Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Mrs. Merl]

Well, that at least gets me brainstorming. Oddly enough I have never run into or owned any gabardine until now. Of course, most of my sewing has been far earlier than these decades and well gabardine not so very period in that case!

 

[dakotanorth]

Hey everyone. Just got a whole bunch of fabric from my mother who is remodeling and getting rid of a lot of stuff. Just a quick question, 'cause I want to make something to put on the thread. What would you all make out of gabardine? It is a rather small amount and deep green. Any ideas?

What kind of gabardine? Rayon, wool, poly blend?
Not just the weave but the WEIGHT of the material will tell you what it would be good for.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Well, it is obviously synthetic and I am thinking a poly blend of some sort. It is really quite heavy. I was thinking jacket, but I look dreadful in green. So, as Lady Day mentioned accessories may be my best way to go.

 

[CherryRed]

Are the measurements on the pattern peices for this correct? It seams like it has an awful lot of ease and I can't image that I would make this in a size 10 when my actual measurements are more like a 14/16. Have any of you ladies made this pattern?

I just started cutting the pattern of this out yesterday. I haven't looked at the measurement on the pattern yet. I have used Butterick Retro before in other patterns and found the envelope measurements true. I will check back when I look at the pattern again.

 

[CherryRed]

OK, here it what I found. The finished measurements seem way too big for me also. Especially considering this is a fitted style dress. I pinned the darts in the bodice and pinned front to back in my usual size (20/bust 42) then I put it on my dress form. It seemed OK,then I took it apart and repinned it using size 16 (2 sizes smaller like you mentioned your fit was also)
The center seams, side seams and bust points still lined up fine. Since I couldn't come to a conclusion based on just pinning the patten pieces, I am making a musin of the bodice in the smaller size and see how it fits. I am working on that now and will let you know how that fit is. Making the smaller size should still give me 1/2" ease according to the patterns measurements.

 

[miss_smith]

Help!
I've never made a dress with bias tape around the edging (really, they're so simple, so I don't know how this is possible) and I just can't get it to go around these really tight curves. It is what the pattern calls for, so theoretically, there must be a solution to this problem.
Pattern: http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/vintagepatterns/images/9/93/M1948.jpg

Is the curve just to hard for it? I stretched the outer edge as best I could.

 

[Lady Day]

Cut notches in the excess of the bias tape. That helps with curves and tight angles.

LD

 

[miss_smith]

Cut notches in the excess of the bias tape. That helps with curves and tight angles.

LD

But the bias tape is on the outside of the dress...if I cut notches in it it will show [huh] If you meant the fabric itself, I already tried that.

 

[Lady Day]

I meant notch the bias tape.

Is the part with the safety pin the correct side of the fabric, and the tape is trimming that? If so, you need to reverse the tape so the tube part touches the correct side of your plaid fabric. Then once its sewn, you may have to ditch stitch (stitching the crease between the bias tape and the plaid fabric) to keep the tape from flipping wrong side up.

LD

 

[miss_smith]

I meant notch the bias tape.

Is the part with the safety pin the correct side of the fabric, and the tape is trimming that? If so, you need to reverse the tape so the tube part touches the correct side of your plaid fabric. Then once its sewn, you may have to ditch stitch (stitching the crease between the bias tape and the plaid fabric) to keep the tape from flipping wrong side up.

LD

I think I understand what you mean. I hope. Both sides are the right side, because it is a tab that will eventually have a buttonhole in it, but of each side, it is the most right side (I hope that makes sense).

 

[Rachael]

I wonder if using narrower bias tape would help? Bias stretches around corners well, and it's odd that it isn't lying flat. You may also want to pin and steam before stitching; steam helps bias to stretch. (be sure you aren't using plastic head pins; they'll melt)

I generally cut my own bias and sew it in a two-step process: first I stitch the bias right sides together to the fabric, and press it over the raw edge, binding it. Then I either machine or handstitch the bias to the underside. If you wanted to try that, just press open your bias tape, using the fold line nearest the edge as your stitching guide.

