Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Drappa]

I was wondering if anyone can give me some tips on sewing jersey/elastic fabric without having it pucker?
I have a jersey pencil skirt I love, but it's much too big, so I tried taking in the sides, but it pulls down and gets really wavy. Do I need to use special needles in my machine?
I have a Janome quilting machine in case anyone is familiar. Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[ohairas]

Help with lace trim

Hi girls~
I'm trying to replicate Scarlett's lace collar worn with her Christmas dinner gown from GWTW. There is a deminsional lace on top that I can't quite figure out and I'm hoping you can help!
At first glance, it seems to be gathered lace sewn on top in a swirl. However, if you look at the right side of the pic, you'll see how the lace seems to "spiral", not just gather.

I'm thinking I've seen some sort of pre-made trim like this before, am I crazy? Is there a name for it!?Would love to find it... if not, I'll just go with gathered lace. Thanks for any help! I'll be wearing this to a gwtw event this weekend.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/85469550@N00/1344138321/in/set-72157601904689562/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/85469550@N00/1344138521/in/set-72157601904689562/
Sorry I cannot get pics to load here for some reason today!

My collar so far~
http://flic.kr/p/8PRt7R
Two different laces I have tried... which, btw, options around here are limited!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/85469550@N00/5136622104/in/photostream/

 

[ohairas]

Never mind about the lace collar all! I figured it out~ I need two sided lace to gather and then turn to swirl it!
Nikki

 

[Lauren]

Ohairas, that's going to be so cool! Glad you figured out your lace trim. That's really a unique treatment! I had seen pre-made gathered trim on a net background with a swirled design but not that swirled around itself as well. Really neat!

Drappa, I wish I could help but I'm scared to death of sewing with knit fabrics. I think I heard that you use a special ball point needle and sew with a zig zag (so the seam can stretch instead of break like a straight stitch), and don't stretch it too much when sewing, but I might be mistaken.

MarieAnne, I've used seam binding to do that sort of thing, but only on pieces with a straight seam or very slight curve. I think it would pucker and be hard to lay smooth on curves since it's not cut on the bias. I have never tried with ribbon- but for some reason I think it might be too stiff? Let us know what you decide to use and how it works.

 

[MarieAnne]

Thanks Lauren. I ended up just using my pinking shears. I thought I was going to be able to apply my hong kong finish after the zipper. Unfortunately after hand picking the zipper (center back lapped) I didn't have enough free allowance to make it possible. I should have applied the finish first and then inserted the zipper. I'm making a tapered skirt with a double inverted box pleat at the back for a kick pleat. I'm learning so much on this project.

Drappa - Like Lauren I'm terrified of sewing knits. I know that a serger is optimal for sewing knits. Do you know someone who can lend you one?

ohairas - That's going to be so cool. Could you post pictures in the making so we can see how you are doing it?

 

[Drappa]

Thanks Ladies,

I'm not quite terrified yet, but it is annoying. Unfortunately I don't even know anyone who can sew on a button, much less have a serger, but I found a special foot and setting on my Janome that I will try tomorrow. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[Ms Sew-n-Sew]

Drappa - it's been a while since I've used jersey, but ditto what Lauren said - a ball point needle will help.

 

[MissHawthorne]

So I've been reading this thread, and I've been doing MASSIVE amounts of research, and I've found that tracing all my vintage patterns is the best idea. However, I'm at a loss as to how this is accomplished. How do you get the pattern to lie still on the paper, do you use pencil or marker, what kind of paper is best for tracing? I want to start my winter wardrobe, but I'm at a loss.

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

I use easy pattern and I pin it to the fabric with 3 to 4 pins while tracing. I use a pencil and a french curve or sewing curve to guide my lines. If you ever want help and you want to head out my way I can show you what I do sometime if you want I think you live in the cities right? You can find Easy Pattern at JoAnne Fabrics as well as the sewing curve and the french curves can be found a blick art materials or other art suply stores. Tracing is nice because it not just saves your pattern but you can also make any size adjustments on patterns. Post 2 more times Ms Hawthorne and you can PM me.

 

[Lauren]

I have a big roll of butcher type paper I got from my dad a long time ago. I usually clear off my dining room tape and put one of those cardboard cutting mats on top, then after I ironed out my pieces at a low setting I'll spread them on top of the paper and carefully use a pin at the critical points to hold the pattern in place, then trace around the outline with pencil in little dots to mark the curves of the pieces. After I take off the pieces I connect the dots with a clear ruler and french curve.

 

[deadpandiva]

I have a roll of tracing patter from Art Materials for my printed patterns and brown mailing paper for the non printed ones. I use smooth stones as wieghts to hold the pattern pieces in place. I might try pinning though. that sounds easier.

 

[MissHawthorne]

Thank you, ladies! I feel a little less lost now.

 

[Smuterella]

Ladies

I'm sure we are all very familiar with this video, but I'd like to make a dress like the versatile number in it. Can anyone recommend a pattern for a simple dress like this?

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=38235

 

[moonmatrix]

I do not know if this the apropriate place to post this because it is more a question then anything. I am trying to locate where to buy the parts for making the belts. I have looked everywheres and I just come up blank it might help if I could remember what they are called, lol.

 

[Tulip]

Ladies

I'm sure we are all very familiar with this video, but I'd like to make a dress like the versatile number in it. Can anyone recommend a pattern for a simple dress like this?

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=38235

http://www.pastpatterns.com/9047.html

http://www.yourpatternshop.com/item...1-Misses-Two-Piece-Dress-Size-18--Bust-36.htm

Neither patterns are identical to the dress in the video, but hopefully they're close enough. I'm sure someone will find a closer approximation. The first will probably be easier to make, as I think it's a re-drafted copy? At any rate, it comes with illustrated instructions. The latter is unprinted and will require a lot of guesstimation - at least, that's what I've heard about such things!

I've just purchased my first (two) vintage pattern(s - I couldn't only buy one - it would be lonely) and I'm incredibly excited to get started! Good luck

Ooh had a thought and don't know if this is off-topic, but does anyone know of (vintage) sewing circles in London?

 

[Smuterella]

I don't know of any but I'd certainly be up for starting one. Where in London are you?

 

[Tulip]

I don't know of any but I'd certainly be up for starting one. Where in London are you?

That sounds like a marvvy plan! I'm in Bethnal Green, where abouts are you? Any other takers?

 

[Undertow]

Excellent advice all, and thanks for the sites! When I move into a house shortly (been looking for a few weeks now), I'm going to be sewing some curtains, too.

 

[Smuterella]

That sounds like a marvvy plan! I'm in Bethnal Green, where abouts are you? Any other takers?

In in Hackney Downs....hmmmm, this could work!

 

[ZombieGirl]

Hope no one is annoyed if I add another question about grading... I get the general idea of grading but I'm wondering what I do with a skirt. I only need to add a couple inches to the width of it... do I divide up the added amount and add equally to each panel or do I just add width to the front and back panels?