Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Sickofitcindy]

Hope no one is annoyed if I add another question about grading... I get the general idea of grading but I'm wondering what I do with a skirt. I only need to add a couple inches to the width of it... do I divide up the added amount and add equally to each panel or do I just add width to the front and back panels?

Hi Zombiegirl,
How much are you looking to grade overall? I personally would add to each panel but others may have differing opinions.

If it's just a few inches it should be fine. I once did a large grade and added almost 2 inches to each panel. I ended up leaving all of the extra in the center front and center back seams but taking out all that I had added to the side seams.

 

[kamikat]

It depends on how much total you need to add and how many panels there are. If it's a skirt that has 8+ gores, always divide and add to all panels because the panels are pretty small and having one set of panels bigger than the rest will be more obvious. Generally speaking, if I'm only adding a total of 4in (1 in to each side seam) I only do it to the side seams, rather the the center front and back. If you add to the center front and back, it will draw attention to your tummy and bum, making them appear larger. Keeping the center panels smaller than the side panels help create an illusion of a smaller tummy.

 

[Land-O-LakesGal]

It depends on how much total you need to add and how many panels there are. If it's a skirt that has 8+ gores, always divide and add to all panels because the panels are pretty small and having one set of panels bigger than the rest will be more obvious. Generally speaking, if I'm only adding a total of 4in (1 in to each side seam) I only do it to the side seams, rather the the center front and back. If you add to the center front and back, it will draw attention to your tummy and bum, making them appear larger. Keeping the center panels smaller than the side panels help create an illusion of a smaller tummy.

I agree with Kamikat adding equally usually works pretty well if you do it evenly but probably not over an inch to each panel.

 

[ZombieGirl]

Thanks so much, ladies! That helps a lot!

 

[HepKitty]

ok I'm almost a yard short on this snow leopard flannel for the dress I want to make. I'm able to make things fit completely ignoring the grain lines, it's not like I need to worry about the pattern. My question is this: will the any-which-way grain lines survive wearing and washing, or will it stretch in all sorts of bizarre ways? BTW the big empty spot next to piece 9 will be more 11 pieces and piece 1 will fit better, taking a picture was kind of an afterthought and I just tossed the piece back on. Also, since I'm short, I'll be folding the pattern up at the shorter hem line.

Here is the layout (not cut yet, only have a few pieces pinned):

 

[Lady Day]

My question is this: will the any-which-way grain lines survive wearing and washing, or will it stretch in all sorts of bizarre ways?

Yes, yes, and yes!
Grain lines are there for a very good reason.Its one of the first things you should honor when making a garment. Why not make the dress two tone? Make the facing pieces in a different color. You should really worry about the skirt and front bodice. The other parts of the pattern can be pieced.

Also, you might get a tighter fit with the fabric if you didn't cut it on the fold. It's a lot more work, but it might be worth it.

Good luck!

LD

 

[crwritt]

ok I'm almost a yard short on this snow leopard flannel for the dress I want to make. I'm able to make things fit completely ignoring the grain lines, it's not like I need to worry about the pattern. My question is this: will the any-which-way grain lines survive wearing and washing, or will it stretch in all sorts of bizarre ways? BTW the big empty spot next to piece 9 will be more 11 pieces and piece 1 will fit better, taking a picture was kind of an afterthought and I just tossed the piece back on. Also, since I'm short, I'll be folding the pattern up at the shorter hem line.

Here is the layout (not cut yet, only have a few pieces pinned):

Ignoring the grain lines is a bad idea. It will result in the finished garment hanging badly and shrinking and twisting in odd ways.
You can try folding the fabric on the cross, to see if you can fit things in better,or lay the fabric out in one layer and you may be able to puzzle it in a little better.Cutting your pockets , linings and facings from another fabric will free up some of the yardage
for the skirt and bodice.

 

[Drappa]

Thanks Ladies,

I'm not quite terrified yet, but it is annoying. Unfortunately I don't even know anyone who can sew on a button, much less have a serger, but I found a special foot and setting on my Janome that I will try tomorrow. I'll let you know how it works out.

In case anyone is interested I just wanted to add that I have now taken it in and it worked like a charm. I got ballpoint needles and used the satin foot and an overlock stitch on my machine, and this solved the problem completely.

 

[HepKitty]

Ignoring the grain lines is a bad idea. It will result in the finished garment hanging badly and shrinking and twisting in odd ways.
You can try folding the fabric on the cross, to see if you can fit things in better,or lay the fabric out in one layer and you may be able to puzzle it in a little better.Cutting your pockets , linings and facings from another fabric will free up some of the yardage
for the skirt and bodice.

Thank you LadyDay and crwitt. I thought about that, using black for the side panels, or using another pattern entirely. Will probably do the latter, since I can't get my little hands on more of this fabric. I tried already and it was gone the next day

 

[MissHawthorne]

One more question! I've started on a skirt for Christmas, and everything is basted up. I'm ready to put in the fasteners, I was thinking snaps would be easier, but the directions are confusing me. They tell me the "finish back edge with a 2 3/4" wide (cut) underlap, finish front edge with a 2" wide facing"
What in the world?! I have no idea what that means, and would it be easier to use a zipper?

