Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[Ms Sew-n-Sew]

The dress I'm making at minute (still on Colette Ceylon) has corresponding rows of gathers below the neckline and a few inches above the waistline. It does make the back of the dress a bit poofy, but I actually really like the effect - it is quite soft, balances out the puffed sleeves and looks flattering. If you were after something a bit more structured, perhaps a few knife pleats above the belt and below the collar might work? They might leave a bit too much volume on the back though. GodessMama's idea of a long box pleat from the collar sounds like a good solution.

 

[Lady Day]

Oh sure, if I make the dress again, I can totally see doing that, or even using an entirely different back for the dress.

But I have these already made, and Im wondering if ya'll think its too square, and if so, without taking it apart, at the back waist line, would shirring look okay? The top of the back is fine. Ive got no beef with that part.

I guess I just dont know if Ive settled on the boxy look of the dress. I do love the pattern though

LD

 

[SheBear74]

LD, I just don't see anything wrong with them.

 

[Lauren]

I agree with SheBear... I think it looks fine as is. Looks very period

 

[Lottie]

Could anyone maybe point me to a good pattern grading tutorial? I had bookmarked one, but it seems that the page is not available anymore

 

[crwritt]

Could anyone maybe point me to a good pattern grading tutorial? I had bookmarked one, but it seems that the page is not available anymore

Here's the Threads Magazine one
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4424/quick-reference-for-cut-and-spread-pattern-grading

 

[Lottie]

Yay, thanks!

 

[Lady Day]

Thanks so much for all the input, ladies

LD

 

[GoddessMama]

I was actually thinking of upside down box pleats from the waist.

 

[SheBear74]

I guess it just depends on how fast you want it or how tailored... Threads tutorial looks good.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4971/a-shortcut-to-great-linings
Pretty much the fastest way I've found is to assemble all but the sideseams, then do those last. The key, I've found, to linings keeping their place is to stitch all the seam allowance at the neck and underarm towards the lining piece- using a 1/8" topstitch... like they say. Makes that edge crisper somehow so it doesn't keep peeking out, or at least it helps.
Gosh, I'm such a visual learner it's hard for me to explain online, too.
Ah ha! This is what I meant... look at the slideshow on this:
http://danvillegirl.blogspot.com/2007/12/sleeveless-dress-with-lining.html

Thanks so much for that slide show link. I tried that today and it worked out great!

 

[palespider]

anyone have any leads on cute glove patterns to keep an eye out for? I keep seeing teh vouge ones on ebay but they seem very 90's to me but perhaps its just the photos and my imagination isnt strong enough.

 

[kamikat]

I've been searching high and low for a "step-in" pattern. Do y'all think that if I eliminate the elastic on this teddy, it would give me a "step-in"?

Center right one piece undergarment

 

[crwritt]

I've been searching high and low for a "step-in" pattern. Do y'all think that if I eliminate the elastic on this teddy, it would give me a "step-in"?

Center right one piece undergarment

Yes, but lengthen the legs tof course the vintage version is so much cuter. I guess I have to ask how you use the bathroom while wearing these? Are there snaps?

 

[Lady Day]

anyone have any leads on cute glove patterns to keep an eye out for? I keep seeing the vogue ones on ebay but they seem very 90's to me but perhaps its just the photos and my imagination isnt strong enough.

Who wears gloves anymore
In all truth, Id think just about any glove pattern would work for that reason. Who wears gloves anymore? Just model it off of pictures from vintage catalogs. All the glove patterns Ive seen are super small, and I would think it would be a pain to grade a glove pattern.

LD

 

[Tourbillion]

I have a vintage step in pattern, there are hooks on the side only. It isn't the most convenient undergarment ever, but it is possible to use the necessary in it.

You could use the teddy pattern that you have. If you make the legs longer it might be difficult to snap though. You could put hooks on one side like mine, just make sure it is loose enough or you might have trouble. I might suggest adding length in the torso as the crotch is pretty low on my vintage pattern.

Also, some vintage step ins were just long camisoles with a strip of fabric at the bottom with or without snaps/hooks. It seems that underwear was "breezier" back then.

 

[crwritt]

Who wears gloves anymore
In all truth, Id think just about any glove pattern would work for that reason. Who wears gloves anymore? Just model it off of pictures from vintage catalogs. All the glove patterns Ive seen are super small, and I would think it would be a pain to grade a glove pattern.

LD

I agree, the fashionable glove patterns I have seen are teeny, and don't come in graded sizes, especially the Vogue ones. I have made numerous pairs of gloves, since I make mascots. I have graded glove patterns using a photocopier.I have also taken gloves apart at the seams to make a pattern from them. If you want a glove pattern that is sized, look at Green Pepper patterns.http://www.thegreenpepper.com/downloads/508web.pdf
Sewing a pair of gloves is like making two pairs of five legged pants.
I think if you come up with a glove pattern that fits you, then the styling and decoration can be easily inspired by vintage examples and illustrations.

 

[kamikat]

Also, some vintage step ins were just long camisoles with a strip of fabric at the bottom with or without snaps/hooks. It seems that underwear was "breezier" back then.

That's a great idea! I have a couple vintage slip patterns that could easily be shortened to long cami length.

 

[Geesie]

What is the easier pattern alteration - taking in up top or letting out down below?
I want to start making dresses for my wife, but she'd be around a 10 bust/waist and 14 hip. Should I get the 14 and take in the bust and waist or the 10 and let out the hip on the patterns?

 

[Marla]

What is the easier pattern alteration - taking in up top or letting out down below?
I want to start making dresses for my wife, but she'd be around a 10 bust/waist and 14 hip. Should I get the 14 and take in the bust and waist or the 10 and let out the hip on the patterns?

For the most part, fitting the bust is very difficult, so you'll save yourself a lot of fitting issues by getting the pattern size that fits her bust and then letting out the hips.

 

[kamikat]

It's not so much fitting the bust that is hard, but fitting the shoulders and neck. If the pattern is sized to fit the whole upper chest (from the under arm up), you can easily take away and add in the other specific areas. There is also the possiblity that she might need more or less in those areas depending on the dress style. A 50's style pleated full skirt isn't fitted through the hip and might fit as is, where as a bias cut 30s evening gown might need more than the size 14. Also be aware that ladies' sizes have changed over the years. Your wife MIGHT be a 10 in vintage sizing, but I doubt it. I have sewn for a girlfriend who was a modern RTW size 2 and she fit vintage size 12 pattern perfectly.