Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[SugarKitten]

Okay, please advise?

I'm making my first ever lined piece. It's a vintage pattern swing coat.

I've got the outside finished, with the exception of the cuffs, and the instructions are *very* light when it comes to the lining. I've read the section in my 60's copy of Vogue book of sewing, and it makes it sound pretty simple, but I'm very intimidated. I'm using a very soft brown wool, and I don't want to have to rip too much out if I screw up because I don't think I'll be able to get the stitches out without damaging the fabric. What should I watch out for?

 

[crwritt]

Okay, please advise?

I'm making my first ever lined piece. It's a vintage pattern swing coat.

I've got the outside finished, with the exception of the cuffs, and the instructions are *very* light when it comes to the lining. I've read the section in my 60's copy of Vogue book of sewing, and it makes it sound pretty simple, but I'm very intimidated. I'm using a very soft brown wool, and I don't want to have to rip too much out if I screw up because I don't think I'll be able to get the stitches out without damaging the fabric. What should I watch out for?

You shouldn't have too much trouble with your lining if you assemble it by machine and sew it in to the garment by hand. A couple goofs to watch out for would be making it too tight, having it too long so the lining hangs below the jacket hem, and, the classic, getting the sleeves in twisted.

 

[NicoleAnn]

I really wanna make this coat, but I'm scared
it says it's a very loose fitting reversible flared coat which has a stand up collar, patch pockets with flaps and below elbow length kimono sleeves with deep cuffs.
its takes 4 1/8 yards of fabric for 1 side.
has anyone made this, are there any suggestions? i was thinking maybe i should make it out of walmart fabric first. im nervous about the whole reversible part.

 

[Miss 1929]

Generally, it's always a good idea to make a muslin/cheap fabric version first, just to get the feel of the garment. And then if you have to do any fitting changes (unlikely in this loose a garment), you can then take apart the muslin and us it for the pattern.

I don't see anything at all scary in that coat though. In something that unfitted, there isn't much to go wrong on. Be brave!

 

[Tatum]

*raises hand*

I have a question for all the ladies...

Thanks to you all, I have started sewing again. I am currently working on a dress (Vintage Vogue repro), and in the midst, I had to take my machine in for repairs. Do any of you have a "spare" machine for such incidents, and/or do you recommend to have one? It is so frustrating to have a project half-finished staring at you every day! (Especially when the muslin came out so nicely.....)

The machine I have is considered vintage (late '70s, it was my mother's, she sewed all my clothes on it when I was little, and lots of things for herself), and it seems that it ends up in the repair shop at least twice a year! I would never give it up (when it works, it is fabulous), but having it repaired all the time is driving me crazy. It is much of the reason that I give up sewing every few years. I would not consider myself talented at sewing, by any means, but it IS something I enjoy doing, so I would love to hear your thoughts.

Thank you! I love looking at all the things you have all made, they are so inspiring!

 

[Miss 1929]

Tatum, I just started using my new old machine, a 51 Singer, but I am keeping my modern one in the closet just in case! Plus, the modern one has a free arm, which is great for sleeves, and an automatic buttonholer and zig zag, whereas the old machin has bizarre attachments for those things, which I hope will be easy to use - if they aren't, I can still use my backup machine! I think it would be so frustrating to only have one machine and have it break down. Hope they fix it for you soon!

 

[crwritt]

I have a question for all the ladies...

Thanks to you all, I have started sewing again. I am currently working on a dress (Vintage Vogue repro), and in the midst, I had to take my machine in for repairs. Do any of you have a "spare" machine for such incidents, and/or do you recommend to have one? It is so frustrating to have a project half-finished staring at you every day! (Especially when the muslin came out so nicely.....)

The machine I have is considered vintage (late '70s, it was my mother's, she sewed all my clothes on it when I was little, and lots of things for herself), and it seems that it ends up in the repair shop at least twice a year! I would never give it up (when it works, it is fabulous), but having it repaired all the time is driving me crazy. It is much of the reason that I give up sewing every few years. I would not consider myself talented at sewing, by any means, but it IS something I enjoy doing, so I would love to hear your thoughts.

Thank you! I love looking at all the things you have all made, they are so inspiring!

Tatum, just my opinion, but a sewing machine that has to go into the shop twice a year is a bit too problematic, and so expensive at $60 per trip! I sew nearly every day and have a bunch of sewing machines, different brands and ages. I've learned to disassemble and clean the servicable parts to keep them running, and rarely have to take them in for repair. Usually they aren't really broken, as in parts needing replacement, they just need a good dusting and oiling.
Here is a Threads article on the subject
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4731/preventive-sewing-machine-maintenance

 

[BoPeep]

I agree with crwritt. If you're not already doing your own lube and oil jobs, Tatum, it would really be beneficial to start! I totally understand the sentimental aspect of the machine, but it's not that old. It shouldn't be breaking down that often. My mother still has her '65 Singer that she bought when she was in her 20s. Uses it everyday and services it herself. I sew on my grandmother's 1947 Singer and my "back-up" machine is an '81 Singer but I only use it for the zig-zag. Having a back-up machine isn't a bad idea, but I would try to fix your mother's machine permanently. Or set it in the corner for decoration and use something reliable. Don't let it ruin your enjoyment of sewing!