 

[crwritt]

One more question! I've started on a skirt for Christmas, and everything is basted up. I'm ready to put in the fasteners, I was thinking snaps would be easier, but the directions are confusing me. They tell me the "finish back edge with a 2 3/4" wide (cut) underlap, finish front edge with a 2" wide facing"
What in the world?! I have no idea what that means, and would it be easier to use a zipper?

You would do something like this:
http://www.joyousnotions.com/2009/02/making-placket.html
And yes, it might be easier to use a zipper.

 

[TheLibrarian]

Newby sewing question... I have a vintage sewing machine that does the basics, straight line, zig-zag and hems. It's a Singer Stylist 570 if I recall correctly. Heavy like the dickens, and has a wooden carrying case. My experience is basic at best.[huh]

So here is my situation.... I'm trying to make a circle skirt. Pretty basic I figure... When I'm sewing though, I end up with "clumps" of thread on the underside :rage: I've tried fixing the tension ad it doesn't seem to help. I don't know what else to do... :rage: Please help before I lose my mind!

So this is a seriously late reply, but just in case it's useful to someone else:

This looks similar to the vintage Singer I have, and I hate to say this, but... Most mid-century and later Singers were made with aluminum disks in the machinery. Aluminum warps. So my Singer does the same thing that yours is doing, and short of taking the whole thing apart and rebuilding it from scratch with new bits and pieces there is not much that can be done about it. When the disks are warped the tension can't be adjusted properly.

I also have a vintage White that is twenty-five years older and is solid steel. That one does a beautiful job of the basics, and always will, because it's darn hard to warp steel. Of course, it also weighs about twice as much, so I guess it has its drawbacks too

 

[NancyLouise]

A question about belts on dresses (and shirts, I suppose)!
I'm working on a dress pattern (in a lightweight cotton) that only calls for muslin interfacing for the belt. Do you find this is substantial or do you typically use belting, etc? I'd like to finish my dress, but I'd rather have it turn out better than quicker.
Thanks you guys

 

[Sickofitcindy]

I personallly like to use belting for dresses. It gives it a much crisper and sturdier look.

 

[sheeplady]

Question About Lining Suits:

I have picked up some various fabrics throughout the years and am planning on making some suits for summer/spring/fall in a couple of months. The "exterior" fabrics I have are linen, cotton, and a light wool blend (I am planning on several suits- not mixing the fabrics).

What do you ladies recommend for lining a suit (fabric material)?

I am looking for something that breathes. Some of the cheaper pieces of modern clothing I have are lined with some type of polyester blend that I don't like. Most of the linings in my fabric store seem to be made out of polyester or rayon. I would like a natural fiber.

When I did a search I saw a posting that indicated that some suits should be lined with Bemberg, but I am not sure if I went and asked for this at my fabric store I could find it. (Could I use any cotton if I can't find it? Is there a section I should look for Bemberg? I have a JoAnn Fabrics near me. The staff are very nice but sometimes they are stumped by my questions- there are very few people who sew clothing in my area any more.) Do you recommend anything other than Bemberg?

I am sorry if this has been asked before, but I have never made a suit and I want them to look nice and be comfortable. It will probably take me a year to get them done, but I want to buy the fabric ahead. I am wiling to spend some money on a nice lining, since the outside fabric is nice.

 

[kymeratale]

Enlarging buttonholes on knits

I have a cardigan with boring buttons and some vintage mother of pearl buttons that will be just perfect. Problem is the vintage buttons are a bit bigger than the ones on the sweater. So, I want to enlarge the buttonholes, I'm just not sure what the best way to do it would be. Should I do it by hand, picking out the bar tacks and adding some length to each end or could I try to do it on my machine? It is a cotton knit, quite fine. I'm not sure about using my machine since the buttonholes are already cut and I worry that might make it hard to keep it sitting right to stitch the extension. My hand sewing skills are not great, so if I do it by hand, it will likely not be very tidy at all. I figure the machine stitches would be neater.

Also, do I need to add to each end if it is a little less than 1/2cm (1/4 inch) or can I cheat and just add to one end?

Opinions? Anyone done this by one or the other method?

 

[Adorn]

So this is a seriously late reply, but just in case it's useful to someone else:

This looks similar to the vintage Singer I have, and I hate to say this, but... Most mid-century and later Singers were made with aluminum disks in the machinery. Aluminum warps. So my Singer does the same thing that yours is doing, and short of taking the whole thing apart and rebuilding it from scratch with new bits and pieces there is not much that can be done about it. When the disks are warped the tension can't be adjusted properly.

