Show us your British suits

[Tomasso]

From what I've observed it seems to have been quite normal for bespoke tailors not to put labels on their clothes, almost as though it's a sign of modesty.

I thought it was customary for bespoke to carry a discreetly placed label containing the tailor's name, the customer's name and the date that the garment was made.

 

[herringbonekid]

This is quite and early British Bespoke suit. It was made for a Brigadier General. My thoughts are mid 1920s.

interesting suit Ben, and very rare. i don't think i have a single 20s English garment (apart from a black evening jacket maybe)... wish i did as i'm growing to appreciate the 20s more and more.
how wide are the trouser bottoms ?

 

[Miss Sis]

Hi HBK,

They are 9", they are quite narrow. I have to say I presume it is 1920s, as it is not dated. When I bought it, the vendor said to me 'It is a good 40s working mans suit'

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Miss Sis]

I thought it was customary for bespoke to carry a discreetly placed label containing the tailor's name, the customer's name and the date that the garment was made.




Generally true. However, some very top end tailors did not, nor did some smaller tailors. I have a jacket made for the Marquis of Cholmondeley, it is just hand written. He was one of the wealthiest men in England at the time!

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Cobden]

Not sure if it will help much but Brigadier General was abolished in the British army in 1922. May only be an indicator, of course, and if the name is followed by retd. it's pretty useless...

 

[esteban68]

Ok guys here's something I stumbled across last weekend, a 'GUARDS' two piece two button 'tweed' in a wool mix fabric, it's way to big for me but I don't think it's ever been worn , could be old shop stock? it's as new unmarked anywhere the only problem is that one of the side adjuster buttons came off when I was measuring it up.
It is very similar to the other Guards suit I have but this one is possibly later, perhaps 1960's? it has two slanting pockets, two rear vents and no button hole, two inner pockets and a grey unmarked viscose? lining.
The trousers are unpleated and have one rear buttoned and looped rear pocket, no belt loops and no brace buttons (clip on braces perhaps?);
apologies for the photos but I think I'll need a manekin sometime soon!

unused and unworn buttonhole

 

[esteban68]

a few more photos, it's more the grey colour than the brown, collar detail

labels inside jacket pocket

and label

very, very clean armhole lining

 

[esteban68]

and a few trouser shots, first sides;

and lining/waistband again exremely clean

side adjuster details

and rear pocket

 

[esteban68]

and last couple, unworn lightening zip detail;

and coat button detail;

 

[Miss Sis]

A mid 1930s Burtons Harris Tweed plus four suit

 

[Chasseur]

Ben,

WOW! That is a great plus fours suit...

 

[Miss Sis]

This is a scan from a 1930s General store catalogue. These would not have been expensive. It shows what a msall range of colours would have actually been available on the lower end of the market

 

[avedwards]

Ok guys here's something I stumbled across last weekend, a 'GUARDS' two piece two button 'tweed' in a wool mix fabric, it's way to big for me but I don't think it's ever been worn , could be old shop stock? it's as new unmarked anywhere the only problem is that one of the side adjuster buttons came off when I was measuring it up.
It is very similar to the other Guards suit I have but this one is possibly later, perhaps 1960's? it has two slanting pockets, two rear vents and no button hole, two inner pockets and a grey unmarked viscose? lining.
The trousers are unpleated and have one rear buttoned and looped rear pocket, no belt loops and no brace buttons (clip on braces perhaps?)

The material, lack of trouser pleats, lack of lapel buttonhole, lining, button waist adjusters and trouser width would lead me to say mid to late 60s. I doubt it would be worn with clip on braces as it's from the era when braces ceased to be worn by the majority of people but belts hadn't become as widely accepted (in the UK) as they are now. The button adjusters seems to have been a diplomatic solution British tailors used in the 50s and 60s to satisfy the modern customers who didn't want to wear braces as well as the traditional customers who didn't want to wear a belt with a suit.

It's a nice suit though. I like the checked materials which seem to have been quite popular in the UK during the 60s.

 

[Guttersnipe]

That's very interesting about the pleats. On American suits, flat front trousers were not at all unknown prior to the 1960s. I have at least two (possibly three) 1940s suits with flat-front trousers.

Is the absence of flat-front trousers perhaps a distinctive feature for British suits prior to the 1960s?

 

[avedwards]

That's very interesting about the pleats. On American suits, flat front trousers were not at all unknown prior to the 1960s. I have at least two (possibly three) 1940s suits with flat-front trousers.

Is the absence of flat-front trousers perhaps a distinctive feature for British suits prior to the 1960s?

By no means distinctive as flat fronts were around on earlier suits but until the early 1960s two forward pleats were the norm on British suits. Of course like with any rule there are plenty of exceptions but this one goes for most suits I've seen.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.
Gentlemen, you might fancy this post: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...-Around-Here&p=1357834&viewfull=1#post1357834

 

[avedwards]

I hope your project succeeds though I suspect it'll take a while until it properly takes off. This thread took a few months to get to the level it's now at.

 

[Miss Sis]

Here is a blog I began to write. I am not very good at adding to it though. http://doverstreetchaps.blogspot.com/

To add, the CWS certainly had a bespoke and MTM suit department. I found a receipt the other day on ebay.

Kindest Regards

 

[Nick D]

Ben, any more pics of that plus-fours suit? I've been on a hunt for one recently (may have an opportunity in February, fingers crossed).

 

[Miss Sis]

YEs, I wll, as that does not show the detail very well. I have now an even nicer one, which I will photograph. I believe it to be early 1930s, it is harris tweed with a large over check as was popular at the time.

I will get the photos up soon.

Kindest Regards

Ben