Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[maybelaughter]

From what I understand, a small bust adjustment is done exactly the same as a full bust adjustment, but taking away fabric instead of adding it. Here is a step-by-step guide, with pictures, to doing it. http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-cup-does-not-runneth-over.html

thank you so much! that's just what i needed - pictures to show me how to do it.

 

[MarieAnne]

Circle skirt length

I am making a circle and the length of the circle skirt on the pattern envelope is 29.5". This feels a bit long for me and I was wondering what everyone's preferred circle skirt length was. I was thinking of going for 24-26".

 

[kamikat]

The current preferred lengths of skirt are 3in above the knee, 3in below the knee and 3in above the ankle. Is your circle skirt pattern a 50's pattern? The skirts were typically ballerina length, just below mid-calf. It really depends on whether you want an authentic look or more of a vintage-inspired look. I tend like mid-calf for dresses and 3in below knee for skirts. For some reason, longer skirts look alot more frumpy on me than longer dresses.

 

[o0olibelulao0o]

Making your own crinoline??

Ok, so I've decided what I'm going to wear to my 50's rock n' roll party... I'm going to wear a light yellow full circle skirt (that will be home made and sans poodle applique) and a white top (not sure which one but I have loads of those) HOWEVER, I'm on a really tight budget, so instead of buying a crinoline, I'm going to ATTEMPT to make one... (in light blue none-the-less) I have looked up LOAD of tutorials online but all they have done is scare/confuse me to death...

Anyone have a super easy tutorial/pattern? And any tips/tricks would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[MarieAnne]

Ok, so I've decided what I'm going to wear to my 50's rock n' roll party... I'm going to wear a light yellow full circle skirt (that will be home made and sans poodle applique) and a white top (not sure which one but I have loads of those) HOWEVER, I'm on a really tight budget, so instead of buying a crinoline, I'm going to ATTEMPT to make one... (in light blue none-the-less) I have looked up LOAD of tutorials online but all they have done is scare/confuse me to death...

Anyone have a super easy tutorial/pattern? And any tips/tricks would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance!

This has to be the best petticoat tutorial I have ever found. http://sugardale.blogspot.com/2008/08/how-to-make-petticoat.html

 

[CherryRed]

HELP!!!!

I am working on Advance 7837, vintage blouse pattern. I measure a 42" bust (maybe 41 1/2) The pattern is size 42" bust. It is coming out too wide and too big in the bust. What am I doing wrong? (This is my cheap test fabric since this is my first time using a vintage ( not repro)pattern to sew for myself.)
Here are pics on me and on my dress form. HELP!!!!

You can see how big it is best in the photo's showing the arm hole.

 

[MissAmelina]

From where I sit, it looks really good, so be kind to yourself!

I am working on a blouse very similar to this as we speak....bear in mind that when you attach the sleeves, you will tighten it at least 1/2 inch on each side in the seam allowances.
Don't know if that helps, but it might make a little difference. You can always take in the side seams a bit too...or extend the darts up in the front too, position the buttons to tighten it up a smidge.....Lots of options...just play around with it using basting stitches.

Someone else will probably have more specific advice....I am still learning alot about these kinds of adjustments, but I would baste the sleeves on and figure out where the buttons go first.

 

[CherryRed]

Thank you MissAmelina for your tips. It just seeps so baggy in the bust to me for a fitted 50's blouse. The collar is the next step. I guess I will continue with that for now. I hadn't thought of the sleeves taking some in. I will give it a try.
Here is the pattern picture:

 

[Lady Day]

To me, it seems like the sleeve holes were larger than your liking.

Id suggest altering the pattern for the next go 'round, but, to save this one, you can add pieces beneath the under arm.

Just lay out the pattern piece and cut a wedge of fabric to fit.
Taking in the excess from the sleeve might be more difficult, as you will now have a few inches more to work with. Simply taking in more at the seam isnt going to do it, Id cut down the curve of the sleeve (slightly, not by too much), especially where it shapes into the new piece you've added.

Know it sounds like gibberish, but maybe another lady can explain it in cleaner terms.

Good luck!

LD

 

[CherryRed]

I appreciate your input Lady Day (master seamstress )
The armhole is actually fine. It even says on the pattern that is is lower. I am am having more of an issue with the excess fabric shown here.

I am really lost inside this thing. A friend of mine that sews said my bust measurement should be taken under my bust. But my sewing books say at the fullest part. That is what I was going by, but yet this pattern at 42 is way too big in the bust and width in general. Did I measure wrong? Or is this pattern just really big?

 

[Lady Day]

OOpsie me I thought you were having issue with the arm holes.

Make the darts on the bust and at the hem longer and deeper. That should help your bust fitting issue.

