Regius Made Leather Jacket

[Aloysius]

Did you dye the zips yourself? How did you do it?

Besides, on a completely off the subject question, where do you manage to mine your deadstock stuff? I wanna find a nice pin buckle to use on a half belt

I saw a terrifying attempt at zip dyeing here once. Someone had gotten a NOS 1940s Crown or something then covered it with smudgy marker. I turned into that wincing meme.

 

[Marc mndt]

Did you dye the zips yourself? How did you do it?

They're untouched, still brown. They match the color of the pocket lining

Besides, on a completely off the subject question, where do you manage to mine your deadstock stuff? I wanna find a nice pin buckle to use on a half belt

Etsy

https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Leathe...ount&listing_id=740450506&search_query=Buckle

 

[Johnny Deadlifts]

They're untouched, still brown. They match the color of the pocket lining

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Etsy

https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Leathe...ount&listing_id=740450506&search_query=Buckle

Did you do the corduroy for all the pockets? I was unsure when Regius suggested it for mine but I love the feel of it; very comfortable and warm.

 

[Marc mndt]

Did you do the corduroy for all the pockets?

Yep. My Thedi jackets have corduroy lined pockets as well so I already knew how comfortable they feel

 

[58panheadfan]

Reginald went above and beyond to get those pleats absolutely perfect. The first iterations he flattened the tube from top to bottom. Then he noticed that the originals had the pleats folded towards the side panels so he redid them that way. He still wasn't happy because the pleats were totally straight yet the originals had a slight bend towards the top, like flames. So he redid them once more folding the pleats towards the side panels but this time only flattening the base and not the top, creating a more playful look than the perfectly straight pleats.

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Admittedly I'm not a fan of these Logan's claws pleats (maybe they look better if they're flattened due some wear, as seen on originals, or you can hammer it down to speed up the process, lol) the heavy leather isn't my thing either, but I can say a fantastic jacket in terms of workmanship and materials used, congratulations to you both.

Edit:@Marc mndt
You have acquired a considerable collection of excellent jackets in no time. Now it's time to take stock, smile...
I'd like to hear from you which three jackets you would call the top three and why. I only refer to reproductions (regius, fl, thedi etc.) I'm not interested in the originals and no relation to the fit (because this is a spec thing) just craftsmanship & materials... would be cool to hear from you, thank you!

 

[Marc mndt]

Ever since I got into this hobby I loved the design of this '30s /'40s Californian Mfg.Co aviator. I've seen a couple in brown goatskin and some in black horsehide. Some with longer body lengths but most are fairly short. Unfortunately I've never been able to find an original in my size. Therefore I really had just one option which was to have one reproduced.

Last year we've seen Reginald make a couple of amazing repro's which absolutely stand out in terms of craftsmanship but even more important, they stand out in terms of fit. His jackets don't look like modern reproductions (which often come with narrow sleeves and shoulders), they look like the real deal.

Lucky for me Regius was interested in reproducing the California mfg aviator for me, it turned out it is a design he really likes himself. Totally up his alley.

This was not an easy jacket to make. Reginald worked lots of long nights to fine tune the pattern. It was especially challenging to get the shape of the collar and lapels right but also the shape and curvature of the sleeve. Het made numerous test sleeves and at least three full leather test jackets (of which he shipped the first one to me).

For me personally this was the most fun custom project I've ever done. Reginald spots each and every detail and is almost obsessive in reproducing those details exactly like the original. Moreover, he likes to add interesting details which he has seen on vintage jackets he owned.

Enough said, I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking.

This is the first test jacket, you can see the collar, lapels and sleeves needed adjusting.

The final result

 

[Marc mndt]

 

[Will Zach]

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This looks straight out of some old catalogue. You are right, this is not some modern repro, this is Good Wear-level faithful recreation.

 

[Johnny Deadlifts]

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Beautifully made jacket Marc, fits perfectly, looks robust but comfortable. Bravo @regius

 

[Nacho]

Ever since I got into this hobby I loved the design of this '30s /'40s Californian Mfg.Co aviator. I've seen a couple in brown goatskin and some in black horsehide. Some with longer body lengths but most are fairly short. Unfortunately I've never been able to find an original in my size. Therefore I really had just one option which was to have one reproduced.

Last year we've seen Reginald make a couple of amazing repro's which absolutely stand out in terms of craftsmanship but even more important, they stand out in terms of fit. His jackets don't look like modern reproductions (which often come with narrow sleeves and shoulders), they look like the real deal.

Lucky for me Regius was interested in reproducing the California mfg aviator for me, it turned out it is a design he really likes himself. Totally up his alley.

This was not an easy jacket to make. Reginald worked lots of long nights to fine tune the pattern. It was especially challenging to get the shape of the collar and lapels right but also the shape and curvature of the sleeve. Het made numerous test sleeves and at least three full leather test jackets (of which he shipped the first one to me).

For me personally this was the most fun custom project I've ever done. Reginald spots each and every detail and is almost obsessive in reproducing those details exactly like the original. Moreover, he likes to add interesting details which he has seen on vintage jackets he owned.

Enough said, I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking.

This is the first test jacket, you can see the collar, lapels and sleeves needed adjusting.

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The final result

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This is tremendous. This jacket is surely one hell of a thing, ain't it? Wow, just wow.

 

[tweedydon]

I've been reading this whole thread, just smiling with sheer joy at the artistry. Just fantastic!!

 

[jeo]

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Congrats on a spectacular jacket and fit! Reg really nailed the collar. The lining looks really comfy too.

I must say, you’ve come a long way with your style. Perhaps you haven’t gone full vintage but you most certainly look it in this fit. Boots are really cool too man, very unique.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Absolutely amazing! I love the jacket and the incredible detailing that went into this project!

 

[jauregui]

Just excellent work.

 

[jauregui]

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How thick is the leather? Is it from the 1881 HO line?

 

[Marc mndt]

How thick is the leather? is it from the 1881 HO line?

Yep, it's Hermann Oak Heritage 1881 steerhide, skived down to 1,7 mm.

 

[jauregui]

That is a nice thickness. I was wondering does it feel dense? How heavy is the jacket? Love that deep brown. I better get in line before they sell out on that color. Lastly, how would you compare it with a Horween CXL?

 

[TartuWolf]

You are an inspiration in terms of taste, style and fit alike. Congratulations on this masterpiece @Marc mndt and @regius !

 

[Marc mndt]

I must say, you’ve come a long way with your style. Perhaps you haven’t gone full vintage but you most certainly look it in this fit. Boots are really cool too man, very unique.

Thanks bud, I finally realized that vintage style jackets and low rise slim fit jeans aren't the best match lol.

I found these button boots on my recent trip to Japan. They're from a maker called Chausser. Their shoes and boots are a bit more dressy than boots from makers like Brass Tokyo, The Boots Shop (Rolling Dub Trio) Skoob or what have you.

That is a nice thickness. I was wondering does it feel dense? How heavy is the jacket? Love that deep brown. I better get in line before they sell out on that color. Lastly, how would you compare it with a Horween CXL?

The jacket weights 2,8 kg which is about 6.2 lbs according to Google. The temper is comparable to thick deerskin but slightly denser. Horween CXL is very stiff and waxy, this is not that.

Out of the box the HO doesn't have much color depth. I think the color depth will get better with wear as the naked hide will absorb oils and fats but I'm impatient so I gave it a coat of clear Urad to instantly enhance the color depth.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Marc mndt Looks great. Awesome project.

But wait, so your jacket is dark brown (brown with Urad coating) and not black Hermann Oak right? I got in the queue for the natural one. Can't wait to check out this hide in person.