Resize both up and down

[PHIL1959]

Finding out your correct hat size then sticking to it helps and saves money!
try finding a proper hat store.
when I first caught the bug, i bought a wool hat size 57.it fitted first time on, then got it wet in the rain, it then felt tight! (before i found out about wool shrinking!)
i then spent a fortune buying a fur felt hat in size 58. it was huge!! even with padding.
i now only buy fur felt size 57 hats. trouble is, you then go through the 'what colour suits me best' stage combined with-what brim size suits me best, then what crease! I used to hate bound brims, now I love them.
its madness I say, just madness,
ha,ha...

 

[tonyb]

Welcome to the wonderful world of trying to figure out if a hat you are buying over the Internet will be close enough to your size to be wearable.

Vintage hats are particularly challenging. Not only were sizes inconsistent from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even within a single product line, consider that a hat half a century or more old has been subjected to Lord knows what that might affect its size. Perhaps it's been stretched a bit, or perhaps the sweatband has shrunk. Or ...

How much resizing a hat can handle depends to a large degree on how much trouble you wish to go to. The hat can be taken apart and reblocked and relflanged and put back together, perhaps with a new or resized sweatband. But that might cost more than you paid for the hat in the first place.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

considering resizing a nice stetson fur felt, what are the options to bring it from a 7 1/2 to a 7 3/8,,, with out wrinkling the leather band, and or stressing out the stitching, thanks

 

[Wesslyn]

Honestly, probably putting some sizers in the sweatband and wearing the hell out of it. After a lot of wear, it will conform to your head a bit better.
Or if you're feeling brave you can leave it on the dash of your car on a hot day.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

i was considering spraying distilled water heavily arounf the ouside of the crown and letting it dry in my house, some say lamp but thats a tad too risky, i have had fur felts shrink just from leaving it on a hat rack

 

[moontheloon]

it is not the felt that shrinks it is the sweatband

if the felt shrinks you will be left with a tapered sort of rumpled hat with a wonky brim

do not attempt to shrink the felt ... that is not what you are after

and if you try to shrink the sweatband you are risking it not only drying out but wrinkling up and becoming very uncomfortable

put about a 2 inch piece of reduction tape under the sweat at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock and see how it feels

either reduction tape or get a hat that fits

 

[sola fide]

Hello all,
I keep asking myself, "What would they do in 38(mostly referenced to my 38 Chevrolet)?" I thought I wore a 7 1/8, purchased a decent condition Stetson St Regis gray/black band 7 1/8 fit perfect. I followed with a 7 1/8 black Stetson homburg(curled brim) that seemed a bit snug. I used my trusty hat stretcher to the sounds of popping thread. After a visit to a hat shop, the shop owner pulled the sweatband tearing what was still hanging on to sell me a band and installation. I really like love the look of the homburg with curled brim. I purchased a band that is 7 1/4(perfect) and i will sew in myself(hopefully avoid removing band). *The question is, "What is the consensus view on removing original sweat bands, stretching and installing new?" I have a nearly perfect Stratoliner, I really like, but too small. I think i will remove the original band, stretch and install my size. Finding a Stratoliner my size is far more expensive than i'm willing to pay. Thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hello all,
I keep asking myself, "What would they do in 38(mostly referenced to my 38 Chevrolet)?" I thought I wore a 7 1/8, purchased a decent condition Stetson St Regis gray/black band 7 1/8 fit perfect. I followed with a 7 1/8 black Stetson homburg(curled brim) that seemed a bit snug. I used my trusty hat stretcher to the sounds of popping thread. After a visit to a hat shop, the shop owner pulled the sweatband tearing what was still hanging on to sell me a band and installation. I really like love the look of the homburg with curled brim. I purchased a band that is 7 1/4(perfect) and i will sew in myself(hopefully avoid removing band). *The question is, "What is the consensus view on removing original sweat bands, stretching and installing new?" I have a nearly perfect Stratoliner, I really like, but too small. I think i will remove the original band, stretch and install my size. Finding a Stratoliner my size is far more expensive than i'm willing to pay. Thoughts or suggestions appreciated. View attachment 111393 View attachment 111394 View attachment 111395 View attachment 111396

Unless you’re talking about a museum piece, I say replace the sweat. It can be sad to lose all the old markings, but if you are a “wearer” rather than a collector why not? I’ve ruined my share of sweats using a hat stretcher and bought other hats where the sweats were rotten. I’ve replaced several on vintage hats and thereby kept them in the rotation.

