Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[kymeratale]

kymeratale, I don't know too much about sewing but I love that first Vogue print! So summery and lovely.

I had a question too though - how did you all learn to read patterns? I don't know how and google didn't seem to find me any clear instructions...!

I got a copy of the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It covers it pretty well. In my so far limited experience, the Vogue pattern I have used was a little easier than the Simplicity because it had a glossary that explained a bit better what all the terms were and what all the symbols mean. The thing I found the most useful was getting a pattern and going over it with the instructions, keeping the Reader's Digest handy. You can read about it till you are blue in the face, but I found looking at an actual pattern made it easier to figure out what was going on.

 

[palespider]

fabric.com just posted that they have stretch denim at 50% off. does anyone have experience as to how well the fabric works up for pants or overalls. I know with my own experience with diaper butt i wonder if that is something i should be concerned about with fabric.com denim?

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Greetings & Salutations, Ladies!!!

I am goingto be making myself a Indiana Jones shirt out of linen over the next few weeks & I was wondering if you girls have any tips for preshrinking the fabric before I actually cut & sew the pieces together?

Thanx!!!
Charlie

 

[HepKitty]

pattern size, measuring, and mod help please

I have big issues with pattern sizes... reading by what they say, a 33" (where do they measure this? I always thought above the twins where they blend into the chest) should use the pattern for a 34 which in most patterns is a size 14 but I've made 12s and 10s and some of those even are too big! doesn't help that I'm short, and I know to bring up the waistline anywhere from 1 to 3 inches hey that's great, but I never know if I'll actually need a 14 a 12 a 10 or even an 8. I bought a book on pattern modification and even that SWEARS I should wear a 14. well I'm working on a vintage pattern size 14 dress right now and the only mod I did was bring up the waistline and omg it's HUGE in the ribcage. I've brought in the sides quite a bit so far and have the zipper in but I still need to to the facing and neck straps and I'm a little afraid because stuff is off now. does anyone else have this problem? how does anyone really know what size they wear if the chart is wrong?

thank you ladies, for help here and all the other delightful things you post

 

[SayCici]

I think if you know you always have an issue with the size chart being "wrong", you should probably try making a muslin first so that if you have any problems, you're using cheap fabric instead of the nice fabric you want for your garment. Try measuring the pattern's design ease as well.

Here is a guide on taking your own measurements. The bust is regularly measured, um, around the fullest part of the bust, but fuller-chested ladies I believe also measure their upper/high bust, but this doesn't sound like something you need to be concerned about (you can see at the guide they measure the woman's high bust and it's the same as her normal bust measurement, so no worries there, she wouldn't require a FBA).

I should add that a modern and vintage size 14 are very different.

 

[kymeratale]

Greetings & Salutations, Ladies!!!

I am goingto be making myself a Indiana Jones shirt out of linen over the next few weeks & I was wondering if you girls have any tips for preshrinking the fabric before I actually cut & sew the pieces together?

Thanx!!!
Charlie

Not to be glib or anything , but I am going to be glib. Put it in the washing machine, then put it in the dryer.

But seriously, if you are planning to always line dry it every single time, then just wash it and hang to dry. If you think you might ever put it in the dryer, then wash and dry it in the machines. If you will really seriously only ever dry clean it, then have the fabric dry cleaned before you cut. Basically, treat it pre-cut exactly the same as you would for the finished garment.

Now, I know some people only ever dry clean linen and some people only ever line dry it, but I have not had any problems with machine washing and drying (other than wear on the fabric depending on the type of machine you have).

Have you got a good hat to go with the shirt?

 

[Marla]

The measurements listed on the envelope are the body measurements, not the finished measurements of the garment. Styles dictate the amount of design ease garments have, so that's why you see dresses in one decade fitting loosely while in the next one they may have a snug fit. So even if you buy the correct size pattern, the finished dress may not fit perfectly.

Modern patterns especially are notorious for adding a lot of design ease. The best thing to do is to make a muslin toile (test garment) so that you can adjust the fit to your preference before making the final version of your garment.

 

[HepKitty]

The measurements listed on the envelope are the body measurements, not the finished measurements of the garment. Styles dictate the amount of design ease garments have, so that's why you see dresses in one decade fitting loosely while in the next one they may have a snug fit. So even if you buy the correct size pattern, the finished dress may not fit perfectly.

Modern patterns especially are notorious for adding a lot of design ease. The best thing to do is to make a muslin toile (test garment) so that you can adjust the fit to your preference before making the final version of your garment.

thanks everyone for the help, Marla where in ID are you?

