Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[NancyLouise]

Ahhhh. Okay. I just didn't get what you were saying the first time. Thanks for clarifying!

 

[Lottie]

Hello,
I've got a question about the fit of patterns rather than sewing itself (I hope this wasn't asked before :S):
In every vintage or repro vintage pattern I've made so far I had the problem that the back of the dress had a lot more "space" than necessary (or flattering), to my mind. I always had to take it in several centimeters (> 5/8 "). The waistline is almost fine, mostly, it is just a huge bulge mid-back.
I'm wearing a vintage size 18 and am 5 ft 10 (175 cm) tall. Is this a common issue or are vintage patterns supposed to fit that way or am I doing something wrong?
I'm not exactly new to sewing but a lot of what I know is learning-by-doing-knowledge...

 

[Lady Day]

You might just have a thin back. I know my default alterations are the shoulders and back of the neck. I always have to raise the angle of shoulders and cut the back of the neck.

This, from my absolute favorite sewing book address your issue in the opposite. #s 3 and 4.

LD

 

[Lottie]

oh, that picture is extremely helpful, thank you!

 

[Gracie Lee]

Lady Day, what book is that? I think I need a copy!

 

[zetwal]

I found this Día de los Muertos fabric I loved and wanted to make something out of, so I decided to make another "Walk Away" dress out of it and some plain black cotton. I thought that a whole dress out of it would have maybe been too much?

I think that the way you used the fabric in moderation is outstanding!

 

[pixie]

Technically not sewing

Hi all, I have a non sewing question that I am hoping you can all help me with. I bought a vintage 50's crinoline that seems to be made out of the nylon like they used to make night gowns out of. It is soft and not scratchy like the modern crinolines. It is cream colored and i was wondering if I would be able to dye it black. I am just not sure if that type if fabric would hold the new color and I don't want to ruin it. Thanks for any help all.
Pixie

 

[Lady Day]

Nylon is a natural fiber and takes dye well. Ive dyed some nylon stockings with good success. Use liquid dye (not powder) and use hot water NOT boiling or near boiling.

Gracie Lee, here is the book I referenced.

You can typically find one on eBay now and then for $15 - $20.

LD

 

[Gracie Lee]

Totally just snagged a copy from evilbay for less than $10 including shipping! Thanks LD!

 

[Tourbillion]

Hi, I'm new but I've been lurking for a while! I have a couple questions that hopefully haven't been answered. I've read quite a few pages on this thread but haven't gotten to all them. Alright, here goes:

How do you end/tie/finish the threads at the end of gathers? I am working on a 40s dress where there is just a small section of gathers. Do I take the thread through a needle and pull it to the back? The pattern instructions don't really say anything about it!

Next question! I want to use the fabric shown below (hopefully it shows correctly) for my next dress but I'm not quite sure how to lay the pattern out on it - what I mean is do I need to pull it a little snug or even taut or do I just pin it to the fabric as-is? I would see that messing with the integrity of the pattern piece's shape... I'm really not sure though.

Also, could anyone tell me from the picture what type of fabric this is? I buy my fabric at a sort of thrift store and I'm pretty new to sewing so I don't have a lot of know-how with fabrics.

Whew, sorry for the long-winded post and thanks for checking out my questions. You ladies make some really beautiful things and have definitely been a big part of my inspiration to start sewing a vintage-inspired wardrobe!

Thanks,
Nancy

You should iron the fabric first (not too hot, and with steam if possible), but you pin it to the fabric wrinkles and all. The dress may be a little more stretchy because of the wrinkles, so you may have to take it in if it is too big. I made some 40's shorts out of a crinkle solid, and they didn't stretch out though.

As for the content, crinkle fabrics are commonly made in polyester and rayon or a combination of the two. Silk is a possibility too, but unlikely considering your source. I guess there could be some cotton in there too. I would assume poly-rayon blend, but you can't be sure without a burn test.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

Nylon is a natural fiber and takes dye well. Ive dyed some nylon stockings with good success. Use liquid dye (not powder) and use hot water NOT boiling or near boiling.



LD

Sorry, but nylon is not a natural fiber.

"Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as polyamides, first produced on February 28, 1935 by Wallace Carothers at DuPont. Nylon is one of the most commonly used polymers."


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon


It dyes better then some other man made fibers, but it is not natural.

 

[Scarlet Belle]

Any of you dolls made any of the Vogue vintage repro patterns?

Im yet to give one a go & would love to hear your experiences with them. Are they tough to follow? How did the finished product look? What sort of fabric did you use?

And so the questions go on!! lol

**** Oopsie daisy! I just noticed another thread on things you have all made. I'll just teeter over to there and have a look!****

 

[Lady Day]

Okay, I was wrong. It happens. I didnt mean to upset you.

I was thinking rayon, duh me!

LD

Sorry, but nylon is not a natural fiber.

"Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers known generically as polyamides, first produced on February 28, 1935 by Wallace Carothers at DuPont. Nylon is one of the most commonly used polymers."


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon


It dyes better then some other man made fibers, but it is not natural.

 

[Laughing Magpie]

I bought a vintage 50's crinoline that seems to be made out of the nylon like they used to make night gowns out of. It is soft and not scratchy like the modern crinolines. It is cream colored and i was wondering if I would be able to dye it black. I am just not sure if that type if fabric would hold the new color and I don't want to ruin it.
Pixie

The best sort of dye for nylon is an "acid dye" - it's not a scary sort of acid, it's just a sort of dye that likes to have a slightly acidic pH in the dye bath (which you do by putting some vinegar in).

Grocery store dyes may well do the trick for you, but just in case they don't, keep the acid dyes in mind. Acid dyes work very well on silk, feathers and wool too (animal protein based fibers).

Here are some examples of Acid Dyes at Dharma Trading

 

[palespider]

can satain charmeuse be used as a pencil skirt material or would it be too thin and thought of as tacky?

 

[kamikat]

It's generally too thin and too soft. Charmeuse is usually for nightgowns, linings, bias-cut evening gowns.

 

[palespider]

thank you! i got six yard (mostly because im compulsive) and it was under a dollar a yard and now im kinda scratching my head.

 

[kamikat]

thank you! i got six yard (mostly because im compulsive) and it was under a dollar a yard and now im kinda scratching my head.

It would make a great nightgown or a soft, drapey blouse.

 

[MirandaFern]

The best sort of dye for nylon is an "acid dye" - it's not a scary sort of acid, it's just a sort of dye that likes to have a slightly acidic pH in the dye bath (which you do by putting some vinegar in).

Grocery store dyes may well do the trick for you, but just in case they don't, keep the acid dyes in mind. Acid dyes work very well on silk, feathers and wool too (animal protein based fibers).

Here are some examples of Acid Dyes at Dharma Trading

I highly recommend the jacquard line of acid dyes. I've had really great results with them in the past.
http://www.jacquardproducts.com/products/dyes/aciddye/

 

[Tourbillion]

palespider, since you have six yards, an evening dress is also a possibility, maybe something 30's?

If you want to make it into a skirt, try something fuller, such as a-line, soft gathers or circle.