Show us your British suits

[Nick D]

Stovel& Mason tailors, London, 1955 (this belonged to a rear admiral in the Royal Navy)

1950s Montague Burton gray flannel three piece

I have more, but these are the only ones I have good pictures of at the moment.

 

[herringbonekid]

Not a surprising result at all, hbk. It certainly fits with my own similar survey.

surprised me Baron ! without looking i would have guessed that about half of them had watch pockets. maybe because i like that feature i've over exaggerated it's importance in my mind. or maybe i'm just getting old and daft.

 

[Two Types]

1950s Montague Burton gray flannel three piece

That suit looks splendid. Great condition, great fit.

Well done.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I guess it means not surprising to me, as I looked about a year ago at all my trousers after I noticed the catalogues pushing watch pockets as a novelty. On 40s (CC41) suits, I think the wide watch pocket is pretty much ubiquitous, though not on true (verifiable, with the green labels) Demob suits, which tended not to have them.

I wonder if you've noticed also, the inside fabric for the front parts of jackets. How often are the inner lower parts made of multiple panels, rather than a single panel. I've never seen this on American jackets, but quite frequently on 30s British jackets. I shall survey my jackets tonight, and get some pics of what I mean. note also, that german tailor's labels tend to be on the RIGHT inside pocket, where British tend to be inside the LEFT inside jacket pocket.

I need to get out more …

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

I wonder if you've noticed also, the inside fabric for the front parts of jackets. How often are the inner lower parts made of multiple panels, rather than a single panel. I've never seen this on American jackets, but quite frequently on 30s British jackets.

yes... the facings of the jacket. this is purely to save fabric. rather than cutting a whole long piece out of the next clear length up the fabric, they would cobble it together out of odd bits. there's an art to fabric lay... how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric with minimal waste. ever seen the extra little piece on the inner leg near the crotch ? it's because you can't quite get 2 wide legged trouser shapes across the width of fabric (on the double) so it's more economical to add that extra little piece rather than cut another leg from the next length up the fabric. scrimping and saving obviously wasn't an American priority at the time.

 

[Qirrel]

yes... the facings of the jacket. this is purely to save fabric. rather than cutting a whole long piece out of the next clear length up the fabric, they would cobble it together out of odd bits. there's an art to fabric lay... how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric with minimal waste. ever seen the extra little piece on the inner leg near the crotch ? it's because you can't quite get 2 wide legged trouser shapes across the width of fabric (on the double) so it's more economical to add that extra little piece rather than cut another leg from the next length up the fabric. scrimping and saving obviously wasn't an American priority at the time.

This same thing also goes for fishtail backs, they are often sewn on separately.

 

[herringbonekid]

a typical British 1940s three button peaked lapel (not mine). notice how the height of the three buttons shortens the length of the lapel, something that has always bothered me a bit....

 

[herringbonekid]

This same thing also goes for fishtail backs, they are often sewn on separately.

true. they look pretty amazing though when done in one piece like this:

 

[Hal]

...notice how the height of the three buttons shortens the length of the lapel, something that has always bothered me a bit....

Yes; but wouldn't only the middle button be fastened?

 

[herringbonekid]

Yes; but wouldn't only the middle button be fastened?

you could, but in my experience British 30s and 40s suits with their sturdy chest canvasses don't 'roll' softly. they tend to hold their shape even when unbuttoned.

 

[Miss Sis]

Vents,

Vents were seen as Baron said on hacking jackets for a long time, then they appeared on sports jackets, and then on sports suits. The earliest suit I have with double vents, and original to the suit is a 1936 Tweed suit made by a West End tailor.

Certainly I have never seen them on a pre war double breasted suit, and never on anything but tweed suits. However, somewhere, I do have a period article that talks about vents, I just can not remember which magazine it is in. It certainly talks of them as being a new introduction on suits. I will have a look for it.

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Miss Sis]

I will scan this shortly when I get a chance. This is from a September 1939 Mens Only Mag (These were little periodicals full of stories and info, and not what you would expect today)

Anyhow, one advert is for the seasoned racegoer. It depicts a man in a Glen Check saxony suit. The description is as follows

.........Glen Check Saxony, the jacket having waistline ticket pocket, medium grey the preffered colouring; Jacket rather long, with side vents......'

 

[Miss Sis]

Again, my Style Upto Date catologue by Joseph May & Sons, which I date to around 1937 offer 'The Sportsman' A specially tailored Lounge suit for Field events, with a double vented back and outside ticket pocket'

 

[Miss Sis]

I have just checked, I have another suit, 1938, Brown check three peice, This has a twin vent also. Again, it is a 'sports' suit. It is not Tweed though, more of a worsted.

Sorry not a great picture

 

[Miss Sis]

This is the 1936 Suit

The tweed is quite amazing up close!

 

[Miss Sis]

Just for contrast, this is a 1926 French suit. That has a single vent, and a much boxier profile than its British counterparts

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I don't own any british suits so I can't contribute much. I've seen an Apparel Arts picture with a vented jacket here

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I suspect Ben has forgotten his own login details and is stealing internet time from Miss Sis …

Ben posting from the account belonging to Miss Sis has an element of drag about it....Not that there's anything wrong with that.....

 

[Lexybeast]

Ben, thanks for the vent info and pics! Always thought double vents were much more modern, I had no idea they'd been around that long.

 

[PADDY]

(Apologies if this duplicates - Computer glitches at this end): Mid 40's CC41 Montague Burton 3 pc in 'heavy wool,' displaying dark navy with light blue and cream pin striping.
Fully lined.
Condition NOS.