LD

 

[kamikat]

Cherry Red, it looks like you're dealing with 2 issues here. The first is wearing ease. In 50's patterns, I've noticed that there is generally about 3-4in of wearing ease in the bust and zero-1in of wearing ease in the waist. The second is cup size or the difference between bust and waist. 50's patterns are drafted with a larger difference between bust and waist than 40's or modern patterns. For someone like me, who has to do a full bust adjustment in modern or 40's patterns, it means I don't have to do a FBA in 50's patterns. If you are smaller in the bust, probably closer to a C or less, you either need to do a small bust adjustment or in the future, look for patterns to fit a size 40. I have a 45 bust and size 42 patterns usually fit me perfectly right out of the envelope.

 

[kerry]

Im just about to order a couple of the Vintage vogue patterns. I am going to order the 18-20-22 size as i am a 18-20 according to their measurments. I am losing weight though. Will it be easy to make adjustments to the patterns in the future or will I have to buy another set? I cant ever see myself being below a sixteen as I need a bit of fat to iron out the wrinkles

 

[Pinky Boo]

I am really lost inside this thing. A friend of mine that sews said my bust measurement should be taken under my bust. But my sewing books say at the fullest part. That is what I was going by, but yet this pattern at 42 is way too big in the bust and width in general. Did I measure wrong? Or is this pattern just really big?

[/QUOTE]

The bust measurement should be taken as the fullest part of the bust when dressmaking (maybe your friend is confusing this with measuring for a bra?), and if you ae unhappy with the excess fabric then I would simply dart it. Just remember though, that the bras of the 50's were padded "bullet" types that projected you a lot further forward than modern bras. I would suggest when fitting your garment you wear a bra that you are going to wear with it, as different styles of bra put your bustline in a slightly different place. Personally I thik it looks fab. Also, have you done my usual trick of not using all your seam allowance up? Over a whole garment it can really throw the sizing out!

If anyone is interested, my friend and I have a blog about making vintage lingerie - each month we challenge ourselves (and anyone who cares to join us) to make an item of vintage inspired lingerie - pop over and see us at http://frillybits.co.uk

Be sure to post pictures when you're done!

 

[kamikat]

The bust measurement should be taken as the fullest part of the bust when dressmaking (maybe your friend is confusing this with measuring for a bra?), !

This is partially incorrect. Modern patterns are drafted for a B/C cup. If you wear a B or C cup, you measure at the fullest part of the bust. If you are larger than a C cup, then you need to measure at the high bust, which is right under the armpits. This ensures that your pattern will fit your shoulders and neckline, which is the hardest area to fit. Then you would do a full bust adjustment, which adds fabric only to the bust area, where you need it.

 

[CherryRed]

Cherry Red, it looks like you're dealing with 2 issues here. The first is wearing ease. In 50's patterns, I've noticed that there is generally about 3-4in of wearing ease in the bust and zero-1in of wearing ease in the waist. The second is cup size or the difference between bust and waist. 50's patterns are drafted with a larger difference between bust and waist than 40's or modern patterns. For someone like me, who has to do a full bust adjustment in modern or 40's patterns, it means I don't have to do a FBA in 50's patterns. If you are smaller in the bust, probably closer to a C or less, you either need to do a small bust adjustment or in the future, look for patterns to fit a size 40. I have a 45 bust and size 42 patterns usually fit me perfectly right out of the envelope.

Thank you for this info on the differences in decades. The waist seems to be ok. Most of my patterns are 40's so I am guessing by what you are saying that they will fit me better, having a closer ratio to bust, waist. I am about a C I think. I have been wearing D, but sometimes they gap.
I ordered some pattern paper so I can work with it more.
Thank you all for all your tips!

 

[MissAmelina]

I am making a knee length six gored lightweight denim skirt from a 1945 pattern....I know they probably did not make their skirts out of denim back then, but I need something versatile and hardy to wear on holiday in a few weeks.

What kind of seam should I use give it more vintage appeal? I usually use flat-felled on denim, but I don't know if that would look right. It might throw off the hang of the skirt.

Any suggestions? I have a few manuals, so I can always look up the name of a seam if I am not familiar.

I am not a huge stickler when it comes to these things...I just want it to look polished and thought you loverly ladies might have some advice!

EDIT: I went ahead and did regular seams, and it looks nice and polished.

 

[retrogirl1941]

I am making this pattern

and I noticed when I tried the skirt on that it was very loose. Looking at the picture on the envelope it looks as if it should be very fitted. Or is it that skirts from this period are suppossed to fall straight down from the hips?

Samantha

 

[Lady Day]

Retrogirl,

Is this an original or a redraft? The redraft might have added a lot of ease, hence the bagginess, because 30s skirts are super fitted.

Also, and this is probably too silly to ask, but did you sew the pleats on the front down?

LOVE that cape

LD

 

[kamikat]

and I noticed when I tried the skirt on that it was very loose. Looking at the picture on the envelope it looks as if it should be very fitted. Or is it that skirts from this period are suppossed to fall straight down from the hips?

Samantha

I've only made a couple dresses and skirts from the 30's, but I've found them to be fitted at the waist to the hip, then straight down.