Show us your British suits

[Marc Chevalier]

I've been on a hunt for one recently (may have an opportunity in February, fingers crossed).

If only I'd known! I would have clued you in to this one before it ended: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mens-Tweed-Shooting-Suit-/320796841119


Bespoke four-piece shooting suit: matching jacket, waistcoat, plus-fours, and flat cap. Size 42 L. Went for a reasonable £165.

 

[Nick D]

It's all right, not quite my size (I don't wear a 42 chest anymore). Beautiful fabric, this reminds me to check the modern as well as the vintage categories!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It's all right, not quite my size (I don't wear a 42 chest anymore). Beautiful fabric, this reminds me to check the modern as well as the vintage categories!

Matching cap and all. But do shooters really wear such caps with their suits? Would that be too matching?

 

[Miss Sis]

I personally wouldnt Marc, it is a bit too matching. However, it is done, and was done. Lots of illustrations from the period. However, I have never actually seen a golden era Brtish suit with an original matching cap. However, you are more than likely not going to grow out of a cap, so, I suppose it gets worn more?

 

[Two Types]

Here's my contribution:

This was probably made in the 1960s or 1970s, though the style is much more typical of the 1950s. It was made by a firm in the City of London, Dombey and Sons. I am guessing the date on the grounds of the cloth. The weight is more in keeping with later suits. The man who it belonged to had his suits made in virtually the same style, by the same tailors, for many years (I bought eight of them). The only real change is that the trousers get narrower and the waist larger in the later suits.

There has been much discussion on this thread of watch pockets: the trousers have two watch pockets, side adjusters, belt loops and brace buttons ( there was no chance his trousers were going to fall down):

If four pockets aren't enough on a waistcoat ....

... there's always an extra one inside!

There are also four inside pockets (one is zipped):

There are a total of seventeen pockets in the suit.

So my question is, how common were interior pockets on waistcoats? I have only ever seen them in this man's suits.

 

[Two Types]

Another one of the same man's suits is this Prince of Wales check. It probably dates from the 1980s. Once again, it has the double watch pockets, brace buttons, side adjusters and belt loops:

I don't like the cut of the trousers but know how difficult it will be to find matching fabric.

 

[Two Types]

This is another example. Amazingly, it actually dates from 1990. I was able to work this out since I found the original tailors measurement sheet inside the pocket. On the sheet, next to customer's name, his telephone code had been crossed out and replaced by a new one. I double checked and found out the codes were changed in 1990!
However, I can't wear the trousers since they are incredibly narrow (unlike my legs). Since it was a nice black wool herringbone, I thought I would combine it with a pair of morning suit trousers to get the very formal look. I chose a predominently black striped trouser, unlike the more common grey stripes. So far, I've only worn this combination once. That was at a funeral, so it was perfect suited to the occasion.

 

[Nick D]

So my question is, how common were interior pockets on waistcoats? I have only ever seen them in this man's suits.

I have a waistcoat from the '40s (which is probably from a suit, alas) that has the interior pocket. None of my 3-pieces have them, but it's a feature I've seen from time to time. I almost never use mine, but I like that it's there.

This waistcoat here is the first time I've ever seen one completely unfaced. Do any of the other waistcoats from this man's wardrobe have no facings?

 

[Two Types]

This waistcoat here is the first time I've ever seen one completely unfaced. Do any of the other waistcoats from this man's wardrobe have no facings?

I will check and let you know. If my memory serves me right, they are all exactly the same. I even think that one of the suits had pockets on both sides inside the waistcoat.

 

[billyspew]

Here's my contribution:

This was probably made in the 1960s or 1970s, though the style is much more typical of the 1950s. It was made by a firm in the City of London, Dombey and Sons. I am guessing the date on the grounds of the cloth. The weight is more in keeping with later suits. The man who it belonged to had his suits made in virtually the same style, by the same tailors, for many years (I bought eight of them). The only real change is that the trousers get narrower and the waist larger in the later suits.


There has been much discussion on this thread of watch pockets: the trousers have two watch pockets, side adjusters, belt loops

The two pockets are an interesting feature. My Uncle had these features tailored into his suits during the 70's and 80's when waistcoats started going out of fashion - one was for his watch, the other was for his money clip which was also attached with a chain.