 

[crwritt]

Thanks crwritt. Why would the second pattern be better for a one-way design? Because it is one piece from top to bottom?

Sorry I just saw this. the reason I think the second pattern would be better is because the skirt is pieced, the fabric designs would stay upright, with a full circle, cut in two semicircles, the design would be sideways at the side seams.
Still, that pattern will take lots more yardage, and if you don't mind the sideways thing, use the first one.

 

[crwritt]

I have to ask: Is sewing addictive?[/QUOTE]

in a word, YES

 

[Marla]

thanks everyone for the help, Marla where in ID are you?

HepKitty, I'm in Southern Idaho. There are a few Idahoans floating about here on the lounge!

 

[Lady Day]

Has anyone ever replaced the elastic around the bottom band of their bras?

The elastic in two of my old bras is starting to go bad, and I was curious if any of you ladies have replaced yours. I found some plush elastic online, and that might do the trick.

Thoughts?

LD

 

[SheBear74]

Thanks crwritt. Why would the second pattern be better for a one-way design? Because it is one piece from top to bottom?

What about doing the first pattern but instead of a circle skirt you do a poof (don't know that that is what its called, but the skirt where it's gathered) on the bottom?

Love that print btw!!!

 

[crwritt]

Bust pads for a "patriotic" bustline

I've been having fun with the vintage patterns, this is my second go at this pattern.

I thought I'd show how I added bust pads to get that pointy (my Mom calls "patriotic") vintage bustline.
Based on the bodice dart, I made a pattern for a cone shaped pad
then layered lining fabric with quilt batting, serged the edges and stitched the seam
then hand stitched the pads in place

here you can see the bodice with and without the bust pads.

 

[SheBear74]

I've been having fun with the vintage patterns, this is my second go at this pattern.

I thought I'd show how I added bust pads to get that pointy (my Mom calls "patriotic") vintage bustline.
Based on the bodice dart, I made a pattern for a cone shaped pad
then layered lining fabric with quilt batting, serged the edges and stitched the seam
then hand stitched the pads in place

here you can see the bodice with and without the bust pads.

That's a big difference! Great tip too, I love that your Mom calls it patriotic!

 

[crwritt]

I'd suggest this for sundresses or evening wear, with dresses you most likely
would be happier wearing without a bra. It helps to have a lining to sew the pads to, but with something unlined, it may be possible to tack them to the dart
or seam.

 

[Lauren]

Oh my gosh, what a fabulous idea! Thank you so much for sharing that! I hate wearing bras with some of these strapless or halter tops so that will be an awesome alternative

 

[Nick D]

If you ladies don't mind, I have a question. I've been trying to figure out how to make lined patch pockets with no visible top stitching. I'll be making this jacket this summer, http://www.evadress.com/4972.html, in time for this fall. The first will be a tweed that I will top stitch the pockets (I think it'll be appropriate for the style and weight of the fabric), but I may do another in wool flannel or gabardine which I think would look good without the top stitching. Unfortunately, I just can't figure out how to do it, and I can't find anything on how to do it. All I've found for patch pockets is to do up the pockets, pin it flat to the garment, and top stitch. Any help or suggestions on where to look?

 

[Lauren]

If you do it with no topstitching you're going to have to line the jacket more than likely. If you can get a hold of the Classic Tailoring Techniques book they should have step by step instructions. I have the womens one and it goes into it. Check with your library if you don't want to buy the book as they might have a copy.

 

[crwritt]

If you ladies don't mind, I have a question. I've been trying to figure out how to make lined patch pockets with no visible top stitching. I'll be making this jacket this summer, http://www.evadress.com/4972.html, in time for this fall. The first will be a tweed that I will top stitch the pockets (I think it'll be appropriate for the style and weight of the fabric), but I may do another in wool flannel or gabardine which I think would look good without the top stitching. Unfortunately, I just can't figure out how to do it, and I can't find anything on how to do it. All I've found for patch pockets is to do up the pockets, pin it flat to the garment, and top stitch. Any help or suggestions on where to look?

I would make up the lined patch pockets, press them well, then invisibly hand stitch them to the jacket. There is a way to machine stitch the pockets on invisibly. You would make them up, pocket and lining, seam the top edge of the pocket to the lining, turn and press. Don't stitch around the sides and bottom. turn under your seam allowance to the back and press. Now by hand, baste the pockets to the jacket, just worming the needle in and out of the pressed edge, and into the jacket fabric.Now, open the pocket and machine stitch inside the pocket along your basted stitches. Tricky, but entirely possible.