Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[retrogirl1941]

Retrogirl,

Is this an original or a redraft? The redraft might have added a lot of ease, hence the bagginess, because 30s skirts are super fitted.

Also, and this is probably too silly to ask, but did you sew the pleats on the front down?

LOVE that cape

LD

I did sew the pleats down the front! lol Its a copy of an original. But it does fit very well in the waist and hips and goes straight down from there so maybe it was sewn correctly.[huh] I have yet to make the cape, Im still on the blouse(worst instructions ever!)!

Samantha

 

[Lady Day]

Yeah, thats how most 30s skirts fit. Put a pic up of the cape when you make it

LD

 

[retrogirl1941]

Yeah, thats how most 30s skirts fit. Put a pic up of the cape when you make it

LD

Will do! The cape is what attracted me to the pattern.

Samantha

 

[goldwyn girl]

HELP !!!
I've done the most stupid thing. I didn't realize my iron was on high and I put it down on a piece of black satin. The satin has melted and it stuck tight to the iron. I don't know what to clean it with ?? It's a stainless steel base. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

[Lady Day]

GG, check your local sewing store. I believe they make a chemical for just these slip ups, er, occasions.

LD

 

[goldwyn girl]

Thank you Lady Day, I'm heading out this morning. I'm just so mad at my self for being so stupid.

 

[Bubble Cheeks]

I need to start doing this. Seriously. It is time. My husband was sweet enough to buy me a sewing machine last year for my birthday, because I swore up and down I really wanted to take up sewing, and to make my own vintage-patterned outfits. (I'm a modern size 14, so I'm a bigger gal, and it's so hard for me to find real vintage that fits my girth. My other curvaceous friends sew their own, and always look positively wonderful). So he was so sweet, and bought me the one I wanted, and even had the owner of the little sewing shop here in Astoria where he bought it give me a lesson on how to thread the machine myself. I was beyond thrilled.

My birthday was last April. It has almost been a year. I have used it to hem curtains, and make a small pillow. That's all. :eusa_doh:

I feel a bit intimidated by the art of sewing clothing. I must admit. But I'm tired of feeling that way. I want to become a sewing diva! I will follow the advice on this thread, and hopefully that will give me the incentive to truly start.

Thank you!
~Lenore

 

[lyburnum]

Sewing Instructions Problem

I'm having a bit of a problem understanding the instructions for putting in the small pocket in my husbands trousers. I simply cannot for the life of me work out what they're trying to tell me to do.

There are two pieces, F, which are identical which are supposed to be used for the front pocket. These are the instructions:

Can anyone tell me what the heck they're on about?! I can't even understand the illustrations.

 

[Lauren]

Is the outside pocket a welt pocket? If so, the extra overlap is probably just to give ease in the pocket so it lays flat. It's basically having you attach the pocket at the top and bottom of the slit with the seam allowance on the inside of the pants. The pocket facing is to provide extra body only at the top of the pocket. If it continued all the way down it would be too bulky. You're going to turn under your seam allowances and baste them into place on top of the first pocket section, then after that's done, trim away the excess.
After you're all done, you might want to pink the edges of your pocket. The like to wiggle around and fray lol

 

[Lauren]

This might help, not sure. Depends on pocket type
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1698#

 

[goldwyn girl]

Has anyone been able to fix a broken metal zip ? The bottom of the zip has come out of the slider. Any thoughts ? I really don't want to replace it as the dress it is in is hand beaded and the beads cover some of the zip flap and the zip has also been put in by hand.

 

[Rachael]

I'm having a bit of a problem understanding the instructions for putting in the small pocket in my husbands trousers. I simply cannot for the life of me work out what they're trying to tell me to do.

Can anyone tell me what the heck they're on about?! I can't even understand the illustrations.

This looks like a basic watch pocket, which isn't as complicated as the directions want it to be. First off, if your husband won't carry a watch or use this pocket for change, leave it off.

If it is a pocket he would use, here's how I put them in (sorry in advance for the lack of pictures)

First, lay one pocket bag piece on the outside of the trouser front, right sides together (this is now the pocket facing). Stitch the upper edge between the dots, or to the seam allowances, whichever the pattern calls for.
Snip the seam allowance to the end of your stitching line and turn the pocket bag piece to the inside. This will create a nice seamed edge for the outside of the pocket. Be sure to press the unstitched raw edge on either side of the pocket up.