 

[Tatum]

BoPeep and crwritt, thanks for the replies. I appreciate it!

I know for sure that it needed the bobbin case replaced, as it had developed a gouge so the upper thread was catching...it is one of the Singer models that has the funny drop-in bobbin. I am pretty mechanical and found a schematic online, but I saw what I had to do to get in there and I got scared.

Yup, $60 or so is a ton of money when you add it up. Thank you for the link, there were a few things I didn't know (like using muslin to clean the tension, I always just relied on compressed air and a little tiny brush).

It just killed me to lose so much time the other day...it had been running perfectly, then birdnest after birdnest.... I tried everything that I could think of, then everything I found online. The worst was when I took it in, and the repair guy said, "Hey, you were just here three months ago." (I took it in for a once-over when we moved, as I was ready to attempt sewing again after having it in storage for a year.) After asking why I'm there, he says, "Oh, you just threaded it wrong." I almost cried. I am not kidding, I have known how to thread this machine since I was SEVEN, and I rethreaded it at least three dozen times that day to try to fix the issue. I showed him the bobbin case and he said, "Oh. OK, I'll give it another once-over while I'm in there."

Mom got a chuckle out of it. She started complaining about her Bernina being fickle and asked me if I'd like to trade (she quilts now). She loves that I am trying to sew again.

I guess I am going to see how it does when it comes back from the shop, and start looking for a new machine. Any suggestions in a reasonable price range? And heck, what kind of price range am I looking at? Used, new, what do you all think?

Thank you again. You are all so wonderful, I can't say that enough!

 

[Geesie]

I really wanna make this coat, but I'm scared
it says it's a very loose fitting reversible flared coat which has a stand up collar, patch pockets with flaps and below elbow length kimono sleeves with deep cuffs.
its takes 4 1/8 yards of fabric for 1 side.
has anyone made this, are there any suggestions? i was thinking maybe i should make it out of walmart fabric first. im nervous about the whole reversible part.

I have that pattern, haven't tried making it yet - what kind of fabrics are you considering for the final garment?

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

BoPeep and crwritt, thanks for the replies. I appreciate it!

I know for sure that it needed the bobbin case replaced, as it had developed a gouge so the upper thread was catching...it is one of the Singer models that has the funny drop-in bobbin. I am pretty mechanical and found a schematic online, but I saw what I had to do to get in there and I got scared.

Yup, $60 or so is a ton of money when you add it up. Thank you for the link, there were a few things I didn't know (like using muslin to clean the tension, I always just relied on compressed air and a little tiny brush).

It just killed me to lose so much time the other day...it had been running perfectly, then birdnest after birdnest.... I tried everything that I could think of, then everything I found online. The worst was when I took it in, and the repair guy said, "Hey, you were just here three months ago." (I took it in for a once-over when we moved, as I was ready to attempt sewing again after having it in storage for a year.) After asking why I'm there, he says, "Oh, you just threaded it wrong." I almost cried. I am not kidding, I have known how to thread this machine since I was SEVEN, and I rethreaded it at least three dozen times that day to try to fix the issue. I showed him the bobbin case and he said, "Oh. OK, I'll give it another once-over while I'm in there."

Mom got a chuckle out of it. She started complaining about her Bernina being fickle and asked me if I'd like to trade (she quilts now). She loves that I am trying to sew again.

I guess I am going to see how it does when it comes back from the shop, and start looking for a new machine. Any suggestions in a reasonable price range? And heck, what kind of price range am I looking at? Used, new, what do you all think?

Thank you again. You are all so wonderful, I can't say that enough!

Tatum I am just starting to sew again myself. I had a singer a few years ago that kept having problems so I asked a few sewer that I knew used their machines a lot what they liked. Most liked pretty expensive models but my sons daycare provider said that she was sewing a lot with some other women when her daughter was doing lots of competitive dance. She said she and another women both had Kenmore's that never broke down but plenty of others had machine going into the shop. So I went and got myself a kenmore. So far I have been pretty happy with it. We had a water leak in our basement a few years ago and my manual was destroyed so I looked for one online but couldn't find one. I finally called sears to get a new one and they do charge for it like a part. I was a bit annoyed at that but have otherwise been happy with the kenmore and the prices are fairly reasonable. You can also find lots of used machines at thrift stores or estate sales. I have everything from a treadle singer on up to the kenmore. I guess I have about 6 machines total at my house and one on loan to my mom. Its not a bad idea to find a back up and learn to clean and oil it yourself I am just starting to learn to do that part.

 

[Tatum]

Thanks, Land-O-Lakes... I just inherited a friend's old White, it is a tank like my Singer. It's pretty basic (unlike my Singer), but what the heck, it was free. The feed dogs are running backwards so I need to have it serviced, but yay, I found my backup! So I can quit complaining...

