ares of the world where weather matters.

 

[Fastuni]

Summer is the right time to get some heavy winter coats!

A quintessential German/European Ulster with all bells and whistles:
Fabric is beige-brown herringbone. Scalloped yoke, "framed" patch pockets, split turn-up cuffs, generous top-stitching.
Fully lined with artifical silk.

Cheers

 

[Rudie]

Very nice. I have a similar one in dark brown minus the belt. It has a loose halfbelt and an inverted center pleat in the back instead. Also, there are three rows of top-stitching throughout.

 

[Feraud]

Agreed that summer is the time for buying overcoats!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Just bought this British greatcoat dated 1953, in as-new condition. Crude stitching, but solid construction and the cloth is extremely heavy - I had to help the lady at the dry cleaners take it off the rack!

 

[Tomasso]

1. If differences in cloth and construction do not speak to the quality of the garment, what does?

2. Comparing a heavy wool overcoat issued by the military with a heavy wool overcoat sold in a retail store on Main Street is perfectly valid, at least in ares of the world where weather matters.

My point is that military coats are different animals and should not be compared to civilian coats. Just as a hand sewn Oxxford camel hair polo coat would not hold up to the rigors of military use, a military coat machine made with coarse, stiff, heavy cloth would be undesirable for civilian use. The characteristics that are a plus for military demands are a negative for civilian use where comfort and style trumps function.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Over-coat Collection

I'm going to be posting up some of my choicest over-coats. I have maybe 20 that I've collected over the years, but these are my favourites.

Number 1: Montague Burton large herring-bone chest-nut and ivory coloured raglan sleeve, A frame shin-length top-coat with side slash pockets. I'd say maybe later-mid twenties to early-mid thirties.

Montague Burton

Close up shot, button/fabric detail. The buttons are about an inch in diameter with a wonderful burled finish. Notice the nodules woven into the tweed.

Full shot of my Beauty. Perfect fit and proportions.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Number 2...No, honestly, also NUMBER 1! Too perfect to not be, also, my first over-coat that wasn't inherited or a simple rain-coat.

100% Camel hair, Regis Rex, Gorgeous, polo coat, half belted in back, 6 x 2 DB, roll-cuffed with one decorative button to each cuff, hip level patched and flapped pockets, peaked lapel, silk lined.
Regis Rex label

Front view

Back view

Cuff and pocket detailing, also notice the side seam of the sleeve

Full view as worn

 

[Evan Everhart]

Number 2/3? Anyway, next; Air force model, Airman's great-coat in 100% wool velour according to the label, BLUE 1085 (A.F.) SPEC. MIL-0-3311B (USAF) FED. STK. NO. 8405-163-9674 manufactured by Pembroke, Inc. size 35R. Perfection. It's obviously modeled after a British Warm for all means and purposes, but with an Ulster collar, much like my Navy issue pea coat has. Leather buttons on front and on epaulettes, db fastening, 6 x 3 with 1 large matching blue under collar/lapel button to hold lapel up against weather. I'm guessing Korean war or WWII era, no later. Hardly any foxing of the leather buttons either, top notch at $15. Thanks again Goodwill of Southern California.
Label view

Epaulette view and under lapel button

Front view close-up with buttons and flapped pockets shown

Full frontal view

Great coat as worn.