 

[miss_smith]

I wonder if using narrower bias tape would help? Bias stretches around corners well, and it's odd that it isn't lying flat. You may also want to pin and steam before stitching; steam helps bias to stretch. (be sure you aren't using plastic head pins; they'll melt)

I generally cut my own bias and sew it in a two-step process: first I stitch the bias right sides together to the fabric, and press it over the raw edge, binding it. Then I either machine or handstitch the bias to the underside. If you wanted to try that, just press open your bias tape, using the fold line nearest the edge as your stitching guide.

Yeah, I was thinking narrower might work better, but I'm trying to use what I've already got. Maybe I'll try steaming it.

I actually made my own bias tape for the first time last week!

 

[Inky]

Help!
I've never made a dress with bias tape around the edging (really, they're so simple, so I don't know how this is possible) and I just can't get it to go around these really tight curves. It is what the pattern calls for, so theoretically, there must be a solution to this problem.
Pattern: http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/vintagepatterns/images/9/93/M1948.jpg

Is the curve just to hard for it? I stretched the outer edge as best I could.

Are you sewing it on to the fabric both sides at one time? It works better for me if I press it into the curve (sometimes clipping if needed for a steep curve) then you sew it on the crease, fold it over, press again then top stitch it down.

This silly little video is much better than I am at explaining it even though she shows it on a straight edge (and she doesn't use pins - i would!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fEv3VXPUEs

 

[Lady Day]

Is this piping, or bias tape?
Is the tape cut on the bias (a 45 Degree angle)? If not, that my be your bunching problem.

Good luck.

LD

 

[miss_smith]

Is this piping, or bias tape?
Is the tape cut on the bias (a 45 Degree angle)? If not, that my be your bunching problem.

Good luck.

LD

It is indeed bias tape, I don't know if it is an exact 45 deg. as it is store bought. I would assume that it is.

Inky, thanks for the video! That make way more sense than anything I was doing, and I was really hoping someone would know of a video (I'm for sure a visual learner).

 

[Lady Day]

Oh, okay, now I see what you are trying to do.

It looked like piping to me, and I got my words confused. Lesson learned, never listen to me

LD

 

[Lauren]

I love piping. It takes a while to get the hang of it, but it's great stuff. If it's out of the package, or if you make your own, it should be on the bias. To go around curves make sure the cord on the inside has plenty of "ease. Don't pull the cord tight. I also sew it on one thickness of fabric, then pin and sew the facing on. It really helps get it to lay correctly. Best advice I can give is go slow and pin it A LOT going crosswise, not in the direction of the seam. If you You are also pinning it on backwards of how you will sew it, so I think you'll find it lays better once you get going. After you get it on there you can trim down the bias excess to 1.4" and it will lay nice. Good luck!

 

[Neany73]

I've found that pre-curving bias tape helps with really tight corners. I use my nails to start stretching it around the curve (folding it the way it will be on the fabric) then get my steam iron out and use the steam to help it further. If that fails I use a narrower tape!

 

[miss_smith]

Oh, okay, now I see what you are trying to do.

It looked like piping to me, and I got my words confused. Lesson learned, never listen to me

LD

Well, I intend to do one with piping at some point, so I'll heed your advice then

 

[cailinbeag]

Some bias tape tricks I've found helpful that I don't think have been mentioned yet...

- not all store bought bias tapes are created equal. I find Wright's quite difficult to work with. It's like the bias tape equivalent of tent canvas. I tend to seek out tape that is lighter weight and responds well to steam, or I make my own.

- run a loose stitch on the inside lip of the bias tape, and use to ease the excess as you steam it.

- worst case scenario, slip stitch the edges by hand to assure that it doesn't buckle. Then you can steam it and machine stitch it.

I made pot holders for xmas last year, and they were edged with bias tape. I feel your pain LOL and really hope you find a solution that works for you!!!