I also have a vintage White that is twenty-five years older and is solid steel. That one does a beautiful job of the basics, and always will, because it's darn hard to warp steel. Of course, it also weighs about twice as much, so I guess it has its drawbacks too

What's the make/model of the Singer? Sometimes a simple overhaul by a pro will fix the clumping problem, and any singer dealer that's worth their weight should be able to do a simple overhaul on a basic vintage machine. I have a 1952 singer that belonged to my Grandmother-In-Law and when she gave it to me I had the entire thing redone and rewired by a guy in Ann Arbor, MI that specializes in redoing old singers, and it works like a beast. I have a new pfaff I prefer to sew on for every day use because it's an easier machine to use but if I need to punch through leather, make shoes, or sew layers of sailcloth together, the singer is my go-to machine. It's pretty much the same caliber motor or some of the industrials I've sewn on.

 

[Adorn]

I have a cardigan with boring buttons and some vintage mother of pearl buttons that will be just perfect. Problem is the vintage buttons are a bit bigger than the ones on the sweater. So, I want to enlarge the buttonholes, I'm just not sure what the best way to do it would be. Should I do it by hand, picking out the bar tacks and adding some length to each end or could I try to do it on my machine? It is a cotton knit, quite fine. I'm not sure about using my machine since the buttonholes are already cut and I worry that might make it hard to keep it sitting right to stitch the extension. My hand sewing skills are not great, so if I do it by hand, it will likely not be very tidy at all. I figure the machine stitches would be neater.

Also, do I need to add to each end if it is a little less than 1/2cm (1/4 inch) or can I cheat and just add to one end?

Opinions? Anyone done this by one or the other method?

Hand tack the button holes shut. Don't worry about it being perfect, since you'll pull those stitches out later, but try to get them to match up and not overlap. Once the button holes are shut, proceed as normal with your machine buttonholer around the entire buttonhole, just like you would be sewing a new one in that spot. After you are finished, clip like you would any normal, new button hole!

 

[Adorn]

Question About Lining Suits:

I have picked up some various fabrics throughout the years and am planning on making some suits for summer/spring/fall in a couple of months. The "exterior" fabrics I have are linen, cotton, and a light wool blend (I am planning on several suits- not mixing the fabrics).

What do you ladies recommend for lining a suit (fabric material)?

I am looking for something that breathes. Some of the cheaper pieces of modern clothing I have are lined with some type of polyester blend that I don't like. Most of the linings in my fabric store seem to be made out of polyester or rayon. I would like a natural fiber.

When I did a search I saw a posting that indicated that some suits should be lined with Bemberg, but I am not sure if I went and asked for this at my fabric store I could find it. (Could I use any cotton if I can't find it? Is there a section I should look for Bemberg? I have a JoAnn Fabrics near me. The staff are very nice but sometimes they are stumped by my questions- there are very few people who sew clothing in my area any more.) Do you recommend anything other than Bemberg?

I am sorry if this has been asked before, but I have never made a suit and I want them to look nice and be comfortable. It will probably take me a year to get them done, but I want to buy the fabric ahead. I am wiling to spend some money on a nice lining, since the outside fabric is nice.

I have a few 1950's and late 1940's suits that are really, really high end - they are lined with spun silk taffeta. If you hunt around on the internet you can definitely find some. It's a very light, paperweight taffeta that's traditionally used for high end lining. I've lined some modern sewing things with it. It's good for suits, but not quite sturdy enough for winter coats - just a note - it's not good for interfacing, it's simply good for lining. It's hand is kind of funny - it holds it's shape beautifully but it's not going to hold any other fabric's shape for it.

Wow, three sewing advices in a row...I'm on a roll!

 

[Lady Day]

Question About Lining Suits:

I have picked up some various fabrics throughout the years and am planning on making some suits for summer/spring/fall in a couple of months. The "exterior" fabrics I have are linen, cotton, and a light wool blend (I am planning on several suits- not mixing the fabrics).

What do you ladies recommend for lining a suit (fabric material)?

I am looking for something that breathes. Some of the cheaper pieces of modern clothing I have are lined with some type of polyester blend that I don't like. Most of the linings in my fabric store seem to be made out of polyester or rayon. I would like a natural fiber.

When I did a search I saw a posting that indicated that some suits should be lined with Bemberg, but I am not sure if I went and asked for this at my fabric store I could find it. (Could I use any cotton if I can't find it? Is there a section I should look for Bemberg? I have a JoAnn Fabrics near me. The staff are very nice but sometimes they are stumped by my questions- there are very few people who sew clothing in my area any more.) Do you recommend anything other than Bemberg?

I am sorry if this has been asked before, but I have never made a suit and I want them to look nice and be comfortable. It will probably take me a year to get them done, but I want to buy the fabric ahead. I am wiling to spend some money on a nice lining, since the outside fabric is nice.

This is an excerpt from my 1940s Coat making at Home booklet.

I used rayon for the lining when I made my tailored jacket. I have another book that suggests a material with slip, so the garment is easy to put on and take off.
I also used a loose weave muslin for the interfacing. The book suggests that. You can use hair cloth, any mid to high end fabric store will carry it, but it can be expensive and if its your first suit, you might not want to invest that much.

LD