As a side note: I’ve since stopped buying undersized hats with the intention of stretching them to fit. The most I do these days is take a standard oval to a long oval.

 

[sola fide]

Unless you’re talking about a museum piece, I say replace the sweat. It can be sad to lose all the old markings, but if you are a “wearer” rather than a collector why not? I’ve ruined my share of sweats using a hat stretcher and bought other hats where the sweats were rotten. I’ve replaced several on vintage hats and thereby kept them in the rotation.

As a side note: I’ve since stopped buying undersized hats with the intention of stretching them to fit. The most I do these days is take a standard oval to a long oval.

I agree 100%, i would not buy undersized to stretch, but collected a few not knowing my size. My most recent buy is a Mallory Duraflet that looks like a 30s style tall crown in size 7 1/4(perfect fit) I know now, but have to modify what i have versus trying to replace in my size

 

[Babbo Philipe]

i dont think sewing a new band will be easy at all, , i gave up on resizing myself,i just buy the right hat, , mostly a little bigger ,they end up shrinking a little anyways, just because it says 7 1/2 does not mean it is, honestly I dont think there is anyone who can make the perfect size, there are too many variables , what i did was buy an old good named hat for nothing and trimmed it down to 2 1/2 and steamed it to shape

 

[Redfokker]

i dont think sewing a new band will be easy at all, , i gave up on resizing myself,i just buy the right hat, , mostly a little bigger ,they end up shrinking a little anyways, just because it says 7 1/2 does not mean it is, honestly I dont think there is anyone who can make the perfect size, there are too many variables , what i did was buy an old good named hat for nothing and trimmed it down to 2 1/2 and steamed it to shape

This is a good argument for having a custom made. Mike Miller of NW Hats has my exact size, with all it's quirks on file, an absolute perfect fit every time.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

custom made is a "way", one way , but many good hats are out there one just has to try on many of the same size as to find that perect fit, also head shape comes into play too, i have found when i get my hat fully wet on the outside it shapes to my head and every hour or so i refit it and the head shape comes to full shape, many good hats on used on ebay, one just has to know what brands work for that person--- my custom hat above is 5xxxxx fur, thick and sweet and soft, i have 3 from the same company, one of the bst hatter in the USA years ago Beaver brand

 

[deadlyhandsome]

This is a good argument for having a custom made. Mike Miller of NW Hats has my exact size, with all it's quirks on file, an absolute perfect fit every time.

I here you Mike. Gannon makes mine in 61.5 long oval and the fit is perfect. When buying vintage I have to factor in blocking, maybe a new sweat, etc., and still not getting a hat that fits as well as a custom. I chase vintage hats pretty hard, but in the larger sizes custom is sometimes the only way to go. Now if Mike at NW would move me up in his queue....

 

[deadlyhandsome]

custom made is a "way", one way , but many good hats are out there one just has to try on many of the same size as to find that perect fit, also head shape comes into play too, i have found when i get my hat fully wet on the outside it shapes to my head and every hour or so i refit it and the head shape comes to full shape, many good hats on used on ebay, one just has to know what brands work for that person--- my custom hat above is 5xxxxx fur, thick and sweet and soft, i have 3 from the same company, one of the bst hatter in the USA years ago Beaver brand

At larger sizes vintage hats can be hard to find. I have some Beaver Brand hats and they are nice, but in my opinion do not compare to quality custom beaver hats offered at reasonable prices by modern hatters.


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[Redfokker]

At larger sizes vintage hats can be hard to find. I have some Beaver Brand hats and they are nice, but in my opinion do not compare to quality custom beaver hats offered at reasonable prices by modern hatters.


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+1 true dat!

 

[Babbo Philipe]

if i was a avid fedora wearer, of course i would have custom hats made, i love hats ----i dont think there would be any doubt, but my only needs for the fedora side is my "flip", for moods --wide brimmed outdoor, and a black outdoor for rain camping etc, my usual "go to" hats are berets and beanies

 

[RJR]

At larger sizes vintage hats can be hard to find. I have some Beaver Brand hats and they are nice, but in my opinion do not compare to quality custom beaver hats offered at reasonable prices by modern hatters.


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Agreed.