 

[esteban68]

Some good finds TT, my recent bespoke blue pinstripe find (other thread- vintage suit?) waa also made for a chap who had the same design made for many years, it's been back to the original tailor who made them and on chatting with him this Tuesday when I picked up the suit he stated that several of his clients preffer the 'old fasshioned' designs one even has high backed trousers with brace buttons and a rear belt adjuster (cinch back) he's in his 80's apparently!

 

[Two Types]

Some good finds TT, my recent bespoke blue pinstripe find (other thread- vintage suit?) waa also made for a chap who had the same design made for many years, it's been back to the original tailor who made them and on chatting with him this Tuesday when I picked up the suit he stated that several of his clients preffer the 'old fasshioned' designs one even has high backed trousers with brace buttons and a rear belt adjuster (cinch back) he's in his 80's apparently!

I hope that by the time I'm in my 80s I can still afford good clothes.
You need to keep an eye on this situation: I don't want to sound ghoulish, but sometime in the next few years that old chap's suits will be up for grabs!

 

[herringbonekid]

this is my favourite British made suit. i estimate the date at mid 30s but it could be later or even slightly earlier.
this suit has no whistles and bells. it is a stripped down, lean piece of man armour.
the finish is tough and workmanlike, almost brutal, not very precise, which is how i like suits to be made. i'm not really interested in delicate hand stitching and the like.
i'm much more interested in the way British mass produced suits were constructed than bespoke suits.


the trousers have 12" bottoms which gives the straightest silhouette possible.

they are high back with no rear pockets, or darts.

as on many high back British trousers, the waistband is on the front only.

they have one shallow pleat each side, my favourite type of front treatment. to me, it gives a leaner less fussy look than two pleats.

the jacket is a classic SB 3 button peaked lapel. notice that the pockets have no flaps.

the rear front darts go through the pocket and off the bottom edge of the jacket, a less common feature. essentially the front of the jacket is in two separate pieces each side,
hence the term 'quarters'. i've heard it said that only Anderson & Sheppard, the Saville Row tailors, match the stripes on their double-jetted pockets to the stripes on the body.
as you can see from this picture this is not true, as this is clearly not one of their suits.

the middle button has an additional long shanked button behind.

many British vintage suits have cuffs finished in this quirky manner.

one of the main things that sets this suit apart is the fabric. the colour is neither grey nor light brown but stone.. a muted colour somewhere between the two.
a subtle and evocative colour.
at first glance it appears to have dark red pinstripes. closer inspection reveals that it is actually alternate pinstripes of claret and burnt orange/dark brown. this is also unusual as most alternate pinstripes use obviously different colours for effect. having two colours so similar in tone and hue is another quirky and slightly bemusing feature.


i invite others to give an analysis of their favourite British suit !​

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[herringbonekid]

notice the additional long-shanked button ('link button') on this suit from a Burton catalogue circa 1934-36. this feature is more usually found on evening jackets of the period (below) rather than day wear.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.


Not a suit, but still of interest. A gentleman's "field" waistcoat? Who knows.

Whatever its purpose, this is a most elegant (allegedly faux) fur waistcoat from modern times: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390366783563

 

[yorkshirechap]

The single button is an interesting feature. I have a three piece suit by Jackson the Tailor (bought out by Burtons later). It is single breasted with a fairly narrow lapel and the single button with link. The lining inside has a quilted effect and the waistcoat is double breasted.
It is black with striped detailing so probably not a dress suit. It is a wool/terylene mix does this give an indication of age?

Rob

 

[herringbonekid]

It is a wool/terylene mix does this give an indication of age?

Terylene came in in the late 50s and would have been widespread in the 60s. i'm certain you wouldn't find it pre '56.

 

[Miss Sis]

That is a fantastic suit HBK. I love that material, quite unusual. Any clues who made it, or is it unmarked?

Kindest regards

Ben

 

[herringbonekid]

That is a fantastic suit HBK. I love that material, quite unusual. Any clues who made it, or is it unmarked?

no labels Ben, so it remains a bit of an enigma, but the evidence points to a mass produced suit. any ideas are welcome.
...and please do a similar dissection of one of your favourite suits when you have time.