I got my machine back from the shop, and it is running beautifully again. The bobbin case was replaced. I was right, that was the issue. The dress I was working on got shelved...I am not sure if I did something wrong, but the fit seems off, so I am going to take a break from it until this weekend, let my mind forget about the frustrations. The first thing I did when I got my machine back was put the lining in it, and now, something's wrong. My muslin was perfect, go figure!

In spite of that, since having it back, I have put together a chemise (Renaissance style slip) for a girlfriend for Halloween, and I have an underbust corset (for me, one of the many Halloween parties, this costume is a zombie pirate) almost complete, I just have to finish the bottom. Long live the internets for DIY patterns!

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

Thanks, Land-O-Lakes... I just inherited a friend's old White, it is a tank like my Singer. It's pretty basic (unlike my Singer), but what the heck, it was free. The feed dogs are running backwards so I need to have it serviced, but yay, I found my backup! So I can quit complaining...

I got my machine back from the shop, and it is running beautifully again. The bobbin case was replaced. I was right, that was the issue. The dress I was working on got shelved...I am not sure if I did something wrong, but the fit seems off, so I am going to take a break from it until this weekend, let my mind forget about the frustrations. The first thing I did when I got my machine back was put the lining in it, and now, something's wrong. My muslin was perfect, go figure!

In spite of that, since having it back, I have put together a chemise (Renaissance style slip) for a girlfriend for Halloween, and I have an underbust corset (for me, one of the many Halloween parties, this costume is a zombie pirate) almost complete, I just have to finish the bottom. Long live the internets for DIY patterns!

You sound like me I always have a few projects brewing at once cause I usually do get either frustrated of just plain stuck and need the help of someone more experienced. So I start on one of my many other projects until that one gets me stuck. Hmm wonder why I feel like I never finish anything. Anyway I am stuck right now so hoping we have craftnite this week otherwise I will have to make a special visit to one of my sewing mentors. Good sewing to all and to all a good night.

 

[Tatum]

You sound like me I always have a few projects brewing at once cause I usually do get either frustrated of just plain stuck and need the help of someone more experienced. So I start on one of my many other projects until that one gets me stuck. Hmm wonder why I feel like I never finish anything. Anyway I am stuck right now so hoping we have craftnite this week otherwise I will have to make a special visit to one of my sewing mentors. Good sewing to all and to all a good night.

I have found that it helps with ANY project. I do the same thing with work; if one job is making me bonkers, I switch to another.

Fortunately, do have that darling Simplicity pattern (3673) and tons of fabric, and everything I have read here and elsewhere says that it is a breeze, so I think I will try to get one banged out this weekend. I had to go out of town this week with the hubby, so all my sewing is going to wait!

 

[Mugwump]

So much inspiration!

Wow, this thread is terrific - thanks to all that have posted! :eusa_clap I too have a question regarding sewing machine shopping, insofar as brands that people here use. I see that Kenmore is listed above, and Singer is mentioned as well (the sewing machine I use is an old Singer from the late 60's / early 70's that comes in a table-top-like cabinet), but I was wondering if there are any other models worth scoping out. I'm not looking for fancy, programmable embriodery / quilting-type features, and my spending limit is flexible. I'm certainly not afraid of doing my own maintenance (I do all the cleaning, oiling, etc. on my current machine), but I have to admit, I'd prefer something like the workhorse that I have now.

Any ideas / help / suggestions would be most appreciated...

Keep on sewing!

Oh, and thanks to Lauren's and Lady Day's Etsy shops, I have far too many patterns to get cracking on! But I'm not addicted...

 

[NicoleAnn]

I have that pattern, haven't tried making it yet - what kind of fabrics are you considering for the final garment?

I was thinking light weight woolens, maybe a plain colored thicker flannel.
what were you thinking?

 

[NicoleAnn]

hello ladies, i have a question about dying clothes.
i bought these early 60's wool or i wanna say thick tweed pants at an antique store, they were my size and only a dollar so i bought them, but they are an ugly orange color which makes them almost look 70s. i wanted to know if you recommend me dying them black?

 

[palespider]

pants- ugh. love and hate. I have my eye on a pattern but it does not fit me- has anyone had much luck with just adding inches to the outer seams to fit and does that work well. Can it be that easy? *hope*

I know "only one way to find out" but id like to save myself the hassle if someone has been there and done that and think nonono.

 

[Tatum]

pants- ugh. love and hate. I have my eye on a pattern but it does not fit me- has anyone had much luck with just adding inches to the outer seams to fit and does that work well. Can it be that easy? *hope*

I know "only one way to find out" but id like to save myself the hassle if someone has been there and done that and think nonono.

Kamikat did a fabulous tutorial on her blog about grading patterns. I haven't needed to use it yet, but I read it and bookmarked it! She makes it sound so simple. Here is a link: http://newvintage.wordpress.com/2009/05/13/how-to-grade-patterns/

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

If you only need to add an inch or two you could probably just add it on to the side seam with out too much problems it probably all depends on the pants and the amount needed to add. If changing the pattern I would by some less expensive fabric like muslin and do a trial run so you don't waste money and good fabric.