Show us your British suits

[Mario]

so which parts of a jacket are lined in a half-lined? Ive only ever had a couple of suits in my life...and they've been cheap, off the peg, marks & spencers ones, lol

There is an old (and short) thread on jacket lining.

 

[PADDY]

(As Scott quite rightly pointed out, there are threads out there on British Suits. So this may very well be merged at some point).

1940 Bird's Eye, SB Peak lapel.

 

[PADDY]

Montague Burton cc41 DB 3pc. (GoodWood Festival).

 

[scotrace]

Here is an excellent thread on suit trowsers.


A good one on the Duke's suits. (Of Windsor, not Cowpokes)

Unfortunately some of the image links are busted.

 

[Blackadder]

Definitely depends on the climate. I think the British are so used to wearing heavy weight full lining that they even wear them in warmer climate. I was in court with a QC from UK during summer in Hong Kong and he was wearing a three piece thick dark grey suits obviously made for autumn/winter. Traditionally, good fabrics are supposed to be heavy, thick and with high resistance and tolerance but they are too darn hot to wear. Save for the couple of weeks that are really cold each year, I can only wear thinner four-season fabrics. The Italian is better suited for me in HK.
Oh I am talking about the fabrics from Italian company like Loro Piana and Cerruti and not the cut. I prefer British tailoring.

 

[avedwards]

Early to mid 50s suit by "Jackson the Tailor". It's interesting as the jacket is in the Continental style with narrow lapels but the trousers and waistcoat are more traditional with external brace buttons and a split back seam.

As regards the weight of British suits, I've recently acquired a mid blue 50s suit which is very light weight by vintage standards. There are no labels so there's no indication whether it's British or not other than the seller being based in the UK.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

We should be able to tell whether it wasn't british at least. Post some pics and i'll see if I can see any tell-tale signs.

bk

p.s. You aren't on a sight-seeing trip to UCL are you (Weds 26th)?

 

[avedwards]

I will post pictures when I collect it from the tailors next Monday. All the tailoress was able to conclude was that it is probably late 50s or early 60s because of the way the canvas is made, and that it is hand made. My guess is that it's probably 50s rather than 60s because the trousers have cuffs and internal brace buttons which I think were losing popularity by the 60s.

I'm afraid I wasn't in UCL. I've currently applied and received offers from the Universities of Nottingham, Leicester, Birmingham, Lancaster and East Anglia (in order of preference). I have yet to visit the first three.

 

[avedwards]

By the way Baron, do you know anything about "Jackson the Tailor"? I've seen several vintage pieces with their name on it, all of which appear to be very well made.

Also, do you know when belt loops first began being popular on British suits? All the suits I've seen have brace buttons and occasionally adjusters on the side of the waistband.

 

[esteban68]

Here's my newly aquired Guards 'thornproof' c1950?
The photo's aren't great and it needs taking up but is just about mint;

I've been looking for a suit that almost fits for over a year now and this is the first one I've seen that I'really liked in my size save for sleeves and legs needing shortening.

 

[herringbonekid]

I know herringbonekid has a linen number that I think was CC41.

Baron, i wish that were true. i have a white linen suit but it's your typical American NRA belt-back variety.

as for the initial question about differences (1930s-40s) i'd say the main ones are:

-heavier fabric (16-18 oz typically) and i must say better quality fabric than American, though that's controversial.
-heavier chest canvas, giving a sturdier front.
-thicker padded shoulders.
-full lining (unless a summer weight, tropical jacket).
-belt-backs and patch pockets are rare as hen's teeth (unless on Norfolk shooting suits).

-trousers have forward facing pleats, usually a large flapped watch pocket, one back pocket (sometimes none). there is a typically Brit way of constructing the fly/ waistband but that really needs photos to illustrate (you can see some in the trouser thread linked by Scotrace on the last page).

once you've handled several British vintage suits you instantly recognise the type of lining, trouser buttons, sleeve lining etc. the differences might seem minimal at first, but they are very distinctive nonetheless (the differences also become more pronounced as vintage geek level increases). photos needed at this point, but handling of actual garments can tell you so much more.

(edit... here's a typical 30-40s example below)

 

[herringbonekid]

and a wartime DB jacket:

 

[Matt Deckard]

I've always loved the cut of those fang like points you'd see on many UK vests.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Demob suit I used to own. Very badly made.

Demob labels.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Waistcoat from a CC41 suit I used to own. Bought way back when from Senator Jack, and never fit right, so sold it on.

 

[esteban68]

Here's my newly aquired Guards 'thornproof' c1950?
The photo's aren't great and it needs taking up but is just about mint;

I've been looking for a suit that almost fits for over a year now and this is the first one I've seen that I'really liked in my size save for sleeves and legs needing shortening.

This has now gone to my tailor and I just wondered has anyone any ideas as to what colour of waistcoat would suit it? I am pretty sure it will need one as the trousers are quite high waisted.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Baron, i wish that were true. i have a white linen suit but it's your typical American NRA belt-back variety.

as for the initial question about differences (1930s-40s) i'd say the main ones are:

-heavier fabric (16-18 oz typically) and i must say better quality fabric than American, though that's controversial.
-heavier chest canvas, giving a sturdier front.
-thicker padded shoulders.
-full lining (unless a summer weight, tropical jacket).
-belt-backs and patch pockets are rare as hen's teeth (unless on Norfolk shooting suits).

-trousers have forward facing pleats, usually a large flapped watch pocket, one back pocket (sometimes none). there is a typically Brit way of constructing the fly/ waistband but that really needs photos to illustrate (you can see some in the trouser thread linked by Scotrace on the last page).

once you've handled several British vintage suits you instantly recognise the type of lining, trouser buttons, sleeve lining etc. the differences might seem minimal at first, but they are very distinctive nonetheless (the differences also become more pronounced as vintage geek level increases). photos needed at this point, but handling of actual garments can tell you so much more.

Excellent description. I'd add that just about all of these details are also found in continental European suits of the time. Golden era French, German, Scandinavian, Eastern European, and even Northern Italian suits looked much like their British cousins did.

 

[Miss Sis]

I had to reply. Using Miss Sis's account here (benstephens)

I agree with Herrinbonekids observations. I believe there would have been a good number of suits around in lighter fabrics.

I have a good number of suits in my collection that are made from lighter materials, say 13-15oz wools. We also see them advertised, especially lighter flannel suits for the summer. My belief is, as the Baron pointed out, that economics come a lot into this. If a man, say had two suits, A lighter one for summer and a heavier for winter, which one will wear out with constant wear?

Also, a lot of the suits I have in lighter wools, ie the ones that have survived, are made by very top end tailors. These in general would have been owned by wealthier people with access to better cloth, and more clothes, so less likely to wear them out.

However, I do have one, not cut very well, but in a lighter wool, obviously off the peg. I do believe they were around, just not in huge quantity at the time, and even less so now.

Marc, for people like myself and Baron, we can normally tell a German suit or French suit from 100 paces. Although similar, they are vastly different to the accustomed eye, even in fabric, cut and construction.

Kindest Regards

Ben

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Marc, for people like myself and Baron, we can normally tell a German suit or French suit from 100 paces. Although similar, they are vastly different to the accustomed eye, even in fabric, cut and construction.

Then you're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. I've seen vintage British and continental European suits, but not as many as you, Baron, HK, etc. I admit that I don't detect those vast differences.

 

[PADDY]

Good to have you back Ben