Second, on the inside, lay the other pocket bag piece over the first (this is now the pocket) right sides together. Stitch together around the curved edges, making the actual pocket. There is no need to turn this because it's on the inside of the trousers. Pink, zigzag, or serge the edges as you normally do. Pin or baste the top edges together.

You now have a watch pocket. When you sew on the waistband, it will catch Pocket (the second piece) and leave the Pocket Facing free. I am always sure to backstitch at the corners of the pocket to re-enforce the seam, or sometimes do a hand tailor tack just to be sure.

I can dig up my directions for this and scan them for you if this doesn't help.

 

[lyburnum]

Thank you, your comment is exactly what I did. My husband had a pair of 80s Brooks Brothers trousers he got from a thrift store for like $6, which we were going to send to the charity shop, until I realised if I tore them apart I could work out how on earth they put the pocket together. Much less complicated than the vintage pattern suggests!

 

[Miss 1929]

Has anyone been able to fix a broken metal zip ? The bottom of the zip has come out of the slider. Any thoughts ? I really don't want to replace it as the dress it is in is hand beaded and the beads cover some of the zip flap and the zip has also been put in by hand.

I think you need strong needle nosed piers, and you pry apart the part that slides up and down, put the teeth back where they go and then press it back together. I have never had much luck with it, but ny husband is a wizard at it!

Also, ask at your favorite dry cleaners, they may know how.

 

[goldwyn girl]

Thank you Miss 1929, I will get hubby on to it. And if all else fails I'll try the dry cleaner.

 

[dakotanorth]

Help!! Elastic waistband troubles!

Hello everyone, long time no post!
I recently decided to fix a handful of gabardine jacket I've had stored for *cough cough* some time now. I figured if I am going to repair as much as possible, I should redo the shirred waist!
I tried one last night- bought the big 2" wide elastic banding, sewed one end to one side, the other to the other. Mind you this is INSIDE the jacket, between two layers of material.
After I finished running the horizontal stitches, something very bizarre happened- the jacket bloused at the bottom! It looks like a peplum jacket! It is a "ricky" jacket though so this is BAD.
Any specific pointers on sewing elastic? Typically I do the short pieces on the sides, but now I'm talking about one big piece all the way across the back.

 

[Snookie]

Hello everyone, long time no post!
I recently decided to fix a handful of gabardine jacket I've had stored for *cough cough* some time now. I figured if I am going to repair as much as possible, I should redo the shirred waist!
I tried one last night- bought the big 2" wide elastic banding, sewed one end to one side, the other to the other. Mind you this is INSIDE the jacket, between two layers of material.
After I finished running the horizontal stitches, something very bizarre happened- the jacket bloused at the bottom! It looks like a peplum jacket! It is a "ricky" jacket though so this is BAD.
Any specific pointers on sewing elastic? Typically I do the short pieces on the sides, but now I'm talking about one big piece all the way across the back.

Can you post a picture? I'm not understanding your situation exactly...

Is this the kind of jacket you're working with?

 

[dakotanorth]

Elastic in a "Ricky" jacket

Can you post a picture? I'm not understanding your situation exactly...

Is this the kind of jacket you're working with?

Hey Snookie!
Yes that's the type- good example you have, because it wraps all the way across the back.
When I did mine, the bottom flared out more than the top. I think I might have had more tension on the top or bottom???
(Sorry I don't have pics- I already tore out the stitching.)
Also, what's the ratio of elastic you should use? 2/3rds the width of the area? 1/2?

 

[Snookie]

Aha! I understand now. Yes, I think the tension must have been the culprit. Sounds like the bottom should be the same tension or even a little tighter than the top.

The ratio of elastic will vary from jacket to jacket - especially depending on how much fullness in the jacket you need to gather in & the strength of the elastic. I'd just wrap the elastic around you, stretching it just slightly, to figure out how much to use. Then just distribute the fabric gathers evenly on it. You're stretching as you sew, right, so that the waistband is smooth when fully extended?

 

[dakotanorth]

Elastic in a "Ricky" jacket

Thanks for the reply Snookie!
Yeah, what I usually do is tack one side, tack the other, then stretch the waistband until it's flat and smooth. Then I run the machine horizontally from one side seam to the other.
I think you're right- I think I had too much tension in the top and not enough in the bottom, plus, I used a piece of elastic that was 1/2 the width of the waist. I think that's too much stretch! I'll have to try it again and go easy on the elastic.
Thanks!